Omega

lynch_d
5

• Show profile
• Show other posts

Speedmaster Professional: An Enthusiast's Review

Omega Speedmaster Professional: An Enthusiast’s Review

The Omega Speedmaster Professional is one of the most written about wristwatches in horological history.  I will not attempt to write another critical review as this has been done by many others who are much more knowledgeable.  This review is about why, as a watch enthusiast, I love my Omega Speedmaster Professional.

 The Omega Speedmaster Professional is not a modern watch.  The first version of this watch came out in 1957 and has changed only slightly in the years since.  The manual wind, non-hacking movement is a pleasure to operate.  The watch needs your attention everyday and the interaction is something I miss with my automatic watches.  Even setting the time requires a special procedure.  The time is set by pulling the crown out, setting the hour and minute hand and placing back-pressure on the crown which stops the seconds sub-dial.

A chronograph is one of the more useful of mechanical watch complications; I enjoy timing my pasta and walks with my Labrador.  

The dial is a masterpiece.  The flat matte black dial provides a rich background for the thin matte white hands.  A shiny black outer tachymeter ring provides further contrast to the matte black dial.  The tri-compax setup of the sub-dials is kept in balance by the Omega Logo and Speedmaster Professional written in white.  Each five-minute interval is marked with a printed super-luminova baton.  The batons are all of equal length and the sub-dials do not cut into any of the batons thus breaking the symmetry of the dial.  The pie-pan design at the edges the dial reminds me of the 50s and 60s Constellation pie-pan dials.  Two simple super-luminova dots mark the 12 o’clock position.  The white needle of the chronograph second hand sits perfectly between these two dots when not in use. 

The 42mm steel case has a beautiful blend of brushed and polished surfaces.  I don’t know how to explain it but the watch wears like 40mm, which is my perfect watch size. The 20mm lugs give the owner endless possibilities for aftermarket straps and it looks great with most of them.

The domed Hesalite crystal gives depth to the dial.  It also gives the dial an appealing distorting affect if you look at the watch at an angle.  Light scratches can be easily buffed out with Poly Watch.  If you do manage to seriously damage the crystal, it can be replaced relatively inexpensively.  The Hesalite crystal is now part of the distinctive character of the watch.  NASA didn’t want a sapphire crystal on the Speedmaster and neither do I.

The Lemania 1861 is an evolution of a 30 year-old movement.  It is an integrated chronograph and made exclusively for Omega and you will not find this movement in any other watch.  It may not be in-house but it still makes me feel warm and fuzzy.  Moreover, the movement is not COSC certified and I like it that way. Without the certification, I don’t have to pay for it and Omega does not have to clutter up the dial telling me about it.  Some newer models feature the more decorated 1863 movement with a display back, however, I prefer the solid case back with the anti-magnetic dustcover.  After all, this is still a tool watch.  I my mind, display backs are for fine movements.  If one day I’m lucky enough to buy a Patek, Blancpain, or Jaeger LeCoultre maybe I’ll want a display back.

The Speedmaster retails for around $4,400, however, there is absolutely no reason to pay retail.  A good example can be easily acquired on the secondary market for $1,500 to $2,500.  I paid a reasonable price for mine and I could not be happier. 

When you are buying, remember that the Speedmaster Professional is the one to have.  Omega has tried mightily to capitalize on the iconic Speedmaster by adding new versions but these other versions often use ETA based movements or change elements of the already perfect dial.  The aesthetics of the dial do not work in the same way when the date windows are cut into it, moon phases are added, or the size of the dial is altered.  You will also see numerous “anniversary” or “commemorative” versions of the Speedmaster - none of these speak to me in the same way as the original.

Although the Speedmaster’s history with NASA has made it famous, it is not why I love the watch.  The Speedmaster Professional is a watch for the watch enthusiast.  It takes us back to the golden age of wristwatches, the 50s and 60s.  It is a watch that even a novice to the hobby will be able to say something about.  It screams I love watches.  It is not a status symbol or a fashion accessory.  People who recognize it will not ask you how much it cost, they will want to talk about what it is.  That is what I love about the Speedmaster Professional.