Cartier

Salon Belles Montres 2013: Cartier

 

Cartier was one of the main exhibiting brands at the 2013 Salon Belles Montres. It is not a surprise since this presence is the proof of the strategy of the brand based on an enlarged network of boutiques in Paris (the boutique located boulevard des Capucines opened its doors in August) and on a new line more affordable, the Tank MC, which takes advantage of in-house movements. It was for me a great opprtunity to have a global view of the current collection a few weeks before the SIHH which, rumors say, will be very promising for Cartier.

So when I reached the Salon on Saturday Morning, I decided to go directly to the Cartier booth to be able to spend time with the staff and to handle the timepieces before the more crowded hours. I was perfectly welcomed by the Cartier lady: I could see a large range of watches from the entry level to the superlative pieces of the high horology segment. This wide range shows that Cartier is now a very comprehensive manufacture, able to produce watches dedicated to a large number of customers or to a very few collectors looking for exceptional complications or alternative time displays. With this report, I wish to quickly give you an idea of this diversity. It is the reason why there is no specific order in this report... after all, each and every watch embodies the Cartier style and plays a key role in the strategy, having its own mission and its own targetted clients.

Before browsing the watches, please find below two pictures of the booth:








Let's start with the Rotonde Reversed Tourbillon.

This watch is a perfect example of the imagination of the watchmaking designers from Cartier. You take the movement 9452MC, you redesign it in order to "reverse" one full section of it an you skeletonize this visible section. The result is a very unusual watch which is at the same time very classic and contemporary.



I appreciate two details on this watch:

- the flying tourbillon obviously which is clearly visible and which brings its mesmerizing touch on the dial
- the barrel bridge which manages to make this part nice... what is far from being the case every time!

Another interesting point about this watch is its unbalanced "dial" (or I would prefer to say: front view). In a sense, it makes me think about a Rotonde Mystery but with a movement inside the mysterious section. There is a great aesthetic effect between the complex and delicate movement parts  and the almost rigid and strict lines of the big figures around. Without any doubt this watch has a lot of character!

Obviously, due to the architecture of the movement, the caseback is not as interesting even if Cartier worked on the plate to decorate it with Côtes de Geneve. I think that a solid caseback would have been a better option. The good point is the diameter of the plate which at least, fills almost the full space. The movement has a 3hz frequency and a power reserve of around 50 hours.

The Rotonde Reversed Tourbillon on the wrist. The watch is very large (46,2mm) and this diameter enhances the off-centered location of the movement dial side. Even if it is not my fav Cartier of this high-end segment, I was seduced by its character and its unusual lay-out.

Shall I need to introduce the Rotonde Mysterious Double Tourbillon? This watch was one of the stars of the latest SIHH!

I could spend hours watching the behaviour of the Tourbillon which seems to float in the air! You really look for the trick! But you know, it is like magic... the most important is the outcome, the visual effect!

This watch has a 45mm diameter. But this time the size is not a problem since it allows to fully enjoy the Tourbillon. I love of course its revolution, its evolution... but also the way it is designed. I think that this watch offers the best of Cartier: a perfect watchmaking technique which purpose is to create an emotion.

The time display is located on top of the dial. I mention  it because we tend to forget it, totally focused on the Tourbillon! Did you notice the secret signature on one bar of the IX figure?

The movement is the 9454 MC with a 3hz frequency and a power reserve of around 52 hours. It is interesting to see that when we turn the watch over, the Tourbillon section is also nice to observe from this perspective...

Missing the Crash would have been a big mistake if not a fault!

I think that I already wrote several times that the Crash is amongst my top 3 Ladies' watches! This new version of the Crash, proposed in a context of a LE, has kept all the charm of the original watch created in 1967.

The watch is powered by the handwind movement 8970MC. I can imagine the pleasure to wind such watch every morning for the lucky owner! I was so happy to see this watch that I shot it upside down...

