Horological Meandering

During my recent short stay in Paris, I tried on two watches with a date window about which I thought to myself : this is how it should be done . What do they have in common ? A framed aperture , well aligned with the hour markers. A date disc that matche...  

In fact, this post was a way for me to try and understand why I felt the date window was really well done when trying the JLC and the GS! Best, Emmanuel

Unfortunately most brands just don’t get it. Or they have to use parts bin and existing movement to save cost and not make a change. Breguet’s 5177 is another classic example how lazy the designers are and ignoring the dial symmetry, harmony. I am used to... 

but not on the Breguet 5177, which I find well done personally. In fact doing the date window nicely seems to be more difficult than it seems. And of course it’s also a matter of personal taste as the appreciation of the same date window may vary dependin... 

Also, since I wear my mechanicals on my right wrist now, my AEs date window is perfect for me! ...  

I also own an AE and don’t mind the date window but I don’t think the 4:30 placement is ideal. Best, Emmanuel

If it wasn't for "health" forcing me into monitoring devices on my left wrist, I'd likely have taken one look at the AE and said "that's backwards" and not even made the purchase. Funny how life works out.

even if “funny” isn’t appropriate when health issues are involved, of course…

I think in addition to brands you have shown GO does a good job with date. Personally I like the big dates that do not have a divider/two windows showing the date.

but don’t hesitate to add a photo, as a complementary comparison! It would be very welcome. Best, Emmanuel

All of their big dates basically look like this. Again just my opinion it looks better without the framing of both numbers. Having said that I would certainly add a Lange to the collection if I could 😊 Apologies I accidentally posted the same thing twice....  

Y Y N Y N Y Y Y Y N Y N N Y 😜

Only 5 N and 9 Y! The one about which I feel differently is the Breguet, which I find well done. Best, Emmanuel

but find their date windows very unappealing.

Best, Emmanuel

Courtesy of Vlad of course ...  

even if the cut 7 gives me mixed feelings…

Because it was designed with the big date as a key element, it’s not just the usual ( lazy) window placed at 3/6 o’clock.🧐 4,30 it’s just weird and I just pretend that it doesn't exist 😇 Finally the Nautilus has achieved this huge evolutional leap, leavin... 

utility of the date: we can do without it for sure, but I’ve always found it very practical to have it on the wrist. I agree with you concerning the Lange 1, but it’s not the only one I find well executed, personally. In any case, thanks for sharing your ... 

But, as you show, many manufacturer do it right! I think all of your examples are well executed, although personal taste and preferences come into play as well… Especially your Breguet example is standing out, because this could have been a nightmare if t...  

...  

the placement at 4:30 is ideal, but it still “works”. It’s also funny that Zenith chose to orient the numerals perpendicular to the bezel, while Chopard chose the parallel orientation. Best, Emmanuel

“simple” thing is in fact difficult to do well. I also agree that having a date disc which matches the dial color is essential. Your Zenith is a good example of that: even though I find the placement at 4:30 not ideal at all (like on my Alpine Eagle), it ... 

The Lange 1 stands out with the date an integrated element of the complete design. The date on the new JLC is really quite good; as is the first Grand Seiko. I prefer a date that blends in ( if it can't be done as on the Lange 1. Thanks again for the post... 

was primarily a way for me to try and understand why I felt the date window was really well done when trying on the JLC and GS! Best, Emmanuel

Now, I will wait patiently for the battle between our friends amanico and nasseriq to commence!🤺 Get the popcorn ready!🍿😆

Best, Emmanuel

The Breguet date window is done well and Lange is better. But the GO is even better since the two discs are at the same level vs Lange which is stacked. I am also a fan of Rolex’s execution of the date window. In all these cases, the date has been a focus...  

Regarding Rolex and the Cyclops, I've always had mixed feelings, personally. Best, Emmanuel

It has always surprised me when a high end brand handles this one thing poorly…

This seems evidenced by the fact that the date window is so often poorly or controversially designed, even by the best brands... Best, Emmanuel

I agree with your assessments of the JLC and GS framing, placement and disc colour. In your 12 additional examples and comments the two I like are the Lange big date and (we will disagree here) the Laurent Ferrier. In person I find the unique aperture bal... 

I find your views concerning the LF interesting, even if I feel differently: Laurent Ferrier did not choose this design by chance and it therefore corresponds to a genuine aesthetic choice, even if I do not personally appreciate it. Best, Emmanuel

Is how I approach date indication. >> date is a choice that once taken has to be legible and maintain the cohesion of the whole watch Legible: There’s no point to a date that’s hard to read unless the inclusion was cynical in the first place ie simply to ... 

Moser PC date window: I think it would be better if framed with the same metal as the indices. And mechanical is very fine with me! Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Best, Emmanuel ...  

...has big white numerals, generaly 'light' enough to balance the indices. Especially the laer 2 digit dates. The 1st of the month is a bit lightweight, but one can't have everything. If the Moser date window were to be framed, the indices would need to b...  

but I'm still not sold on the date window of the Moser PC as is, personally. I prefer the GS! That said, like you, I would take the Moser if offered to me ;-)

and these photos were taken over the past few months and years. I have others, but I decided to stick to these few… The JLC has to be seen in person, imo. Best, Emmanuel

That’s the reason I love the new Nautilus 50th Anniversary watches so much. No date!!! In the past I could only bear the pointer date versions… And I have something special for you: the Panerai 670. Some of us love it (like me), some of us „hate“ it. The ...  

And thank you for sharing this Panerai I was completely unaware of: I agree with you that the date is well integrated. A 47 mm case makes it easier to display several information in an uncluttered way! Best, Emmanuel

Best, Emmanuel

One thing that bothers me a lot is when the date is too crowded by the window. Seen it on some Pateks and other pieces. Let's not forget the Glashutte Original panorama date. Really well done. Lange has a blank space instead of a zero. Looks like a person... 

I also agree with you concerning the Breguet! Best, Emmanuel

Why? The GS window aligns with the inner radius of the markers. The JLC does not, it is pushed too far inward towards the center. Function of the movement, of course, but your article is so detailed, this is a point worth mentioning. Thanks my Friend!

the GS is definitely better and you explain very well why! Thank you! Best, Emmanuel

A couple of examples Not forgetting Nomos's take on it with the pointer behind the dial. The update Photo credit: Nomos website Cheers JML ...