Blancpain finishes the 1315's bevels by hand. Here's why.

Feb 04, 2025,15:43 PM
 

One thing that stands out to me about Blancpain is their dedication to movement decoration and finishing. It’s not just about what you can see, but also what’s hidden underneath the bridges. In their price class against direct competitors, I believe they’re one of the leaders in this regard. However, as of recent the decoration methods of one movement have been questioned, and that is Cal. 1315 and the anglage/beveling of the bridges.

Now, I must preface this post. Even though I’ll be picking through what Tim Mosso has had to say recently about this movement’s decoration, I greatly respect him, his knowledge, opinions, and contributions to this industry and hobby. I’ll always enjoy his reviews and streams on YouTube and enjoy reading his articles published over at Quill & Pad. After much research and thought put into this, I’ve simply reached the opposite conclusion here. The Blancpain Cal. 1315 and related movements have mechanically started bevels, but they are then manually finished by craftspeople using handheld rotary tools. With that said, let’s dive into what’s behind that, point by point.

Point 1 - Rounded exterior angles does not indicate a fully mechanical process for anglage:

One of two main points against the 1315’s anglage that Tim Mosso has made is that because the exterior angles where bevels converge are rounded instead of sharp, they’re finished mechanically from start to finish. This logic is either black or white, if an exterior angle is sharp it’s finished by hand, but if it’s rounded it’s finished mechanically. We know this is not the case, as many brands offer sharp exterior angles that are completely machine made, as evidenced by the milling marks and imperfections left in the bevel. Examples of this can be found in watches from H. Moser & Cie, as pictured below.



Photo by JX Su



Photo by JX Su

Here we have sharp exterior angles as pictured on two different movements from Moser, Cal. HMC 324, and Cal. HMC 902. Due to the flat, sheer cut appearance, visible milling marks, it’s clear to see that this is completely machined anglage from start to finish.

It’s not just Moser that can create sharp exterior angles with a fully mechanized process. Citizen displays the same ability with Cal. 0270, again with the same flat appearance and visible milling marks throughout.



Photo by JX Su



Photo by JX Su

This then raises a question. Why are the bridges and exterior angles rounded the way they are on the Blancpain Cal. 1315? I believe the answer lies in the speed and ease of finishing while using a rotary tool for polishing. Most of us that are mechanically inclined know this well, but what happens when you hold a buffing/polishing wheel on a sharp corner for too long? It dulls the point and becomes rounded. Due to this, while using a handheld rotary tool for polishing bevels, it requires more time and care to maintain sharp exterior angles without dulling the points in any way. As the saying goes, “time is money”, and in Blancpain’s case it’s faster and more efficient to polish rounded bridges by hand with a rotary tool than if those bridges had several sharp exterior angles to work around. I believe this is how Blancpain provides a superior level of anglage while maintaining its price positioning, even comparing favorably against brands positioned higher, like Audemars Piguet.

Point 2 - A bevel appearing to roll up onto the surface of the bridge does not indicate a fully mechanical process for anglage:

Tim’s second point against the 1315’s anglage is that the bevels appear to roll up onto the surface of the bridge in some areas, therefore they’re finished mechanically from start to finish. Again, this doesn’t tell us the whole story and is too black and white. Let’s explore two more examples which show why.

First, we’ll start with an example that has passed Tim’s checks before as having bevels that are polished by hand using handheld rotary tools. This movement is the Girard-Perregaux Cal. GP01800 as used in the 42mm Laureato, specifically we’ll be looking at the balance cock and its anglage.



Photo by Jenni Elle

Here we see an example of an extremely rounded point along with a bevel that noticeably rolls up onto the bridge, especially when compared to the opposite side of the balance cock. Because of this, are Girard-Perregaux producing their bevels by machine exclusively? No, it’s generally regarded that Girard-Perregaux uses handheld rotary tools to complete the final polishing on their bevels. Let’s look at another example though, one where it is entirely undoubtable as to how the anglage is produced.



