Comments:
The watch has a reductionist design featuring a limited number of pronounced accents. Its main element is a 42 x 42 mm cushion shaped brushed case with integrated lugs and an enlarged bezel.
The accented design is perpetuated on the dial which gives an exciting visual impression thanks to its concentrically engraved and anthracite-coloured rings on a dial that is divided into three main areas. The other elements are a set of very legible hands, a seconds indication at 10 o'clock and a date which is integrated into the 3 o'clock marker.
Such movements have been introduced by other manufactures as well, with C.F. Bucherer as one prominent example. The combination of the comfort of automatic winding with a flat construction and unobstructed view on the mechanics are their main appeal. The latter is particularly interesting in light of the unique rimmed finish if the bridges.
The winding energy of the rotor is routed to the barrel via three small gears mounted on ball bearings. The are driven by a toothwork on the inner rotor rim. Here are two of them in detail:
I personally am not really drawn to cushion shaped watches, I always find their lugs/strap transition awkward. This watch is not different. However, the dial/bezel combination is a strong winner for me. The interesting movement does not hurt either!
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-10-03 06:28:52
Baselworld 2013: Ellicott: Watches Fit for a King...
For most of you (and until I saw them also for me) the brand Ellicott 1738 is unknown territory. However, the name is certainly not new, nor is the philosophy or the people behind it!
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-10-03 08:58:31 This message has been edited by AndrewD on 2013-10-04 13:39:02 This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-10-06 16:15:34
Ellicott is named after British watchmaker John Ellicott jr. (1706-1772), member of the Clockmaker's Company and later, in 1738, was invited to join the British Royal Society. Ellicott stems from an influential watchmaking family, his father John for example was credited with the development of the first central seconds. John Ellicott jr. was best known for his work on temperature compensated pendulums and his use of the cylinder escapement. Ellicott's son Edward joined his workshop in 1760.
One interesting side-note is that John Ellicott's greatest talent was not the actual watchmaking craft but more in technical/scientific and business aspects of the trade. He is also believed to possess and impressive aptitude for selecting the best talents available to ensure that his watches were of the best quality possible at his time. Thomas Tompion for example was one of his suppliers/sub-contractors. Ellicott's quality workmanship led to an appointment as Clockmaker to King George III. A fine example of a clock made for the King is given below, a Mahagoni-cased bracket clock made in 1765:
The Ellicott watch business ran for about 200 years until the family vanished due to lack of heirs. Around the year 2001, two Swiss entrepreneurs Eric Loth and Pierre-André Finazzi teamed up to create their own watch brand(s) and were looking for suitable names. They quickly turned to the rich tradition of British watchmaking and acquired the rights to many dormant but once famous names - the rest is history and best known as The British Masters: Swiss-made watches carrying the names of famous British watchmakers (e.g. Arnold & Son, Graham).
Finazzi left the partnership early to set up is own brand. Promoting the knowledge on anglo-saxon horology must have been fascinating, and thus he decided to start with another brand using a similar concept, and thus Ellicott S.A was born in the Swiss watchmaking mega-city of La-Chaud-de-Fonds:
"As a curious and interested person, I was always aware of British watchmaking history and of all the famous British horologists. Then, during the early part of this decade life offered me the opportunity to start a new watchmaking venture, and I could think of no better name than that of Ellicott. Just like when John II and subsequent generations joined the company as sons perpetuating their fathers’ work, it is with great respect and inspiration that I continue to cultivate the British heritage of the brand and to promote and establish the Ellicott name throughout the world. Today, everyone involved in the new company has a genuine passion for haute horlogerie and the modern day Ellicott represents a unique heritage and a fantastic means for expressing this passion." [Mr Finazzi in an interview with QP magazine in 2011]
Mr Finazzi is not only CEO of Ellicott, but carries a dual role as designer as well. Ellicott today makes about 100 watches annually in the range between 10.000 and 100.000 CHF (core range: 15.000 - 50.000 CHF).
With this report, for which I conducted my research during this year's BaselWorld fair, I'd like to present you this rather unknown brand and invite you to provide your judgement.
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-10-03 08:58:31 This message has been edited by AndrewD on 2013-10-04 13:39:02 This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-10-06 16:15:34
The Royal Skeleton: celebrating 275th anniversary of Ellicott's induction to Royal Society
With this watch Ellicott is honouring John Ellicott’s admission into the prestigious Royal Society. This year marks the 275th anniversary of his induction. The watch, called Royal Skeleton, is a powerfully design skeletonised watch driven by a handwound movement.
Its case is crafted in 42mm rose gold and is contrasted with a dial element made of Tantalum.
Of interest are the screwed balance visible through a dedicated round opening in an otherwise 'radiating' dial:
The latter is not just a dial but is actually part of the movement, holding e.g. one jewel. Note also that the open-worked barrel allows you to gauge the power reserve status:
The case has a case band of 10mm, which gives a joie de vivre impression thanks to its convex shape. I really like the reduced but quite comfortable crown.
The movement, called E. RSK. 130, has substantial dimensions (34.50mm diameter; 5.86 mm of thickness). Its made up of 149 components and features a power reserve of 48 hours with a 28’800 alt/H (4Hz) frequency.
