[Baselworld 2016] A wide diversity of Patek Philippe case profiles

Apr 19, 2016,15:21 PM
 

You know that, when looking carefully at Patek pieces' details, we discover all kind of beautiful elements we didn't notice at first sight. These elements are what, imperceptibly, make these watches so special and refined.

Some cases in watchmaking are made to look "spectacular" (i.e. big or thick usually) but this isn't what Patek is about IMHO. It doesn't aim at impressing on a cover of a magazine or a webzine with big cases or massive colors contrasts, it impresses by its work's subtelty and the mastery of adding refined details.

If you didn't already paid attention to it or aren't that familiar with the brand's collection, please have a closer look in the future to the markers (the way they are faceted), the hands' curves, the registers/windows' frames (like the gorgeous 5960's date one with its polished and sandblasted surfaces), the grooves and detailed lugs, even the simpler ones are usually beautiful. You may also consider observing the caseband's shape and the way it is working with the bezel (stepped or not) and the caseback.


5960P: polished frame with sandblasted inner sides and polished edges. This part is a masterpiece you should see in the metal.





5227R: stepped markers and facetted window frame. Fantastic in the metal too.




You will then be able to see why some cases are much harder to craft than others: straight and thicker cases are always easier, thus less expensive, less time consuming, needing a more basic technic, to produce than small/thin and round ones.

The case's shape or the dials are the most obvious but there is also a part we don't pay as much attention to: the profile. This part of the watch says a lot on this matter.

We often underestimate how much the brand's collection offers in terms of diversity.

I compiled, just for the pleasure, the profile photos of all the watches presented during Baselworld 2016 (new versions of existing references or brand new ones). Patek Philippe has taken advantage of their long uninterrupted history and archive conservation work to keep using technics not all brands master today.

There are more in the current collection but I thought that it would be enough for now. These don't take into account additional ones belonging to the current collection which were not concerned by this year's evolutions (it was a way to make a selection and reduce the sample). I don't think of many brands, especially in the high-end segment, that offer such a diversity of beautiful cases.

People sometimes ask why some brands are more expensive and this is definitely a part of the answer. It is IMHO quite reductive to limit craftmanship to chamfering of a movement only and I believe skills can be shown in this field in a more visible way.

Here they are, a pleasure to explore smile (and time to make some guess maybe)

Cheers, Mark




MEN WATCHES


6300 Grandmaster Chime, a work of art.

We may like "Clous de Paris" or not but if we do this new profile is simply gorgeous to my opinion. Not the thinner one but we understand why in this "case".




6104R Celestial.

The caseband isn't flat but slightly "rounded", and so seems to be the edge/side part of the bezel. I like that one quite much.




5327 (Perpetual Calendar)

The 5227 Calatrava's design, not that impressive on the picture but very much so in the metal (maybe my favorite case from the 2 last decades together with the 5975's).




5160 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date

The 5159 engraved version. Not the style we would wear daily but a great art work for sure (and even better in the metal!)




5930 WT Chronograph

We talked about quite much lately, a more masculin evolution like in the 5230.




5131R WT Enameled

One of the last model using this case style we had in the 5110, 5027/5127, 5130, 3940, 5140 etc... previous generations. A must-have? Maybe.




5230 WT

It looks very sober from that side and the front view makes it so different.




5374 (enamel dial, PC, MR)

The fantastic case work from last year's new 5370P. A lot of character in the metal.




5396 Annual Calendar




5140 Perpetual Calendar

Impressive thinness for Patek's well known Perpetual Calendar




5164 Aquanaut.

I must say I didn't recognize the watch at first sight because of the lugs' style. I never noticed they looked like this with the square lines smile




5170 Chronograph




5204 Perpetual Calendar Split Second Chronograph

A convex/concave play that is something very attractive to me. And, after I saw it in the metal, maybe finally my favorite Patek of Basel 2016 in this new material.




5496 Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante Date




5539 Minute Repeater

Romance...




5950 Split Second Chronograph

This caseband looks very different from the round references for sure...




5959 Split Second Chronograph

Beautiful and smooth shape case again, especially considering the 33mm size.




5961 Annual Calendar Chronograph

This one looks a little more impressive than the models above but the lines, and sometimes their opposite orientations, make a wonderful combination IMHO.




