2015 was an eventful year for Rolex. The release of the movement 3255 that powers the Day-Date 40 and the presentation of different versions of the Oyster Perpetual 39 are undoubtedly among these significant events. But we should not forget another novelty which drew the attention during the last edition of Baselworld: the introduction in the catalog of a variation of the Yacht-Master, available in two sizes, with an Everose gold case and an Oysterflex bracelet. It may be surprising to put at the same level of interest a new movement and a new bracelet. Yet, as often with Rolex, every detail is of importance and if we consider the Oysterflex bracelet as a simple rubber strap it would be a big mistake.
Moreover, the Yacht-Master 40 Everose is more than just a variation of an existing model. It embodies, in my opinion, a double strategic direction for Rolex. The first is inherent in the simultaneous presentation of the two sizes: 40 and 37mm. This may seem trivial but through this side by side display of the two watches, which offer the same balance (Rolex took care to not use the same movement in both cases), the same style, the same atmosphere, the brand directs its communication to the customers who buy watches with their spouses. Indeed, this clientele, particularly from Asia, practice quite often joint purchases with a tendency to take similar watches to celebrate a specific event. The Yacht-Master 40 Everose therefore has the objective to meet that kind of demand with very thoughtful sizes.
The 3mm gap between the two cases is significant and can be felt at first glance ... when both watches are together. However, taken independently, each watch retains its strengths regardless of its size. The 40mm version remains elegant, the black dial slightly decreasing the perceived size. As for the 37mm version, it has enough presence to adorn a lady's wrist or a small man's wrist with style and character
The second strategic direction that I feel has a more structuring for Rolex. The Yacht-Master 40 Everose with the renderings of the black Oysterflex bracelet, the Cerachrom insert of the bezel, the contrast between the dark and the polished finishes of the case, plays an unusual aesthetic score in the Rolex world. The Yacht-Master is an ideal watch for this type of development. It embodies with conviction the Sport Chic approach of the Oyster Perpetual, being comfortable in sports practice (supported by a waterproofness of 100 meters) or in more formal situations. Therefore, its versatility, both from the performance or aesthetic points of view, provides the perfect setting to develop these new textures that are appreciated both visually and to the touch.
My fear when I discover the announcement of the release of this Everose gold watch was it could fall in a too ostentatious style. Fortunately, it avoids this trap. The contrast between the black dial, bezel, bracelet and the Everose gold case is well controlled and it emerges from the watch a great elegance and a touch of refinement. It also has the right dose of relaxed atmosphere thanks to the bracelet whose three-dimensional shape brings a certain sophistication. As always with Rolex, the finishes are flawless with 3 key elements perfectly executed:
- the bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert (in ceramic)
- the case and the crown
- the pink gold hands and applied elements whose sharpness enhances the perceived quality, if it was necessary.
I like also much the contrast between the hands and the applied elements on one side and the matt black finish of the dial on the other. The legibility is great and in this dark environment, the Cyclops lens becomes more discreet.
Do you see the cushions on the bracelet inside?
The movement which powers the 40mm version is the famous caliber 3135, obviously certified chronometer, featuring a 4hz frequency and a two-day power reserve. It is a movement with a high efficiency and it is distinguished by its reliability, its precision and its winding performance. Unsurprisingly, I find again the transversal balance bridge, the balance wheel with 4 the Microstella screws and the in-house spiral in blue paramagnetic Parachrom and Breguet terminal curve. The 3135 movement belongs to the category of movements in which I have full confidence and I know I do not have to manually rotate the crown even if I wear the watch a few hours a day. The only complaint I could make about it is its a bit too short power reserve by today's standards but given the versatility of the watch, it is intended to remain for long periods on the wrist!
Time is coming to speak about the wearing comfort and without any surprise, it meets my expectation. This is where the complexity of Oysterflex strap comes into play. The goal of the bracelet is to combine the flexibility of a rubber strap while retaining the strength and ability to follow the curves of the wrist of a metal bracelet. The bracelet is constructed according to the following principle: a metal blade made of titanium and nickel alloy connects the case to the Oysterlock clasp for each bracelet part. The two blades are then molded in a high resistance black rubber which doesn't have any inopportune effect for the owner of the watch. This construction is completed for each part of the bracelet by cushions on the inside that enhance the stability of the watch on the wrist and allow the skin to "breathe" better. The Oysterlock folding clasp is the final touch of this complex bracelet which provides a great comfort and perfectly maintains the watch.
I really like the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose. Beyond its high respect of the Rolex quality standards and the perfect execution of the elements, I enjoyed this stylistic audacity materialized by the texture of the bracelet and the elegant and warm contrast between the case and the black elements. Yet, this boldness is obviously very controlled, "Rolex oblige", but it is nice to see because it brings new aesthetic perspectives. Far from being ostentatious, the Yacht-Master 40 Everose embodies instead a certain refinement. Nevertheless, the contrast between the Everose gold and the black areas remains quite difficult of access for clients looking for the absolute discretion. It is the reason why I hope this Yacht-Master 40 Everose becomes the starting point of a stylistic trend in the brand catalog which could be expanded with neutral colored materials. Anyway, customers' tastes evolve and they express the desire to discover new materials, new combinations, new textures. The Yacht-Master 40 Everose thus perfectly fulfills its mission by venturing on this more original territory while preserving the assets which make the Rolex strength.
Thanks to the Bucherer team of Paris.
Pros:
+ A welcomed aesthetic evolution
+ The quality of finishes and the perfect execution of the elements
+ The Seriousness and comfort of the Oysterflex bracelet
+ The performances of the movement 3135
Cons:
- A power reserve which is a bit too short by today's standards
- Even if the watch is not ostentatious, the contrast between black and Everose gold parts requires more effort to be appreciated