The springs used remind me on Christophe Claret movements, but I guess that Concepto is the maker here.
On the wrist the watch manages to make quite a statement. I am generally not a fan of skeletonised watches (if I want to see my hairy wrist I can always take my watch off...). Still, I think its a likeable watch with a very good quality in terms of design and technology.
In contrast to many other such watches you can actually easily read the time.
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-10-03 04:23:26
Its case is crafted in 42mm rose gold and is contrasted with a dial element made of Tantalum.
Of interest are the screwed balance visible through a dedicated round opening in an otherwise 'radiating' dial:
The latter is not just a dial but is actually part of the movement, holding e.g. one jewel. Note also that the open-worked barrel allows you to gauge the power reserve status:
The case has a case band of 10mm, which gives a joie de vivre impression thanks to its convex shape. I really like the reduced but quite comfortable crown.
The movement, called E. RSK. 130, has substantial dimensions (34.50mm diameter; 5.86 mm of thickness). Its made up of 149 components and features a power reserve of 48 hours with a 28’800 alt/H (4Hz) frequency.
The springs used remind me on Christophe Claret movements, but I guess that Concepto is the maker here.
On the wrist the watch manages to make quite a statement. I am generally not a fan of skeletonised watches (if I want to see my hairy wrist I can always take my watch off...). Still, I think its a likeable watch with a very good quality in terms of design and technology.
In contrast to many other such watches you can actually easily read the time.
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-10-03 04:23:26
100% sure it is a Concepto movement.
The shape of the spring can't lie...
Thanks Magnus!
Fx
Thanks Magnus!
Fx
The Majesty Collection: crowned by an in-house movement with circumferential rotor
The Ellicott Majesty is not exactly a new watch, it was presented already in 2010. In fact, it enjoyed some public attention when it was presented in 2011 to the then Colonel in Chief, His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.
However, its a milestone for Ellicott as it comes with their first proprietary movement, a technically quite interesting movement with a circumferential rotor and a unique finishing. The watch comes in several variants, fully red gold, with a tantalum bezel or in white gold:
I was shown a new version with a tantalum case and a solid red gold bezel:
The watch has a reductionist design featuring a limited number of pronounced accents. Its main element is a 42 x 42 mm cushion shaped brushed case with integrated lugs and an enlarged bezel.
The accented design is perpetuated on the dial which gives an exciting visual impression thanks to its concentrically engraved and anthracite-coloured rings on a dial that is divided into three main areas. The other elements are a set of very legible hands, a seconds indication at 10 o'clock and a date which is integrated into the 3 o'clock marker.
It comes with no surprise that this watch is all about the interplay of vertical and horizontal lines and curves.
The overall quality of the case particularly is remarkable as can be judged by the exactly crafted lines I tried to highlight in the following image:
The overall quality of the case particularly is remarkable as can be judged by the exactly crafted lines I tried to highlight in the following image:
Despite its vertical-heavy design the watch (case) is actually quite slim. The red gold crown serves as visual counter-point to the dark case.
Turned over the watch reveals its unusual interior below a cross-shaped crystal. This unique and supposedly quite expensive solution was necessary to achieve maximum visibility while at the same time allowing for a secure attachment of the case back via four proprietary screws.
A recently introduced in-house movement, Cal. MG3, with circumferential rotor was designed by Les Artisans du Temps. It provides 70h of power reserve from what appears to be one large mainspring barrel. The movement features hours and minutes with running seconds off-centered at 10 o’clock and a date calendar at 3 o’clock.
Turned over the watch reveals its unusual interior below a cross-shaped crystal. This unique and supposedly quite expensive solution was necessary to achieve maximum visibility while at the same time allowing for a secure attachment of the case back via four proprietary screws.
A recently introduced in-house movement, Cal. MG3, with circumferential rotor was designed by Les Artisans du Temps. It provides 70h of power reserve from what appears to be one large mainspring barrel. The movement features hours and minutes with running seconds off-centered at 10 o’clock and a date calendar at 3 o’clock.
Its technical data are summarised as follows:
Movement Calibre MG3
- Self-winding mechanical movement
- Diameter 28.00 mm
- Height 3.80 mm
- Number of parts 253
- Number of jewels 31
- Power reserve 70 hours
- Circumferential winding rotor
- Balance glucydur
- Frequency 28’800 oscillations per hour (4Hz)
- Balance spring flat
Such movements have been introduced by other manufactures as well, with C.F. Bucherer as one prominent example. The combination of the comfort of automatic winding with a flat construction and unobstructed view on the mechanics are their main appeal. The latter is particularly interesting in light of the unique rimmed finish if the bridges.
The winding energy of the rotor is routed to the barrel via three small gears mounted on ball bearings. The are driven by a toothwork on the inner rotor rim. Here are two of them in detail:
The Ellicott Majesty does not disappoint on the wrist. The dial is just an irresistible eye-catcher, an effect that is enhanced by the contrast with the dark case.
I personally am not really drawn to cushion shaped watches, I always find their lugs/strap transition awkward. This watch is not different. However, the dial/bezel combination is a strong winner for me. The interesting movement does not hurt either!