6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon

Another very complicated watch with a awe-inspiring engraving work






LADIES WATCHES

7122 "Timeless White"




7200

I wonder if this is not my favorite profile of the 4 ladies novelties.




4897




4968




5067 Aquanaut







This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2016-04-19 15:37:30


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Seems like Patek has a rule

 
 By: alphabeta81 : April 19th, 2016-15:54
That split seconds pieces don\'t have a Patek signed crown like the rest of the collection. Interesting!

It is due to the fact that the split second button is located in the centre of the crown;)...

 
 By: Sandgroper : April 19th, 2016-23:21
...which I find much more elegant than having a button sticking out at 10 or 8 as can be seen on some brands. Cheers, Francois

I guess you should;) [nt]

 
 By: Sandgroper : April 20th, 2016-16:39

;) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : April 20th, 2016-22:25

I'd buy that! [nt]

 
 By: emcquillan : April 20th, 2016-20:18

In fact, the remaining space on the co-axial pusher is very limited...

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-02:25
compared to a standard crown. Something this big sized picture doesn't show. Hence, a Calatrava cross would have been very tiny. Good observation Alpha Cheers, Mark

Thanks for sharing your insight into the intricacies of case making

 
 By: chuck19 : April 19th, 2016-19:41
which I took for grant yet I knew there is something magical about PP and the level of their craftsmanship. I agree about your comment that watch making is not just about how the movements were finished but rather , the sum of its parts. Your post has fur... 

My pleasure Chuck

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-02:30
This is indeed the kind of thing we feel but don't know where it comes from (or miss). You emphasized the main reason I wanted to share this point of view: I don't want to present my tastes but, in this case, more something that everyone can make his one ... 

Mark, you did it again. Thank you!

 
 By: dr.kol : April 20th, 2016-00:00
I took a couple of my watches and started to look them literally from a new angle. You mentioned the fantastic lugs of 5975. I have never looked at that watch from that angle but will correct the mistake when I'll get one into my hands next month. The mai... 

This is the point!

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-02:36
Everyone can make up his own opinion and decide what he likes... or don't. There are many elements we notice but it is nice to see there are still undiscovered ones Yes, the 5975's case is trully a masterpiece and that's why I deeply wanted to get one at ... 

I look forward checking the lugs of 5975.

 
 By: dr.kol : April 20th, 2016-03:38
Like I told you earlier, Patek found "my" 5975P and I will pick it up in less than one month. If you do not mind, I will take some photos and post them here. Best, Kari

I don't mind...

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-06:25
and I'd love you do so! This version is particularly rare to see and be certain we will appreciate the show very much. Again, great move imho. Cheers, Mark

More than great move, it was great luck.

 
 By: dr.kol : April 20th, 2016-09:09
Anyhow, we try to come to Paris in the end of spring. You can then take photos to your "profile gallery". Best, Kari

You know I will love too! [nt]

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-14:36

I have six Patek's travel cases each taking

 
 By: dr.kol : April 20th, 2016-15:09
four watches. I need to load to my briefcase one or two rolls plus one to the left wrist. Put then some film to your camera. And then we can chat about some nice dreams. Best, Kari

I'll board in that plane with pleasure.

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 21st, 2016-12:08
Looking forward to it! Cheers, Mark

Welcome on board!

 
 By: dr.kol : April 21st, 2016-13:00
Kari

Patek profiles are slim or thin even with complicated models.

 
 By: geross : April 20th, 2016-00:17
Compare to the other brands. Asside from the fine elegant finish of their movements. Reliable movements also. Thanks for sharing Mark. Cheers. Geross.

Perfectly summed-up Geross.

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-06:33
I wish, this year to emphasize several elements which are part of the whole picture but we don't pay very much attention too, in spite of the importance it holds in craftmanship and the final result. Even for the 5930, Patek made a lot of effort into keep... 

Thank you Mark for bringing this....

 
 By: watercolors : April 20th, 2016-00:26
secret of Patek's in to the open. Profile of a watch is as beautiful as the whole watch. The 5539 from your list looks to me like most alluring profile of all. Best Regards Edward

I'm glad you liked it Edward!

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-06:42
I thought as I was myself paying more and more attention to these elements that it is indeed not the things we see first while they are though very important. When I saw the profile, I had the same feeling than you had: thos profiles are really pleasant t... 