Photo by JX Su

Above, we see Patek Philippe Cal. 26-330, a modern Patek Philippe Seal offering from the company. While not exaggerated like the Girard-Perregaux above, if we look to the right of the jewel for the escape wheel, we see where the polishing for the bevel comes up onto the surface of the bridge. It then continues this way down to the angle at the bottom and can still be seen on the opposite side of the bridge. What’s more telling that the polishing for the bevel is indeed on the surface of the bridge is the point where the Côtes de Genève stops, and where the point of the exterior angle begins. There’s a discrepancy between the two, which is in contrast to the rest of the anglage of the movement.

Again, I’ll ask, does this mean that Patek Philippe is producing their bevels by machine exclusively? Of course not. Patek Philippe uses handheld rotary tools to complete the final polishing, and Tim has stated this in his reviews, just like he’s stated this for Girard-Perregaux. Personally, I believe the rounded and generally wide nature of the anglage on the Blancpain Cal. 1315 lends itself to appearing drawn up on the bridges a little more than other movements, but as we’ve considered, this does not disqualify Blancpain from using handheld rotary tools to complete these bevels.

Point 3 - There are examples of variance and inconsistency in Cal. 1315’s finishing:

What got me started in making this post to begin with was my own purchase of a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, a grade 23 Titanium model, Ref. 5000-1210.



Self taken photo

A short while into my ownership, I noticed that on one side of one of the bridges, there were some milling marks in the bevel that hadn’t been fully polished out. This got me curious about other examples displaying the same, and indeed, I found another owner who noticed similar milling marks on their movement, but in different bevels to my own. For reference, this was also in a Bathyscaphe, a ceramic model. But, anglage inconsistencies aren’t just limited just to Bathyscaphe models. An example of the new 5010 Fifty Fathoms which Tim had in and reviewed showed milling marks in a completely different bevel to my example, or the example of the other owner I’ve talked with.



Self taken photo



Photo by indignantdenial



Photo by Tim Mosso

With milling marks that weren’t fully polished on three different examples, made in three different years of production, and on different bevels for each example, is the anglage on the Cal. 1315 really executed entirely with the consistency of automated machines? I have no doubt that if we carefully examine more examples, more inconsistencies will show on different bevels still, and these will further the answer to this question.

It’s also important to note that this isn’t exclusive to Blancpain. Modern Patek Philippe examples also show milling marks that weren’t polished completely and weren’t caught by QC. Let’s look at examples of Patek Philippe Cal. 240, Cal. 324, and Cal. 31-260.



Photo by JX Su



Photo by Hafiz J Mehmood



Photo by JX Su



Photo by JX Su

As discussed in the second point, we know Patek Philippe is employing the use of handheld rotary tools for the final polishing of their anglage. Because of this fact, I’m a believer that when milling marks are present in rounded and well-polished anglage, it’s a result of the craftsperson’s natural human error. I don’t think that it’s a cause to believe that the bevels have been entirely mechanically finished.

Point 4 - Blancpain has multiple stations with handheld rotary tools for anglage in their Le Sentier manufacture:

Le Sentier is the home of Frederic Piguet, now doing business as Manufacture Blancpain since Swatch Group officially integrated the two in 2010. Here, Blancpain has most of their manufacturing grunt. Le Sentier is responsible for the production of most movement components, the decoration of those components, assembling components and whole movements, timing and adjustment to five or six positions, and the final casing of movements with their dials, hands, and watch cases.

Let’s take a look inside the decoration department of Le Sentier, which shows something interesting in regard to the finishing of their anglage.



Photo by Panoteck



Photo by Panoteck

Here we can see four stations in Blancpain’s decoration department, and all four have a plethora of handheld rotary tools, along with Leica microscopes. If we look at the cabinet next to the stations, it’s clearly labeled “ANGLAGE", giving us an irrefutable hint as to what these rotary tools are being used for.



Photo by Panoteck

On the opposite side of the room from these stations, we can see a fifth set of rotary tools, albeit unused at the time this tour was conducted. Something to note though are the binders which contain the technical documentation of the decoration of each movement. Included in these binders are the documentation for Cal. 1315 and 1315DD, along with related calibers 13R0, 13R3, and 13R5.



