Ornatus-Mundi presents the second edition of the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones, offering a detailed look at its design and technical features. This post provides valuable insights into how Zenith evolved its collaboration with the iconic band, focusing on the watch's unique aesthetic and horological elements.
(just in case you wonder: the 150th anniversary to celebrate is the one of the watch maker, not the band or the relationship between the two ;-))
9 months ago Zenith presented one of the more controversial watches of its 2014 vintage, the first edition of the
El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute To The Rolling Stones (read about it
here!).
Now, both Zenith as well as the rock band have matured, and thus their relationship becomes more open towards the subtleties... The fruit of this is, sic!, the El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute To The Rolling Stones (the second edition):
The El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones reprises its codes while introducing a very dark, contemporary, rock-style look.
The Rolling Stones II edition is actually a very interesting combination of codes which the Le Locle-based manufacture has been famous for:
- an El Primero movement (more on this a bit further down!)
- dial opening at 11 o'clock, necessitating a rearrangement of the escapement system
- a silicon escapement
- a case crafted from DLC-plated titanium featuring pierced lugs, a design inspired by another icon from the same lineage: the El Primero Lightweight
A remarkable detail with immediately entertaining and mesmerising effect are the hands which echo the shape of the fretboard on the
Fender Telecaster guitar played by Keith Richards. They (as well as the indices) are made of black ruthenium-plated, facetted steel coated with black Superluminova SN:
The hands (together with the indices) actually carry the main burden of achieving the attractiveness of the timepiece. Just let the environmental lighting play with them...
Light can make the hands almost disappear or draw all attention...
In addition, the snailed finish of the minute circle, as well as on the two 30-minute...
... and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o’clock, are hollowed out like a dish, evoking the grooves on vinyl records and thereby contributing to the overall aesthetic coherence of this model.
Zenith, as a dedicated chronometry (more further down!) and chronograph brand, this time took all design efforts to ensure that also this watch features a fully functional time measurement department. First, the rim around the seconds trident even offers a scale for the seconds...,
... second, the chronographs subdials are design such that there is (i) minimal overlap and (ii) no interruption in the scaling. A small but (at least by me) highly appreciated detail!
I mentioned already the case design, let's take a closer look:
That is quite an elaborate case construction (which, as I might hint, will see much more prominent use at Zenith in the future!) composed of a central case band around which a hollowed frame carrying the lugs is wrapped.
The construction in principle is based upon the El Primero Lightweight and as such complicated to achieve. I find it carries several reference to the Lamborghini design language (uops, will Le Brassus forgive me?) and shares with it the emotional dynamics I pretty much appreciate:
The construction is much more palatable from the other side:
On top of the slim bezel btw resides a box-style, slightly domed crystal enabling the light to pour in from the side and thus further enhance legibility.
Further
tipping the scale reveals of course, a display back with a glimpse on the slightly dressed-up movement:
Actually, the DLC coating could eat almost the light in its entirety... We don't mind as this helps focusing on the
essentials...
The essentials, of course, for us is the automatic El Primero 4061 chronograph movement with a beautiful blued column wheel as eye-catcher:
The big news is that the movement is chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute): a novel feature that will from now on apply to all Open models.
Just the rotor wants to tell the owner something ,-)
The Tribute to the Rolling Stones comes with a tributal strap, featuring the embossed Great Britain flag, a flagship of the Stones as well.
The strap actually is composed of a rubber ‘spine’ featuring a Barenia leather insert. Very comfortable and I would guess durable as well!
This brings us straight to the final point, its presence on the wrist:
Using Oliver's (slightly smaller than mine) wrist as a starter, the watch appears actually as large as its 45mm diameter suggests. This I think is mainly attributable to the dark colour in combination with the very slim bezel.
On my wrist however, and here in addition to my dark attire, the picture indeed is a different one. The timepiece has a pleasant presence, a presence that is neither enhanced nor disturbed by the edition's dedicated
individualisation (more on the usage of that term below!) - which I think is a good sign in view of long-term
satisfaction.
Really strong character!
So what do we make of this piece? Zenith has come a long way (really!) from the first to this second limited edition. While the first one was solely geared (be it by intend or accidentally ;-)) towards died-in-the-wool Stones fans (and as such was a much better offering than initially feared by many (including me)), the second one is a watch which very well stands for its own. It is a charismatic timepiece with many, many interesting, entertaining and fascinating facets and details.
Almost like a human being, it changes mood and expression throughout the day, and such adapts to a plethora of wearing situations. Even if one does not bother because of the dedication, if one does not like the stones or homages in general, the individualisation has been done in style and without commanding too much of attention. Thus, the Rolling Stones Tribute well stands on its intrinsic merits.
Now, there is just one more thing: The El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones is a 1,000-piece limited edition. One can rise one's eyebrows about this the one or the other way. On the one hand, there are plenty of these pieces to be grabbed by the collectors. Then, some might feel that 1000 pieces is not a limitation at all (quasi Omega-esque numbers), which finally triggers the question: is this LE necessary?
Feeling lukewarm about the homage but quite enamoured by the watch I am decidedly in the latter camp!
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-05-18 11:17:39 
