That was the question that I friend made on our last GTG. Between one sip of good espresso and another I tried to explain but after few phrases I choose to let the debate die and my closing statement was “I will do a post on the PuristSPro explaining".
Since he has a very good memory, he called after one day asking “Where is my post?” and I’m here to try to explain “Why Zenith?” on a more organized way.
Why Zenith?
It’s all about persons, passion and consistence.
We all know that every meaningful watch manufacture has a great past and history but their past and history are focused on the company and the company accomplishments.
Zenith, on other hand, has a great past and history, like the others but it’s a history permeated by ups and downs that makes Zenith’s history so fantastic.
I could list all main accomplishments of Zenith but let’s try to focus on what happened since 1960.
In 1960 Zenith acquired Martel Watch Co, a movement maker that was facing difficulties after Universal Geneve decided to manufacture their own movements.
It was a very lucky acquisition because as part of the Martel assets Zenith also got a team of great movement designers under the leadership of Raoul Pelaton.
This team, of course working with others from Zenith, designed the El Primero, the first integrated automatic chronograph ever made in 1969.
Please check this great post by Nicola: zenith.watchprosite.com
Here we have: A movement with a father --> Persons
The El Primero was designed, as they did at that time, by hand, as we can see from Nicola’s (not Nicolas!) post.
So, Zenith was very lucky on Martel acquisition but it was not that lucky when it was acquired by Zenith Radio Corporation in 1971.
The guys from Zenith Radio were true believers on the quartz technology and in 1978 they issued orders to shut down the production of any mechanical movement and to scrap all movements, furniture and machinery.
Here enters Charles Vermot, head at that time of the chronograph studios, that took actions to hide and literally save the El Primero.
One more point: A movement with a savior --> Persons and Passion
Later Ebel started to use the movements that Charles Vermot preserved and after that Rolex started using the El Primero on the Daytona.
The El Primero got a new traction and Zenith could return to be a true manufacture.
After that, Zenith was acquired by LVMH and we enter the Nataf years.
Many things were written about Nataf and we may not like the Zenith designs of the so called Nataf era but Thierry Nataf put Zenith back to the headlines.
Nataf also, corrects me if I’m wrong, negotiated with Zenith Radio the use of the Zenith name in United States.
Of the many unusual designs of Nataf’s era, one point was not changed and it was the continuation of the use of the El Primero movements.
Here we have my last point: Consistency.
As I type this text I’m wearing a Zenith El Primero “New Vintage” that was released in 2009 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the El Primero.
Later, I may swap to a Zenith Stratos Fly Back, that was recently released and is powered by … an El Primero.
Of course, there are many other factors that make us to love or hate a particular brand but I prefer to like a thing that has:
Persons, passion and consistence behind it.
Other reasons
Hooked on chronographs
In addition to the “persons, passion and consistence” principle, I love Zenith watches because I’m hooked on chronographs and I consider the chrono the most useful watch complication ever.
I can give up date, full calendar and moon phases but I need, almost every day, to measure some elapsed time.
That is the reason that I own a single non-chronograph Zenith watch, a low cost Elite that I wear on social occasions or when I need to go to not so safe places and there are many unsafe places here where I live.
All in all, I love to see the chrono hand moving smoothly under the 36000 bph.
Dependability
I already owned, most acquired “second hand”, Zenith watches and I never ever experienced any issue. I know that, on this point, I’m playing “simple enumeration” but I feel that I can activate any of my Zenith watches, set it and wear it without any concern. Of course, that most of other brands that I own, are also dependable but I trust more on the solid, no frills, engineering behind my Zeniths.
Maintainability
The consistency of Zenith by using a single movement is a tremendous help when we need to maintain a particular watch.
My watchmaker team already has all necessary knowledge, tools and oils to proper maintain an El Primero under, this is very important to me, a very reasonable cost.
A great side effect of the longevity of this movement is the fact that it’s somehow simple to source movement parts.
El Primero as a collection theme
When I started collecting watches, I didn’t plan to follow a theme but it happened naturally. It helped the fact that, at least here, Zenith is not a big players and I can add a watch without too much financial effort.
I didn’t start to dive into the waters of vintage Zeniths except for one chronograph with a 146DP that was way too cheap to pass. This watch is not in great shape but … I’m probing the waters.
With the 146DP I could already notice that parts will be a major issue.
Meanwhile I’m staying with “moderns”, El Primero based and let’s see if I can add one or another as I go.
Last point. Zenith produces (IMHO) beautiful watches
Let's see some:
1) Class (I made a mistake to sell this one. I'm working to get it back)