Photo by Panoteck



Photo by Panoteck

The recent figures for Blancpain’s annual output are around 20,000 to 22,000 watches per year. For the sake of argument, let’s say it’s 20,000 watches being produced at Le Sentier, and they have the four stations for anglage running 231 days out of the year accounting for weekends and 30 other days off during the year. With nine hour working days, this would put each craftsperson needing to complete two to three movement’s bridges every hour. If they use the fifth set of rotary tools when needed, two movement’s bridges per station per hour is doable. Personally, I don’t think this is outside the realm of possibility for Blancpain to achieve, especially when the 1315 and any movements based on it have rounded corners which will help facilitate the process of finishing them in a prompt manner.

Concluding Thoughts:

Everything considered above is how I reached my conclusion. Blancpain employs the same methods as many haute horlogerie marks today, mechanically starting the bevels, but completing the final polishing using handheld rotary tools. All these considerations also broadened my outlook on assessing the finishing of movements. One can come to a more complete assessment and appreciation of a movement’s decoration when you also observe the fine details of what competing brands produce. Drawing comparisons based on those observations, you can tell if a brand is delivering a product deserving of being called “haute horlogerie”, or if the decoration is merely perfunctory.

In the case of Blancpain and Cal. 1315, I don’t think any of it can be considered perfunctory, both technically and visually. Even though it was introduced back in 2007, it remains ahead of the curve with its 120-hour power reserve thanks to three mainspring barrels, and the update to a silicon balance spring providing amagnetic properties to the caliber. The decoration also distinguishes itself, like I mentioned in the outset, it’s not just about what you can see, but also what’s hidden underneath the bridges. Cal. 1315 is finished in a wholistic way, and doesn’t have compromises in its screws, locating pegs, wheels, mainspring barrels, and perlage.

For owners, I think Blancpain makes a watch one can be proud of. For people considering a Blancpain, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with your purchase. For Tim, if you’d like to discuss any of this at greater length in a PM, feel free to reach out. Thanks for reading.



Photo by The Naked Watchmaker



Photo by The Naked Watchmaker



Photo by The Naked Watchmaker



Photo by Bruce Williams

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Comments: view entire thread 

I have absolutely no expertise in identifying how a movement is polished and or finished.

 
By: aperna : February 3rd, 2025-18:01
What I do have experience in is that I own two models that have the movement 1315 and the only thing I can say is that they are outstanding time pieces with accuracy in the plus 1/ -1/sec per day

There is no battle.

 
By: Ketsui : February 3rd, 2025-18:14
Tim is a member of this forum, and he's made comments as to the 1315's finishing on this forum. Because of this, I thought this would be the platform to post my findings. If this post is taken with aggression, or as a challenge, that is absolutely not the... 

Long and deep reasoning, however as per the classical term of “hand beveling”, the use of a rotary tool is machine finish!

 
By: ZSHSZ : February 3rd, 2025-18:31
Hand beveling is done manually, with the use of Gentian polishing wood, a la Dufour, just to name one. Nevertheless more than enough for my requirements…

This is true.

 
By: Ketsui : February 3rd, 2025-19:03
A rotary tool is a modern way of facilitating the process of anglage, it's certainly not what Philippe Dufour, Rexhep Rexhepi, Romain Gauthier, and other independent watchmakers employ. To clarify for the community, by hand in this instance refers more to... 

Wow, thanks for all the research! I very much believe the same from the simple fact that the finishing is so inconsistent it must be done by hand 🤣

 
By: Fastwong : February 3rd, 2025-18:49
Just from my own FF I could see enough inconsistencies in how corners/angles are executed that I figured it had to be done by hand. It's a little all over the place and the rotary tools must be pretty aggressive but I still prefer the imperfect work done ... 

For sure.

 
By: Ketsui : February 3rd, 2025-22:56
If we pooled together all of our examples of the 1315 and related calibers, we'd likely spot plenty of little differences in the finishing between them. It's endearing in a way though, showing a bit of the human touch.

