A bit later in the year and throughout, we were treated withthe 'obvious highlights', mechanical and/or artistic wonders which - to Zenith - are rather new lands. There is the
, an otherworldly etheral watch crafted in translucent sapphire and adorned with a Grand Feu enamel dial. Totally beyond its designation as a tool watch, but at the same time so much out of its way that it is admirable on its own right. More
, with its gyroscopic gimbal system. This year it teased us with some so far unseen engraving, skulpturing and enamelling artwork. Its really worthwhile to take some time to appreciate it in fully, e.g.
Then, probably unavoidedly, we have seen more controversial introductions. As an individual watch, the designation goes to the
Zenith Pilot Type 20 'Special Edition', which - as specialty - featured a Sellita, but not an in-house Zenith movement. Not a bad watch per se, but where's the technical Zenith DNA? It has been, so I have was reassured, already been discontinued. For more on this,
here is a review, and
here the latest news regarding the termination of Sellita movements.
Another not universally applauded move was the a newly set focus on marketing partnerships and testimonials, e.g. with the
Rolling Stones.
The resulting watch again is not distasteful (
here!), but thinking about it one has to ask what exactly does this add to Zenith? Does this attract
new and worthwile customers in the
future?
Another rather controversial piece is the
Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute to Felix Baumgartner watch (hands on
here ), which packs excellent horological content together with what I would assume to be a rather quickly fading design trend (DLC-coated platinum??) and a presumably even sooner to be forgotten homage (Felix Baumgarnter, who?).
The Guiding Star - El Primero - as young as ever: The connecting line between (almost) all these timepieces is a single movement, the El Primero, which marks, quite remarkable, and rightfully so, Zenith's dedication to its landmark achievement. It drives almost all of its watches save for the Elite powered ones (qualifier: 'El Primero' seems to refer to the 36'000 VPH escapement, otherwise the Christophe Colomb watches would not qualify).
The movement now is exactly
45 years old and still ticking on and on and on in its almost original configuration. Very few can claim such a classic status, which makes this anniversary all the more remarkable.
Zenith however has not stood still on its laurels, but instead invested into new materials, but for the El Primero movement itself (
silicon escapements, see image)...
... as well as in
new case materials and construction methods, such as the carbon/aluminium/titanium-made case of the
Zenith El Primero Lightweight:
But I guess one of the most influential news was the appointment of a
new CEO, Mr Aldo Magada, formerly Breitling. I have not met him personally, but I had some email exchanges recently. His first decision reportedly was to abandon the non-Zenith movements (i.e. Sellita) and instead to focus on in-house capabilities.
This comes precisely at a time when LVMH watch group's head Jean-Claude Biver announced a
repositioning of LVMH's main watch brands (TAG Heuer, Zenith and Hublot), with Zenith being slotted in as the mechanical center of excellence, focussing on upper-mid to high-end watches.
This comes precisely at a very important time for Zenith: its
150th anniversary in 2015. We have been granted a preview with the
Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot, an aficionado-targetting timepiece with several watchmaking delicacies such as the fusee/chaine-driven force constant mechanism. Please stop by Bruno's excellent images he posted recently
(click here ).
This is not exactly 'upper-middle' market segment, but it reinforces what is even more important if you asks me: the
watchmaking competence which is very much at the core of Zenith's identity.
If this is only a preview, what then could be expect once 2015 is in full force? Ladies and gentlemen, I heard seom whispers of
puristic timepieces which have all ingredients to capture our heart on first view.
Zenith has gone through much ups and downs in the last 10 years. From a sleeping beauty to a 'would-be' rock star (remember Thierry Nataf?) back to a sober lady - quite a journey, with many ups and downs. High tides in the early years of the last decade, lower ones in the later ones (to Sellita or not to Sellita?). Still, all these are signs of insecurity, lack of long term strategy typical for a brand not (yet) having found its ecological niche in the basin full of horological sharks.
This has to stop now.
For a respected and acclaimed brand like Zenith the time is now to concentrate and consistently thrive on core competencies which may prove crucial in a world of economic turbulences, 'watchmaking' over-saturation (in quotation marks because some of which we have seen recently are bona fide astrocities and merely marketing-driven) and upcoming stylish and tasetful smart watches. With a view on upcoming smart watches, I am pretty sure consumers will turn their back (with wallets remaining closed) on marketing-focussed brands only to patronise those who offer great perceived value and content. These are the ones who a most different to an electronic portable device.
With increasingly felt impacts of slowing economic growth and recent regulations in China, uncertainties in the east and in the south, economic stalment in Europe, watch brands will have to do more and better to prove the value of their pieces. Thus I expect further consolidation in the watch industry. Setting the focus now like LVMH has for Zenith, I guess the brand is well-prepared for the upcoming challenges - if it delivers.
Time will tell! But one thing is sure: 2015 won't be a boring year!
I wish you all a peaeful and happy new year 2015, with lots of horological teasing and fulfillment!
All the best,
Magnus
