New Release
Mark in Paris offers a comprehensive first look at Patek Philippe's 2016 novelties, providing an editorial perspective on how the brand balances tradition with subtle evolution. His initial impressions from Baselworld 2016 highlight Patek Philippe's strategic approach to design and movement development, catering to diverse tastes while upholding its classic DNA. This article delves into the nuances of Patek Philippe's annual releases, a critical moment for collectors and enthusiasts.
Gentlemen,
Over these past few weeks, we've eagerly been waiting for that moment when Patek Philippe will unveil its 2016 novelties, and now here they are. The rumors conveyed that several references could receive quite significant changes this year. At the least I can say from the first steps into Baselworld 2016 is that it looks to be an extraordinary year. I just can't wait to handle them in the next weeks, in order to be able to form my own opinions.
Right from the top, I think that the different new references, whether they are brand new models or additions to existing families, represent very well balanced choices and especially a wonderful evolution of the collection. Some of them are I think absolutely breathtaking.
The proof again that Patek Philippe is never where it is expected to be. In the end they are even much above that.
Secondly, the broad array of choices, considering their customers' cultural style diversity (wearing habits, sizes, colors...) have been very nicely taken into account. The borderline exercise consisting of taking into account clients' wishes and tastes as deciding whether it has to be included into the brand's DNA and future evolutions or not needs a lot of talent and historical background. In my opinion, Patek's crew has very cleverly mixed their vision of watchmaking evolution, something that history has proven they cherish and safeguard.
The imperative need to respect and to be in line with their strong legacy is what leads Patek to "think" the evolution and not to follow it. In many stages of its past, the brand has been able to introduce light evolutions or more significant breaking freshness, always in a way that we are surprised many years or decades after that it has remained the epitome of elegance and refinement. Not always that impressive in the present but very so when looking back from a future distance.
I'm sure that some of the models presented this year will be part of this hall of fame.
Patek Philippe's collection is very strongly built and all the pieces have in common this "classic" DNA which ages so well regardless of fads and gimmicks. This kind of conservatism, getting inspiration from but never copying the past and melted with discreet movement developments, has shown over the decades to be the keystone of the brand's reputation and explain why it is so desired today.
Well, I think you can sense the feelings I experienced with my first steps into the 2016 novelties.
Without further ado, here is the overview of the Patek Philippe 2016 new collection:
And to add a little more visibility, let's have a look at the significant models separately.
The 6300G-001 Grandmaster Chime
The outstanding Grandmaster Chime 5175 has left its anniversary dress to give birth this more sober 2016 version. I will do a more detailed review later in the year of the most complicated wristwatch made, reminding us that making complicated movements in a small space is important when dealing with watchmaking. This is were the challenge is. To fit 20 complications in such a volume is a true achievement.
The 5374P-001 Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar
On the case base we already saw in the 5370P last year, this new splendid model looks a little more contemporary compared to more classic references from the brand when dealing with Minute Repeaters.
The 5930G World Time Chronograph
In 39.5x12.8 mm, housing the 28-520 HU, it is a brand new watch - a combination of functions we haven't had for a long time in the collection. More to come later of course.
The 5230G and 5230R World Time
In 38.5mm, housing the 240 HU. I think this may be my favorite, especially with the dramatic dial center, the stunning hands and the beautiful lugs which bring a lot of charm to the sober case. A perfect combination of classic and modern, in my opinion.
The 5327G, 5327J and 5327R
In 39mm, housing the 240Q. Just as the 5140 had the 5127's case style, so the new 5327 is sharing the aesthetical design of the 5227. As I said earlier, it is a gorgeous case and certainly one of my 2 or 3 favorites in the collection. It will be easier to see in a later dedicated post.
The 5170R with Silvery and Black dial
I think this variation will bring a lot of charm to the watch compared to the cleaner G versions. Something I really wish to see in the metal soon.