Does anyone make a precision robot that can polish? If not, let's create one and license it out.

 
By: enjoythemusic : February 3rd, 2025-19:22
Could precision laser be used too? Perhaps a combo or additive, laser, and polish to create 'humanly impossible' multi-angles?

I have heard of such a device.

 
By: indignantdenial : February 4th, 2025-00:19
But I do not know who makes them. I have heard that Omega has used it, like on their Moowatch calibres that have the sort of mirrored anglage. I still don't really know much else about it. Might be worth looking into!

There are already many ways

 
By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : February 4th, 2025-21:47
5 axis CNC can achieve sub micron precision. Femtolaser ablation can almost reach the same precision without heating and melting. LIGA/electro-forming is another method for creating complex geometries like spirals and gears. There's a universe of technolo... 

Wow, mega thread here.

 
By: indignantdenial : February 3rd, 2025-21:32
Thanks for putting this up and for putting the work in. It's very convincing. I think that we're in good standing—as you say, we can be proud of our watches. However, the intricacies of the finishing process with the microscopes and binders are really fas... 

It's not fair to complain that the brands are inconsistent when we're not consistently using the same photographer...

 
By: patrick_y : February 3rd, 2025-22:55
A lot of the data in this article I can agree with, and a lot I don't agree with. And perhaps more importantly, a watchmaker would probably agree with some aspects of the text and disagree with some aspects of the text. Furthermore, almost all the high en... 

I could've probably used photos exclusively from SJX and still furthered most of my points, especially had I dug through even more of his reviews than I already have.

 
By: Ketsui : February 3rd, 2025-23:27
My definition of "by hand" in this case is mentioned in what I initially wrote, and in my comment to ZSHSZ, the use of handheld rotary tools by craftspeople to polish the anglage after machining. This "by hand" isn't utilized across the board with high en... 

Totally agree with this.

 
By: indignantdenial : February 4th, 2025-00:14
Lack of fine finish is evident on a lot of AP pieces as you say, especially on examples of the 3120 that I've come across. JLC is another super obivous contender for this category—their bevels more closely resemble Nomos' more than anything, since they ar... 

Thank you for sharing your thoughts.

 
By: patrick_y : February 4th, 2025-19:54
I'd rather not go into the details here. But I'll answer your question partially... Also, I am not trying to be critical here of our poster, this poster has made an amazing first post on our forum and I am absolutely thrilled to have Ketsui with us! Thril... 

Thank you for the welcome, Patrick.

 
By: Ketsui : February 5th, 2025-00:34
I appreciate it. This was a complex post to put together, and is a complex topic in general like you mentioned. It took me some time to compile in a way where I was happy with the end result. To further clarify for the community, in my first paragraph for... 

You're most welcome.

 
By: patrick_y : February 5th, 2025-01:03
I know it's a lot to type out. AND imagine when the website crashes or an error happens! Yikes! Sometimes you lose all your work! Thanks again for your contribution! And thanks again for being a member here!

The JLC finishing is a little sad.

 
By: patrick_y : February 4th, 2025-00:42
The JLC finishing is indeed very sad. Just a flat beveled edge but completely matte and unpolished. Human "error" implied it was a quality issue. But I see where you're coming from now. Thanks for explaining.

Interesting.

 
By: Ketsui : February 4th, 2025-02:51
If you have a source for this I'd love to see it, because I haven't stumbled across that yet.

I don't think it's public info

 
By: AndCavanaugh : February 6th, 2025-16:01
There is an exploded view of the 1315 on the CHH website , if that adds credibility to what I'm saying.

Side note

 
By: m2 : February 4th, 2025-04:41
It’s kind of weird to make a new account on a forum and keep referencing one member 😂 I know you’re not trying to be mean or something, but it’s still a weird post to make. The hentai avatar doesn’t help lol

"hentai avatar" is crazy 😭

 
By: AndCavanaugh : February 4th, 2025-06:30
I'm pretty sure it's Rei from Neon Genesis Evangelion Limited Edition G-Shocks--there is also a TV show or something too

Super contestable.

