Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
7136
The Majesty Collection: crowned by an in-house movement with circumferential rotor
The Ellicott Majesty is not exactly a new watch, it was presented already in 2010. In fact, it enjoyed some public attention when it was presented in 2011 to the then Colonel in Chief, His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.
However, its a milestone for Ellicott as it comes with their first proprietary movement, a technically quite interesting movement with a circumferential rotor and a unique finishing. The watch comes in several variants, fully red gold, with a tantalum bezel or in white gold:
I was shown a new version with a tantalum case and a solid red gold bezel:
The watch has a reductionist design featuring a limited number of pronounced accents. Its main element is a 42 x 42 mm cushion shaped brushed case with integrated lugs and an enlarged bezel.
The accented design is perpetuated on the dial which gives an exciting visual impression thanks to its concentrically engraved and anthracite-coloured rings on a dial that is divided into three main areas. The other elements are a set of very legible hands, a seconds indication at 10 o'clock and a date which is integrated into the 3 o'clock marker.
It comes with no surprise that this watch is all about the interplay of vertical and horizontal lines and curves.
The overall quality of the case particularly is remarkable as can be judged by the exactly crafted lines I tried to highlight in the following image:
The overall quality of the case particularly is remarkable as can be judged by the exactly crafted lines I tried to highlight in the following image:
Despite its vertical-heavy design the watch (case) is actually quite slim. The red gold crown serves as visual counter-point to the dark case.
Turned over the watch reveals its unusual interior below a cross-shaped crystal. This unique and supposedly quite expensive solution was necessary to achieve maximum visibility while at the same time allowing for a secure attachment of the case back via four proprietary screws.
A recently introduced in-house movement, Cal. MG3, with circumferential rotor was designed by Les Artisans du Temps. It provides 70h of power reserve from what appears to be one large mainspring barrel. The movement features hours and minutes with running seconds off-centered at 10 o’clock and a date calendar at 3 o’clock.
Turned over the watch reveals its unusual interior below a cross-shaped crystal. This unique and supposedly quite expensive solution was necessary to achieve maximum visibility while at the same time allowing for a secure attachment of the case back via four proprietary screws.
A recently introduced in-house movement, Cal. MG3, with circumferential rotor was designed by Les Artisans du Temps. It provides 70h of power reserve from what appears to be one large mainspring barrel. The movement features hours and minutes with running seconds off-centered at 10 o’clock and a date calendar at 3 o’clock.
Its technical data are summarised as follows:
Movement Calibre MG3
- Self-winding mechanical movement
- Diameter 28.00 mm
- Height 3.80 mm
- Number of parts 253
- Number of jewels 31
- Power reserve 70 hours
- Circumferential winding rotor
- Balance glucydur
- Frequency 28’800 oscillations per hour (4Hz)
- Balance spring flat
Such movements have been introduced by other manufactures as well, with C.F. Bucherer as one prominent example. The combination of the comfort of automatic winding with a flat construction and unobstructed view on the mechanics are their main appeal. The latter is particularly interesting in light of the unique rimmed finish if the bridges.
The winding energy of the rotor is routed to the barrel via three small gears mounted on ball bearings. The are driven by a toothwork on the inner rotor rim. Here are two of them in detail:
The Ellicott Majesty does not disappoint on the wrist. The dial is just an irresistible eye-catcher, an effect that is enhanced by the contrast with the dark case.
I personally am not really drawn to cushion shaped watches, I always find their lugs/strap transition awkward. This watch is not different. However, the dial/bezel combination is a strong winner for me. The interesting movement does not hurt either!
