MTF
[PuristS]
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Too many questions about Cartier, you have
cgreen,
You have too many questions for any one person to answer.
When did Cartier start using guilloche on their dials and whether it was done in-house or supplied to them by a dial manufacturer.
Guilloche predates watchmaking and wristwatches have been around for a century but mechanised guilloche rose to prominence during Victorian times.
Were there different dial manufacturers that delivered perhaps better quality dials, hand done guilloche?
Yes. Cartier had the wherewithal to afford the best. The hand turned and motor turned rose engines produced much the same results.
Tank and/or Tonneau in platinum with guilloche dial, Breguet hands and a Jaeger or AP movement. Does such a thing exist? And if so does anyone know a ref number(s) and better yet does anyone have photos they can share?
Platinum cases are rare because they are literally hard to make, hard metal.
AP movements are unlikely in Cartier watches although there may some reasons why they may be mentioned. The Vacheron Constantin 1120 , Audemars Piguet 2120, Patek Philippe 28-255, and Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 are all the same base movement,
Jaeger-LeCoultre has never finished or used the 920 movement in JLC watches. When AP sold its shares in JLC, it retained the ownership and rights to manufacture the JLC cal.920.
European Watch and Clock Company was supplying movements but I've recently seen a movement in an auction catalog written as International Watch and Clock Co. Is this perhaps a mistake or is this another company?
Different companies. EWC was formed to supply movements to Cartier New York. USA tax laws put heavy import tax on European whole watches, especially 18K gold cases. Imported European movements had low tax and Cartier watches encased in USA, especially 14K cases had low taxation.
To that end, why are EWC movements so sought after by collectors? Are they robust calibers or just something that is part of Cartier's history and thus desirable from a standpoint outside of their technical soundness?
The latter seems plausible.
Finally, I saw a platinum Tank from the '40s but it comes with a deployant clasp in pink and white gold...could this be original? When would Cartier have begun using such a clasp system?
Finally, I saw a platinum Tank from the '40s but it comes with a deployant clasp in pink and white gold...could this be original? When would Cartier have begun using such a clasp system?
Unknown when it started but platinum has characteristics not suited for deployant clasp: too hard and not elastic enough?
Regards,
MTF
This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-11-19 01:27:10
More posts:
Guilloche dials
Morning all, Hope you're enjoying a great weekend. I'm turning to the forum for a bit of help in the vintage world. I'd like to know when Cartier started using guilloche on their dials and whether it was done in-house or supplied to them by a dial manufac...
Too many questions about Cartier, you have
cgreen, You have too many questions for any one person to answer. When did Cartier start using guilloche on their dials and whether it was done in-house or supplied to them by a dial manufacturer. Guilloche predates watchmaking and wristwatches have been ...
Wow! Thank you!
MTF, Thank you very much for your response, this information is tremendously helpful. I've emailed Cartier NA to inquire about this particular piece and will get back to you with the results. The movement and inside case back are signed EWC. I knew they m...
Clarification about EWC
cgreen, Just to clarify. The original EWC made movements for Cartier for export. I believe Cartier New York encased themselves to avoid tax on fully assembled watches imported into USA. I've seen watches in UK also marked EWC movement but I'm not sure if ...
Thank you again/Louis Cartier
Thank you again MTF, great information. I read that once Louis Cartier passed away in the early 1940s the company sort of took a turn, (that his artistic vision was what really drove the company forward) is that true? In looking to acquire a vintage Carti...
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I do appreciate that parts are becoming harder to come by with the very old pieces. I was recently advised of the same problem by the folks at Patek when inquiring about a 1960s piece. Just the same, I've always liked the older pieces and would like to pu...
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MTF, Thanks again for all of your assistance with everything, I sincerely appreciate it. I have a question about the Santos Dumont, particularly the limited edition piece in platinum from 1994. Who would have made that movement? Forgetting the limited edi...
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Omega supplied a deployant clasp with . . .
. . . at least some of their Marine waterproof models in the '30s, so it's not unlikely for Cartier to offer the same a decade later. Granted, such clasps would be very uncommon, but the possibility exists. Cordially, Art
So good to hear from you, Dje!! . . .
. . . and thanks for the update - I've seen Omega Marine deployants from the '30s, but nothing earlier. Warmest, Art