 
By: indignantdenial : February 4th, 2025-07:08
I think it's context-sensitive; otherwise fan art of Space Marines in the Warhammer universe would mean someone's horny just as well as highly suggestive art. There's a marked difference. ...  

Haha I was kidding

 
By: m2 : February 4th, 2025-07:09
But ironically the first image I generated with Midjourney was warhammer stuff 😂

My avatar isn't fan art, nor hentai as you claim.

 
By: Ketsui : February 4th, 2025-16:49
This is an official work made by Yoshiyuki Sadamoto, the character designer and founding member of the studio Gainax, which produced the TV animation Neon Genesis Evangelion in 1995. I like what I like outside of watches. Does that mean I can't express th... 

Good job.

 
By: Ketsui : February 4th, 2025-17:29
Thanks for showing everyone here your true nature lol, god forbid people are into things that you aren't.

To Be Clear About This

 
By: Tim_M : February 4th, 2025-12:09
99% of beveling that looks rounded and mirrored starts with a machine cut. This is true of Patek, Blancpain - almost all of them. I've been in these factories and at low volume - think F.P. Journe or Moser - the first pass is done by a person holding the ... 

Thanks for the reply, Tim.

 
By: Ketsui : February 4th, 2025-18:04
I appreciate your further insights and information on this topic. I wasn't aware that there are some hand guided steps even if a final pass with a rotary tool isn't performed, that's helpful to know. Definitely, I think it can't be disputed that there's p... 

We had an actual response from Blancpain recently.

 
By: Tim_M : February 4th, 2025-23:39
I believe the post was here, in fact, and a member reached out to Blancpain about the 1315. Blancpain's response clarified that the 1315 isn't considered part of its artisanal horology series and relies partly or entirely on automation. Best, Tim

I'm not finding that here...

 
By: Ketsui : February 5th, 2025-00:19
In searching with multiple keyword combinations (even as basic as "1315"), I'm not finding that post, neither in WPS's search nor Google using quotes around the keywords for direct results. If you have a link to that handy, or some more info regarding the... 

Neither have I.

 
By: indignantdenial : February 5th, 2025-02:59
I've reached out to BP directly to no avail. I'm surprised they nominally got back to someone about this.

Since the original post is partly about me, I thought I'd share this email from a client who reached out to Blancpain directly on this matter

 
By: Tim_M : February 5th, 2025-14:56
I've removed his name, but you can see that he validated my shift towards describing the caliber 1315 as a mechanically finished movement. My continued suspicion is that the 1315 and old Moonwatch sapphire sandwich caliber 1863 - which featured some glori...  

Tim, thanks for sharing this email with us. This ultimately raises more questions in my eyes.

 
By: Ketsui : February 6th, 2025-02:53
It sounds like Blancpain's definition of hand finishing when it comes to anglage is what's practiced in the Le Brassus farmhouse, utilizing metal files and Gentian wood, time honored hand laid bevels. It also appears that this is only practiced on "high c... 

Wow, interesting

 
By: m2 : February 6th, 2025-09:03
Regardless of how they get there, the result is nice for a watch that goes for less than a used sub on secondary.

Interesting and confusing 😂 Totally makes sense that swatch would seek to automate this process. However, I'm surprised then that Omega didn't continue forward with that same level of finishing on the new 3861.

 
By: Fastwong : February 6th, 2025-16:24
Given the substantial price hike, it seems like any additional cost would have been more than covered. That said, I believe Swatch has also figured out how to automate the sharp internal angles and polishing on wheels and there have been back and forth di... 

Regardless of the exactitude of the 1315 movement finishing,this thread is reason I come to WPS!

 
By: onnomon : February 14th, 2025-18:29
Horology is truly a subtle sport involving detail and process. But I think what we really mean by "hand finishing" is "Swiss elves with wooden sticks". This discussion has really opened the spectrum of OCD...ahem...price category...ahem...polish. Now I wa...