A few high lights to set the mood.
" It is decorated in various shades of taupe, biscuit and fuck you. There's a little gilt here and there, to remind us that this is a room designed for people for whom guilt is unfamiliar. It shouts money much as football fans shout at the ref. "
"We hit it again in an amuse-bouche which doesn't: a halved and refilled passionfruit, the vicious passionfruit supplemented by a watercress pure that tastes only of the plant's most bitter tones. My lips purse, like a cat's arse that's brushed against nettles."
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Like a Barbie-sized silicone breast implant: amuse-bouches. Photograph: Jean-Claude Amiel