Vintage
SJX presents an exclusive look at the Cartier Tank, tracing its nearly century-long evolution from 1920 to 2012. This comprehensive overview, featuring rare vintage pieces from the Cartier Collection, highlights the enduring design versatility and improved case construction of the Tank. His article offers a unique opportunity to appreciate the historical depth and continuous refinement of this iconic form watch.
The Cartier Tank is famous. It is arguably the most famous form watch in the world, and often cited as an iconic watch.
First conceived in 1917 by Louis Cartier, legend has it that the Tank was inspired by the tanks that first saw action during the First World War. 1919 was the year the Tank watch was sold commercially and over the next century the Tank has multiplied into dozens and dozens of forms, all different but easily recognisable.
2012 is a big year for the Tank for it saw the introduction of the newest member of the Tank family, the Tank Anglaise. This is the third major modern Tank model, following the Tank Americaine of 1989 (itself an evolution of the Tank Cintree) and the Tank Francaise of 1996.
Tank Anglaise XL
Actual photos of vintage Cartier watches from the Cartier Collection are nearly impossible to come by, since outsiders are rarely allowed to handle such watches.
But I am happy to present exclusive photos of 12 vintage Tanks (one or two are not formally Tanks), spanning nearly a century, from 1920 to 2002. All of these were on display at Cartier Time Art in Singapore which just closed.
These 12 watches demonstrate the versatility and durability of the Tank design.
As an aside, it's worth noting how case construction for watches in general has improved over the year which is well demonstrated by the Tanks. The design remained the same but the case got much better. The early Tanks were fragile and thin, some so thin that they are nearly impossible to polish. But the modern Tanks have far more robust construction, even when the cases are slim.
Tank Normale, Cartier Paris, c. 1920
Platinum, yellow gold, sapphire, leather strap
A classic Tank but tiny by today’s standards. It is about the same size as the folding buckle on the Santos 100.
Tank, Cartier Paris, c. 1921
Platinum, rose-cut diamonds, satin strap
Tank Louis Cartier, Cartier, c. 1925
Platinum, white gold, sapphire, leather strap
Tank Cintrée, Cartier London, c. 1929
Yellow gold, pink gold, sapphire, leather strap
Sold to Fred Astaire who presented it as a gift.
Tank Cintrée, Cartier Paris, c. 1924
Platinum, yellow gold, pink gold, sapphire, leather strap
Tank Chinoise, Cartier, c. 1930
Gold, sapphire, leather strap
Tank Normale, Cartier Paris, c. 1927
Platinum, pink gold, sapphire
Tank à guichets jumping hours, Cartier Paris, c. 1928
Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap
Sold to Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharajah of Patiala.
Tank with eight-day movement, Cartier, c. 1938
Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap
This is not strictly a Tank due to the case shape; the lugs have a sharp downward curve when viewed from the side. This is one of my favourites because it has an outstanding movement and also it is quite modern in size due to the large calibre.
Reversible “basculante” watch, Cartier Paris, c. 1936
Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap
Thought Cartier reissued the Tank Basculante in 2000, the original reversible form watch was not a Tank.
Tank Louis Cartier Noctambule, Cartier, c. 2006
Platinum, white gold, sapphire, leather strap
This was a piece unique made for the Cartier Collection. Unusually the bridges of the skeleton movement are coated with Luminova, though the hands are not.
Tank à vis, Cartier, c. 2002
Yellow gold, sapphire, leather strap
Part of the Collection Privee Cartier Paris, this Tank displays two independent time zones.
And 2012 sees the unveiling of the Tank Anglaise. Available only on bracelet and either of three colours of gold for now, though more models will certainly be added in the future. The Tank Anglaise is not my cup of tea, but the heritage is unmistakeable. The Tank rolls on.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-25 05:22:47 This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-27 22:40:47 This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-03-02 20:13:20The Cartier Santos 100 was introduced in 2004 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the original Santos-Dumont watch. It represents a contemporary interpretation of the historic pilot's watch, featuring a larger and more robust case design compared to its predecessors. This model positioned itself as a sportier, more modern offering within the Santos collection, appealing to collectors seeking a bolder presence on the wrist while retaining the iconic square aesthetic.
The Santos 100 typically features a stainless steel or precious metal case, often with a brushed finish and polished bezel screws. Case dimensions vary, but common sizes include a large model around 51mm x 41mm. It is powered by an automatic mechanical movement, often a modified ETA caliber, providing reliable timekeeping. The crystal is usually sapphire, and water resistance is generally rated for daily wear.
For collectors, the Santos 100 is notable for its blend of heritage design with modern proportions and construction. It marked a significant update to the Santos line, moving towards a more substantial and contemporary aesthetic. Its robust build and versatile design made it a popular choice, bridging the gap between Cartier's dressier offerings and more overtly sporty watches.
Almost killed me; what a looker! Great post SJX, good to seeing all these vintage pieces. GEO
Inscribed "Felix from Fred '29" Fred is of course Fred Astaire. - SJX This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-25 23:31:54
who directed a few of Fred's performances. Regards, Richard.
Fred was a lot more famous than Felix, so he's the one remembered! - SJX
A beautiful iconic watch. Even though it could be said that today's models are lacking a little savoire faire in the craftsmanship of the movement. The style and iconic look of this watch is one that I will never tire of. A beautiful watch, that I would be proud to wear for its beauty and compliment-ry looks.
The bulk of the Fine Watchmaking range is not in the Tank case, save for the Tank tourbillon. Imagine a skeleton Tank, like the Santos Dumont skeleton? - SJX
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