patrick_y
[PuristSPro Moderator]
33549
They ought to make it! They really do!
It actually increases the costs of manufacturing significantly to make a summer extension system. Depending on the design of the system. For example, the latest Patek Philippe system on the 5811 is a very complex high precision mechanism with a lot of parts. But if you're just looking at the Rolex system where a friction-fit link unfolds from itself (a much simpler system) the costs on that are much more manageable.
Conspicuous Conundrum: New Watches Are Lacking Fine Adjustment Bracelets and Buckles
It's a quiet Watches and Wonders 2024 this year. And one thing I was hoping and predicting to see was more clasps with fine adjustment. So far, I'm disappointed, as I'm not seeing a lot of these clasps and bracelets with fine adjustments. Why does a clasp...
Thank you!
It's a luxury object that's supposed to be a perfect work of art. I just think this fine adjustment for the bracelet would be an important part of perfecting a product.
Overall an interesting read, thx for that. Your text seems to be a bit shallow in some parts, though.
The current Vacheron Overseas does have a very good fine adjustment on the metal bracelet. The leather and rubber strap clasp for it don’t need it in my opinion. The Octo Finissimo metal bracelet doesn‘t have one because of its construction, which has bee...
You must know more about the subject than I do.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas models are hard to come by and the photos online didn't show the fine adjustment. But now that you mentioned it, I do recall now that I read a press release about it around two years ago or so, mentioning that the bracelet...
Sorry, if I offended you. English ist not my native tongue, so I sometimes use words in a wrong way.
Regarding the Overseas: Here‘s two quick pictures showing the bracelet with the extensions on both sides pushed in and pulled out. Regarding the Octo Finissimo: Here‘s two quick pictures showing how the clasp is actually integrated into the links of the b...
Not at all!
You are fine! Thank you for the pictures. The Vacheron Contantin photo is a nice reminder of how the system works! The Bulgari is a nice watch! I have some too!
True!
Especially for design lead brands like Cartier and Bulgari, the desire to create a certain look may be the higher priority. But still, the resources these large companies have are vast. And many brands spend more time and money making patented exclusive s...
Indeed.
Yes, that's another thing about these micro adjustments! With the micro adjustment, one generally doesn't need a small 0.5 link or the large 1.5 link.
Thank you for the overview!
However, when looking at Formex and Longines Spirit (both powered by dexel) and Parmigiani for the Tonda 1950 in steel I'm not sure if the cost argument still holds water. Some of the major brands just don't seem to care too much when it comes to micro ad...
I agree. Costs shouldn't be a factor, considering less expensive brands like Rolex and Omega do find a way.
The problem, which I didn't make very clear, in my article (for keeping it short, otherwise, it quickly gets very long) is that these higher end watches often make a lot of watches in gold. And once you have a part made in gold, the costs go up significan...
I honestly never use fine adjustment so it's not a deal breaker for me
But I still think that it's a good thing to have.
Neither did I...
I didn't use one for a very long time. My first watch, a watch I wore nearly every day for nearly 10 years, didn't have it. Sometimes, on a warm day, the watch would be noticeably tight, and sometimes on a cold morning, the watch would be too loose. I'm c...
If they don't invest much in new movements
Why they should pay R&D for a simple buckle?
You bring up a good point!
New movements that are easier to service, cheaper to produce, more accurate, and using the latest silicon technologies that reduce servicing requirements is a priority for the brands. Not new buckles. But some of these new movements are already put into w...
Imagie living in Singapore.... Heat, humidity outdoors... air conditioning, ocean swimming...
..my wirst size changes. So very much a big yes i use the clasp adjustments. Since i tend to change bands, you can also choose the pinbuckle / clasp, which also affects the overall fitment. Of course when all else fails, just add another hole in the leath...
Absolutely!
At home, I have tools to adjust my strap. If I really need to. This rarely happens. But when I'm traveling to Singapore, Taipei, or any of these "warm" countries where one goes from air conditioned coolness, to hot outdoors and back and forth all the time...
It seems many have opinions of your piece!
Thanks for the clarifying post on the translation of R&D from steel to gold and the sheer material cost in gold does put and added factor in CoGS. I would also like to point to material properties too wrt steel vs. gold, so another point for a brand that ...
Another great fine-adjustment bracelent
I was really impressed with the A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus fine adjustment on its bracelet. Being able to adjust while you're still wearing it is peak usability design to me. Only just recently discovered that the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronogra...
They ought to make it! They really do!
It actually increases the costs of manufacturing significantly to make a summer extension system. Depending on the design of the system. For example, the latest Patek Philippe system on the 5811 is a very complex high precision mechanism with a lot of par...
Brands do ought to make these more often!
The problem is that the average consumer isn't asking for them. Sure, here on WatchProSite, we definitely are all expecting them - especially on expensive watches. But the average consumer asks for three things; automatic, date, and water resistance of ar...
Micro-adjustment really is an issue for me
While I somehow solved the issue with my PP 5711, 52701R and Royal Oak 15202 by installing a 1 1/2 link, I still have an issue with the Day Date 40. For this nearly perfect bracelet I need a fine adjustment, or at least a slightly wider link. Normally, du...
It's a significant cost increase and it's difficult to design it in an aesthetically pleasing way.
The number one problem is that the average customer isn't asking for this. This Patek Philippe Nautilus system is super complex and difficult to manufacture. Some would also say it doesn't look very nice aesthetically when the system is extended. This FP ...
That is true
PP micro adjusting is very similar to the VC Overseas one. I always considered Overseas bracelets to be superior to the one of Nautilus, even the older versions. Besides, they come with half a link, exactly for the reason of tge perfect fit.