Bulgari

tony p
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Requiem for a dream - Repost (2024)

With the recent demise of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth as independent brands (having been subsumed into Bulgari's
product range as "collections"), and the imminent launch of Baselworld 2010, I thought this might be an opportune moment
to review the final collection from each brand, revealed at Baselworld a year ago.

Next week we will find out whether the watches pictured here have survived with their designs relatively intact, or whether
Bulgari's management have decided to "harmonise" them - that is, iron out much of the quirkiness which gave GG (in
particular) its unique value proposition.


First up, Gérald Genta, who last year celebrated their 40th anniversary as a brand.

Gefica Safari with white dial and leather strap, limited edition of 100 pieces -








Also seen for the first time on a Gefica was a black rubber strap, with embossed "G" motif on its back surface -





A brace of Octo Biretros (I particularly like the Octo case in yellow gold, it's stunning) -





Octo Biretro in red gold -





Octo Retro Fantasy in red gold -








Actually I prefer the Mickey Navigator and Aviator watches to this one, as Mickey's hands were deployed to tell the time, which to me, is a feature all Mickey Mouse watches should have.





Note the red background to the hour markers - a cool reference to GG's "signature" colours of black and gold -





There's more Mickey-mania on the rotor of this watch -





The Octo Tourbillon Sunray in yellow gold -





The dial of this watch is particularly splendid, being composed of two superimposed gold plates on a black lacquer base, which "affords the sight of an unexpected solar eclipse" according to the GG press release. I'll take that under advisement.





The tourbillon pivots upon a sapphire bridge which creates the illusion that it is of the "flying" variety. The sapphire has been given an anti-UV treatment to prevent the tourby's lubricants from drying out -








The movement is finished, as with most GG watches, in an antique gold with perlage, referred to by GG as their "Potter finish". An interesting historical point is that GG were the first company to release a self-winding tourbillon movement in a wristwatch -





Octo Minute Repeater, available in white or red gold, with red or black lacquer dials engraved in white or red gold. Each combination constitutes a unique piece -








The movement bridge and rotor engravings are particularly daring and unusual on this watch -





Finally, the Arena Tourbillon in yellow gold with brushed tantalum bezel -








The materials, colours and finishes on this watch, combined with its futuristic dial design, are really quite spectacular. It would be an absolute showstopper on the wrist. I really do hope some of these were actually delivered - they will undoubtedly become hot collector's pieces in the future.








I was treated to an unexpected delight while preparing this report. On the GG Baselworld 2009 press CD, I discovered a hidden treasure in the form of a GG screensaver, which I immediately uploaded to my computer. Fantastic stuff!





And so to GG's more sedate sister company, Daniel Roth. Last year DR celebrated 20 years of existence - exactly half as old as GG.


Athys perpetual calendar in rose gold -








This has surely got to be one of the most stunning perpetual calendar wristwatches of all time. Will it see the light of day as a Bulgari? Let's hope so.








Athys Moon 2134 in white gold. The name is derived from the fact that the moonphase mechanism is so accurate that, once set, it will not require further adjustment until the year 2134. Assuming, of course, that you keep it wound up all that time -











The Moon 2134's movement is particularly beautiful. Its bridge configuration is so elegant, and I love this type of old-style finishing, with its combination of Geneva stripes and perlage -





Finally, the Endurer Chronosprint, which was a huge hit at Baselworld last year -





It was to be the first Daniel Roth in a stainless steel case (a material they had previously stated would never be used for a DR watch). This is the brushed Staybrite 4435 "marine" steel version -








The chronograph is a little unusual in that it measures only minutes and hours. This concept had been previously explored by Bell and Ross in its Minuteur -





Were any of these Endurers ever delivered? I'm not sure. Next week I imagine we'll find out whether the Endurer will be allowed to live up to its name, as a Bulgari...


Cheers
Tony P

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