Miranda[PuristSPro Moderator]
5877
Patek Philippe: Baselworld 2017- A sensational Year
Mar 26, 2017,13:58 PM
This has an been an exceptional year...you could say a vintage for Patek Philippe. They have for sure some kind of horological black magic, as they have produced the most amazing novelties and have catered for everyone from vintage enthusiasts to this that crave technological advances.
I said this has been a vintage year, so the best place to start is with the incredible reference 5320. In this amazing perpetual calendar we see the classical rebirth of the vintage calendar display- one that is in my opinion the finest ever. The new model harks back to a golden era of such famous references as the 3448/3450. With a thoroughly vintage look its is for me in my top 3 of the whole fair.
The case is superbly finished and is crafted from a single block. The domed glass has a metal ring where it attaches to the case forming a seamless bond.
The dial and hands take their inspiration from a famous vintage steel perpetual.
Both the arabic numerals and hands are luminescent. The vintage look is complete with a beautiful creamy dial.
Next we have an update on the a famous Calatrava line that began with famous reference 5000 made in white gold with black in 1000 pieces.
The new reference 6006, celebrates 40 years of the inimitable cal 240. The new model in white gold is larger by 2mm and the date pointer now features a red tip for the date indicator. A wonderful piece of an iconic line.
The 5960 annual calendar chronograph received two updates this year- both I would say unexpected, but both stunning in every respect.
I start with the new 5960/01 in WG for the first time. Wow. A stunning mix of casual and elegance, with a touch of history. The guilloche pushers reminds us of the fabulous ref.1463 chronograph, The awesome calf strap add a wonderful casual touch and is supplied with a pilot style clasp. This really is just a wonderful example of timeless elegance. Another home run for Patek Philippe.
Then we have the steel 5960. Now presented with a black dial. The black dial lifts the 5960 to a whole new level of sportiness. The 5960 in steel is perhaps the best value for money you can have - Steel Patek's are rare, but steel Patek with a black dial...do I really need to say any more?
In 1997, Patek caused stir, the biggest rumbling since the advent of the Nautilus. It was the birth of new contemporary modern Patek, steel with a unique rubber strap (well before they were fashionable) the ref.5066 was made in a series of 1000 pieces with a solid case back and a bold embossed dial and luminous arabic markers. Now twenty years later we a remarkable update. In white gold with new 42mm diameter we have a new version. The dial is a delight, graduating from black to dark blue. This is simply a very stunning piece that you only appreciate when you have the chance to see it as pictures can never do justice to it.
The arabic markers are now set in white gold
Staying with the blue dial Theme, we see the premiere of the 5170 in platinum. The dial is unbelievable, truly stunning. With a wonderful sunburst finish it again goes from black to dark blue. The hours are marked with baguette diamonds. In fact you need to look carefully as they give the impression of being solid markers!
This is yet another exceptional piece. Actually it maybe perhaps the most stunning modern chronograph from Patek- a bold statement perhaps but you need to see this dial to really appreciate it.
Now Patek is renowned not just for its technical complications but also its mastery of the arts. We are mesmerised by the wonderful enamelling but also by the artistry and technical prowess in producing skeleton watches. This is actually a very difficult art to master especially if you combine it with superb engraving.
So I bring you an example of a timepiece that excels at this wonderful art, the ref 5180 in Rose Gold. A technical tour de force, but a pain to picture. The engraving alone takes 130 hours to complete, the skelatonisation is so complete that the only place Patek could engrave their seal was on the rotor.
Now the 5131P. Finally in platinum, with a platinum bracelet. This watch is heavy for sure, but feels fantastic on the wrist. The enamel is of the North Pole and as ever is just stunning. This was the watch of the fair. I can not really say anything other than it is everything and more than I expected. the problem will be there will never be enough- and in reality this is the tragedy of this wonderful piece.
The one regret of this review- I had it on my wrist, I truly loved it and I may never experience that feeling again.
It was not just men that were catered for. Ladies watches also had an exceptional year.
A new annual calendar ref 4947 was revealed in white gold. The dial is stunning, with both horizontal and vertical satin finish, which reminds us of wild shantung silk.
There was new addition to the ladies world time collection- a new ref. 7130 in WG, with an exquisite grey-blue guilloche dial.
Finally an example of the what Patek is renowned for- Haute Joaillerie. The reference 5062/450, is a mastery of diamond setting. The diamonds are cut to emulate the embossing of the Aquanaut dial. A fantastic achievement. Even the hand are set with baguette diamonds!
There was one final reference- the Aquanaut with Advanced research movement. This needs its own post and I will endeavour to feature this unique reference with the time it deserves.
Best
Imran