The 5396G and 5396R with new dial (Grey sunburst and Silvery with both Breguet numerals)
The previous version with applied markers is still available next to this 2016 aesthetical evolution. This dial color is new and is something we haven't seen since the 5960P Grey dial was discontinued a few years ago. Nice to see it back again.
This version has been launched to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Annual Calendar invention (the 5035's first version was presented in Basel in 1996).
The 5140P-017 with a new Grey dial (as the 5396G)
It is maybe the last version before it says "goodbye". A model that will remain a very fine example of romantic classic.
The 5204R
It looks stunning this way.
The Aquanaut 5164R-001
For people who wish to bring their sportive Auquanaut Dual Time to dressier events.
The 5496P-015 with a brushed grey dial
And you'll notice, in the video, the kind of "champlevé" figures on the date, which is an interesting new detail on this reference.
The 5950R-001
Very elegant and what a nice case to push forward again.
The 5539G-010 Minute Repeater with blue dial
A true and delicate marvel in my opinion.
The 5939R
And its unique complicated movement
The 6002G
This appears in another outfit varying from the blue dial we knew previously.
And of course, you may want to have a look at the video presentation of the new references. It is a far better way to have a look at the fantastic case work and also the new dials decoration:
The Patek Philippe Reference 5227, introduced in 2013, is characterized by its officer's style case with an invisibly-hinged dust cover, a feature that distinguishes it within the brand's Calatrava collection. This design element provides a protective cover for the sapphire case back, offering a blend of traditional watchmaking aesthetics and modern functionality. The reference maintains a classic Patek Philippe design language, appealing to collectors who appreciate understated elegance and technical refinement without overt display.
The watch features a 39 mm case with scalloped lugs, housing the automatic caliber 26-330 S C, which provides central seconds and a date display. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, which is protected by the aforementioned hinged dust cover. The case thickness is 9.24 mm. The power reserve for this caliber is between 35 and 45 hours. The reference has been produced in various precious metals, including white gold, yellow gold, and rose gold.
Reference 5227 appeals to collectors seeking a discreet yet technically accomplished timepiece. Its design lineage connects it to other significant Patek Philippe models, such as the Perpetual Calendar Reference 5327, through shared case characteristics. The white gold variant, Reference 5227G-001, was discontinued in 2019, while other metal versions remain in the current catalog, indicating its continued relevance and appeal within the brand's offerings.
I am very disappointed as the first reaction. Not much steel, not much platinum. However, I think the major issue is that there is very little anything that would be really new. But more comments when we discuss each watch separately. Best, Kari
Not much steel indeed. I think it is a very rare material for Patek concerning classical pieces (not talking about Nautilus or Aquanaut lines of course). You had strong points to favorize 1 or 2 in steel this year but I didn't really feel the necessity and when we know the significant place of Steel in Patek's history and in vintage valuation I think it is a very delicate lever to activate. So, I think, imho, it is a good thing not to have one. Time will tell if they were right from the argument
Thanks for the quick update! First impressions: Most interesting new model, the 5230. If I where to choose one from the 2016 novelties this would be it - the G version. Most disappointing evolution, the 5327. All the elements are there, but somehow the final result of this dial does not satisfy. It is modern, but not in a good way. The 5170R versions do not come as a surprise. I still prefer the first J and white dial G versions. The 5930 is for 2016 what the 5524 was for 2015. And, again, I don
Interesting to see on both the new 5230 and the existing but updated 5131R that the change to the new time zones has left the city ring much more cluttered with the cities rather crashing into each other. I note the GMT red indicator on the 5131R is also now smaller.
Kari, you were told there would be 4 pieces you will be buying by the Patek salon. Which 4 do you think they had in mind? I am guessing the 5230, 5930, 5396 breguets, and maybe the 5327?
Seems like last year was all about black dials, and this year is all about Breguet numerals. Nothing that new (I guess the world timer chronograph, but the look leaves me cold) That said, nice to see a blue enamel dial, those are rare. We remember it from Only Watch. Now they have a repeater blue enamel dial 5539. Truly lovely, wish I could afford it!
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