Great side views Mark. Do not forget Gondolo's ;-))

 
 By: patrickh : April 20th, 2016-01:07
Here is a past photo posted here. Like these curves. Cheers, Patrickh ...  

Thanks for the words and for thinking about the Gondolo profile pictures

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-06:46
It is indeed a very unique one and shows also the comfort it brings on the wrist (curved caseback). As I mentionned, it is a post about the Basel 2016 novelties only (thus, no Nautilus either) but I will definitely make another one later in the year with ... 

Thank you Gordon, glad you enjoyed it!

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-14:39
I think there is much to discover in these understated details. Cheers, Mark

Here it is :)

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 21st, 2016-12:19
It is also a gorgeous one with a very hard work on the case top side, visible from a front picture. The thin height of the bezel is beautiful I think. Cheers, Mark ...  

Great post Mark ...

 
 By: dms : April 20th, 2016-02:50
as usual! But you did not mention any Nautilus. Why?

Nautilus

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-06:29
It deserves it for sure but I gathered only the watches presented at Basel this year! so no Gondolo and no Nautilus ("yet" as there will maybe be a little something later in the year if Patek wishes to make a move for the 40th anniversary). I think I'll m... 

Thank you!

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 21st, 2016-15:21
Yes, I think that this part of their work is underestimated and deserves some attention. Not only for aesthetical reasons but also because it is quite harder to achieve Indeed the Gondolo shows also a very nice caseback curve which follows the wrist's sha... 

Mark, do you know the case thickness of the 5930?

 
 By: RussW : April 20th, 2016-10:16
It looks slim and well proportioned to say it has the same chrono movement of the 5980, which seems substantially thicker. Great post!

The watch has a perfect size on wrist 39,5mm x 12,86mm.

 
 By: patrickh : April 20th, 2016-11:08
if you take a look to my last post. Best, patrickh

Thank you patrickh.

 
 By: RussW : April 20th, 2016-14:34
I enjoyed your write up very much, but didn\'t recall the case size. Thanks for pointing it out.

Indeed it is as slim as it can be

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 20th, 2016-14:36
The 28-520 caliber base has been modified and reduced from 5.2mm to 4.7mm. The World Time module is 3mm. The 5930 is 12.86mm whereas the 5980 (chronograph only with simple date) is 12.6mm and the 5960 (with AC instead of WT) was 12mm (thickness taken in t... 

Thanks for the detailed information Mark.

 
 By: RussW : April 20th, 2016-16:02
That is indeed great technical advancement to reduce the height of the 28-520 movement. I also was not aware of the integrated dial, will have to watch the video again. Like you said, the closer you look into the details, the more there is to admire about... 

Yes, and it is a pleasant exercize to practice on the long term

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 22nd, 2016-08:00
as everyone can make his own opinion and observe by himself what is important and what is not, what some do and what some don't. I regret sometimes to see collections here and there using only 2 or 3 case shapes (though they may still look nice). Everyone... 

This is a fantastic topic...

 
 By: ZeroHour : April 21st, 2016-03:41
One that is overlooked quite often. Thank you Mark for completing the "full picture". The profile is something that everyone should take into account as it changes not only how the watch appears on the wrist, but also drastically affects wearability. Sinc... 

Overlooked indeed

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 22nd, 2016-08:07
The big overall picture is important but I think that details count as well, especially if you want to really observe what make a brand like Patek what it is today for many owners or admirers. No matter you possess what or not, this is still very interest... 

You were right: there is a vast variety of case designs

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : April 22nd, 2016-03:30
I had the impression that case design is getting too uniform but with the consideration of the profile of the cases it is a different picture. I, like many others here, pay also a lot attention to the profile design and enjoy the impressions coming from t... 

I must say that when I went closer into the cases' details...

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 23rd, 2016-05:50
it was only maybe less than 2 years ago. However, I get more pleasure today and am more able than before to study and compare them. That's also why the experience "live" is something mandatory! This is impressive to be able to keep such a diversity in a s... 

Creative "angle" for a post Mark

 
 By: Dave G : April 23rd, 2016-04:37
Creates a fresh vantage point on some familiar and not too familiar pieces. Thanks for sharing. Dave

Thank you Dave

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 24th, 2016-09:31
I remember when I came slowly to have a closer look at profile pictures in the past and thought it was something interesting to have a closer look at. What you say is true and I must say that the profiles provide some very interesting surprises from refer...