Cartier

My view on the Cartier Tank MC line

 

As promised, here are my own feelings about the different Cartier Tank MC.

Actually, I had the chance to shoot them today. But I will be frank with you: they were very difficult to shoot. Why? Simply because the shapes and curves of the cases combined with the polished parts create a kind of mirror effect whatever the position you choose to shoot the watches. Anyway, I tried to do my best and the most important is to be able to deliver you fresh pictures, right from the oven.

I contacted Cartier because these Tank MC were not presented at the SIHH. It doesn't mean that they are not important watches in the collection. It is totally the opposite. The decision to release them in June is the proof that Cartier wished to dedicate them all the emphasis they deserve. They symbolize a key addition to the Tank collection. As you know, before this introduction, the Tank collection was made of 5 lines:

- The Tank Anglaise we can recognize easily with its integrated crown
- The Tank Louis Cartier, the thin and the most elegant line
- The Tank Americaine with its very rectangular case
- The Tank Française which features a bracelet
- And the Tank Solo, the sober line.

So we can add a new line which can be characterized by:

- its case shape of 44mm x 34,3mm which is closer to a square than any other Tank (the Skeleton Watch case is even very similar to a square with a 43,9mm x 39,10mm dimension)
- the use of Manufacture Cartier movements including the superb skeleton movement, the 9611 MC.

Even if there are several versions of the Tank MC, we can divide into 3 parts the line:

- the SS versions
- the PG versions
- the Skeleton watch in palladium

The first two versions are powered by the first movement produced by Manufacture Cartier, the 1904 MC. It is a famous movement because it operates the Calibre and in a sense, the watch name was given to celebrate this first caliber.

It is an automatic movement with a power reserve of 48 hours. This power reserve may appear to be short despite the use of two barrels but their goal is to achieve the best torque and a constant behaviour for an optimized accuracy. The movement is more impressive in terms of technical finishings than of decorative ones. I think it should need some more refined details to improve the perceived quality. It is a bit a pity because Cartier is totally focused on a high quality approach whose goal is to reduce dramatically the failure rate. And if Cartier is currently one of the top Manufactures in this perspective, it is due to a very clever and advanced conception of the movements. The 1904 MC is totally in coherence with this strategy.

I'm happy to see the 1904 MC in another context than the Calibre and I must confess that Cartier managed to integrate it in a rectangular watch which is not so obvious.

The SS and PG versions have a 9,5mm thickness which creates a good overall balance: the watch is not too thin or too thick due to its case size and shape.

The dial features the classic Cartier figures and railroad along with a guillochage. At the beginning, I was not very seduced by the presence of the date window even if for commercial reasons, I understood the choice to insert one. After having spent one hour with these watches, it was less problematic. I found it well integrated and Cartier took the right decision to use the same date disk color than the dial. So this date is almost fading...

When I turned over the watches, I discovered the movement 1904 MC in its new context. And finally, I was quite convinced by the way it is displayed. Cartier designed a square "frame" to host it and so the see-through caseback is squared. The visual effect is nice and from this issue (the use of a round movement in a rectangular case), Cartier found a very satisfying solution. When I observe the caseback, I have the feeling that the watch is a perfect square. A well-done visual effect.

Obviously, the same topic remains: I would have been happy to see a more refined decoration of the movement, at least for the PG version. The difference between the price tags should have justified a more exclusive decoration with the PG version.


Here are the pictures of the PG version, with the black flinqué dial:

Don't you have the feeling that the second hand subdial is very "Calibre"?

The 1904 MC in its new context:

As I wrote before, the outcome is very convincing due to the different constraints. The see-through caseback is justified here.

The shape of the case-side.

The Tank MC case is more complex than we may think. It alternates brushed and polished parts, curved and straight lines. It is a big asset for this watch. The octogonal crown is set with a sapphire while the SS version crown is set with a spinel.

The watch is very comfortable on the wrist. The Cartier folding clasp system, even if it is painful for me to handle it (I'm not very gifted with this Cartier system!), allows very precise settings. So small or large wrists would welcome the watch without any big problem. Of course, the size is quite large, we are talking here about a 44mmx34,3mm case but the designers did a great job. The curved case-sides define a refined atmosphere and their thickness reduce the feeling of size. The dial opening is clearly rectangular and I like this mix of shapes, of proportions.

As you can see, the date window is not shocking:

PG is a perfect material for this kind of watch. But I think that thanks to its entry level price and at the end, the very slight difference of quality (if we forget the crown), the SS version could be the best option.


Both watches together:

The silvered flinqué dial uses blued hands. The guillochage becomes more visible while it is more subtle with the black dial:

Again, the date window is well integrated on the dial:

The same 1904 MC movement:

A closer look on the dial:

A similar feeling on the wrist, the watch is comfortable and has a good presence without being too big.

Let's change the category now. Let's enter another dimension.

The Tank MC Skeleton Watch in Palladium is a superb timepiece. It gathers all what I expect from the Cartier Manufacture:

- an original movement lay-out
- some Cartier details which evoke the DNA of the brand
- a daring style which is at the same time refined

If you loved the Santos Skeleton but you found it too big (which was my case...), this Tank MC Skeleton is for you!

If you remember well, the Santos Skeleton in Palladium has a 46,5mm x 54,9mm case which is huge in my point of view. The non-round cases increase the feeling of size.

The Tank MC Skeleton has a 43,9mm w 39,1mm case and you clearly feel the difference.

With this Tank MC, you have the ability to enjoy the beautiful lay-out of the squared 9611 MC movement in a more subtle and refined atmosphere.

I was totally under the charm of this watch which has something aerial.

I like the contrast between the straight lines which create the big figures and the wheels and parts beneath them.

The balance incabloc is visible, maybe I would have preferred to hide it.
 

The movement is really spectacular on the bridges side. It is beautiful not only due to its flawless finishings but also due to its architecture.

A feast for the eyes:

The movement has a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of 3 days. Winding it is a nice experience since you are able to see what's going on when you wind it.

I was a bit afraid of the "hair effect" which occurs with Skeleton watch. Surprisingly enough, the wrist hair is not that visible. Good point!

What a pleasure to wear this superb watch. I have all what Cartier wants to achieve on the wrist...

When originality meets elegance...

I was difficult for me to give it back to the Cartier team!

Obviously, we are not in the same price range than the other two watches. But these 3 timepieces manage to build all together a coherent and seducing new Tank line.

SS/PG versions:

Pros:

+ a refined case with nice details
+ size is balanced and I appreciate this step towards smaller case
+ a good integration of the 1904 MC movement
+ date window is discreet
+ the fine setting of the folding clasp

- decorative finishings of the movement are too shy
- the difference of price tags between the versions would have justified superior movement finishings for the PG version: I don't understand the difference of price. A positive point for the SS version at the end.
- the folding clasp system when you are not used with it and I think it twits too much the leather strap


Skeleton in Palladium version:

Pros:

+ a superb movement in terms of architecture or of finishings
+ the pleasure to enjoy it in a smaller case than the Santos Skeleton
+ a subtle mix of originality and of elegance
+ the feeling to face Cartier at its best

- the visible incabloc dial side
- the folding clasp for the same reasons than before

Thanks a lot to the Cartier France team for the time they spent with me today.

Fx

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