Anyway, when it comes to the wristshot, the Crash finds again its right position! I think that the Cartier lady was very happy to put it on her wrist!

Let's go back to the Men's watches with another SIHH 2013 piece.

The Rotonde Mystery belongs to the category of the intriguing watches with its unusual time display and its large figures. The case has a 42mm diameter but I has the feeling that the watch is bigger. It is maybe due to the dial lay-out.

For obvious reasons (the crown being located on the right), the time display is located on the left side of the dial which can be a "small problem" if you wear the watch on the left wrist: you have to move the shirt to read the time display.

The watch looks simple at first glance...

There is no secret signature here! The Cartier written in a bar of the III is mainly the way to display the brand name: a nice detail.

As I said before, the watch looks simple but it is not! The movement 9981 MC, with a frequency of 3hz and a power reserve of 48 hours is not only very original. It is also very nicely decorated. Cartier had to optimize the use of each mm available.

I love the sunrays finishings, the details, the moving parts... this Rotonde Mystery is one of the most charming watches of the current collection.

The Tortue XXL Multiple Time Zones is a watch dedicated to the travelers. It is full of ingenious and clever details.

Look at the dial, don't you have the feeling to have the world on your wrist?

The multi-layer dial is perfectly finished to allow us to travel in our head, at least over the Atlantic Ocean!

The 2 main hands are dedicated to the display of the local time while the 24-hours hand is used to display "home time".

The beauty of the dial:

On this picture, you can observe the different layers of the dial. The feeling of depth it creates is for me the biggest asset of this watch.

The watch is powered by the the movement 9914 MC which has a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of 48 hours. It is decorated with care but I don't have the same pleasure than with the dial side.

The lateral disk is very useful: it makes the dial less busy and the Tortue XXL easier to use when changing the time zone.

The Tortue XXL Multiple Time Zones is a big watch with a 51mm x 45,6mm size. Due to its shape, it looks very big and thick (17,2mm) on the wrist. Without any doubt, this Tortue is not for small boys! The lateral window requires a thick case and it is the reason why the use of the Tortue case was the best option. But I would love to see the dial in another context (Rotonde?).

The Santos Dumont Skeleton Watch is another example of the use of the 9611 MC movement.

I presented with details the Tank MC powered by the same movement several months ago. After having handled this Santos Dumont, I think that I prefer the movement in this context.

A superb work on the movement. The figures are drawn by the movement itself:

The watch embodies a very contemporary design without losing the Cartier roots and inspiration.The case size is 38,7 x 47,4mm and I found the watch balanced and well proportioned on my wrist.

A flawless execution of the movement. It has a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of 72 hours.

With this Santos Dumont Skeleton, Cartier manages to combine technical and aesthetic approaches.

I would like to finish the report with the new Tank MC which was unveiled after the SIHH.

The MC line enlarges the offer of the Tank collection with a design maybe more masculine but with sensual curves at the same time.

The subdial of the second hand gives a clue about the use of the caliber 1904PS MC movement: I find a little touch of the Calibre style in this Tank MC.

The 1904PS MC movement  has a 4hz frequency with a power reserve of 72 hours. I remind you that it is a very important caliber for Cartier since it powers maybe the two most important watches to support Cartier ambition: the Calibre automatic and this Tank MC.

It is not a pure beauty and I would have loved to see more refined details and a better perceived quality. But on the other hand, it was developed with two main objectives: realiability and efficiency. And it achieves them.

With a 34,3 x 44mm size, the Tank MC is not a small watch but when put on my wrist, I was seduced by its balance. I consider it as one of the best options to enter Cartier world.

From the Tank MC to the Rotonde Mysterious Double Tourbillon, I wished to give you an overview of the current Cartier collection. Despite big differences in complications and in prices, all these watches share in common the same care to details and the specific Cartier style.

I would like to thank a lot the Cartier team for the warm welcome at the Salon Belles Montres.

Fr.Xavier