SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Parmigiani (M.Teillol-Foo & PuristSPro Team)
Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: Tonda 1950 Diamond-Set
Personally, I prefer the unadorned Tonda 1950 but the rules of the report is to mention last year's novelties. Still, one cannot help being attracted to the Manufacture movement. The ultra-thin automatic movement is 30 mm (13 ¼ lignes) in diameter and 2.6 mm thick – dimensions so compact, in fact, that a large number of future mechanical additions are possible within the same case, which measures 7.80 mm and 39 mm in diameter.
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Jean-Marc Jacot hinted as much for the future.......
2013 Brand Themes:
Mr Parmigiani showing off his 15-Day Clock tribute to music
The three main themes or messages from Parmigiani Fleurier are:
1. NEW BOUTIQUE CONCEPT - L'Atelier Parmigiani & Studio.
Know-How: Atelier is the cemtre of future Parmigiani retail stores. Every visitor is received by a watchmaker expert in Haute Horlogerie. A place to discuss and understand the brand, as well as the centre for customer service.
Choice: Exhibits all the collections with easy access to both the simple models and Parmigiani Fleurier's grand complications.
Style: Atelier puts the watchmaker at its heart. Based at the centre of a unique oval bench, custom-built to provide him with easy access to his numerous watchmaking tools, the craftsman can offer watch-lovers explanations and advice.
2. BRAND IDENTITY - Mesure et Demesure.
"Between Exact and Exultant, the brand's identity embodies the constant search for balance. Between mastering the knowledge of ancestral watchmakers and the freedom of daring interpretations, between the absolute rigour of movement and unlimited curiosity for the cultures of the world, Parmigiani Fleurier cultivates its commitment to independence, a supreme creator of liberty." Having the financial backing of the Sandoz Family Foundation helps this objective.
3. INTEGRATED MANUFACTURE - Chronology of constitution.
Sandoz Family Foundation gradually accumulated the constituent companies and workshops since 2000 to form an integrated manufacture:
Atokalpa; bar turning constituent components of the escapement and the regulating organ - in all around twenty parts - including the escapement wheel, pallet fork, plate, balance and balance-spring.
Les Artisans Boîtiers; complex cases in precious metal (18 carat gold, 950 platinum or 950 palladium), steel or titanium.
Elwin; bar turning for watchmaking (mainly balance staffs).
Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier SA; specialised in the "High-end" and "Prestige" market segments and creates high-quality movements. Its creation also signals a commitment to pursuing the private label activity that Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps began.
Quadrance et Habillage; production of high-end dials.
2013 Star of the Show: 15-Day Clock
2013 ediiton of the Parmigiani 15-day Clock
In 2012, Parmigiani Fleurier re-interpreted the table clock – a great watchmaking classic that has been manufactured by the Fleurier brand since it was founded. I quite liked the clean look of the 2012 edition.
In 2009, the watchmakers in the new Parmigiani Fleurier department of complication development searched through the brand's vaults and discovered antique timepieces and clocks restored by Michel Parmigiani. They were impressed by the perfect finishing work that had been carried out by generations of clockmakers before them. To create this harmony and beauty on a microscopic scale is a watchmaker's dream, and commands great respect. Parmiginiani Fleurier possess expertise at both ends of the scale.
This 2013 edition of the 15-Day Clock continues the theme of Music and the art of Marquetry.
Other Novelties 2013:
Tourbillon Woodstock Edition (USA)
A Tribute to Rock music and that Woodstock Moment.
Each star is hand cut marquetry; the art was learnt through decades of restoration work at Parmigiani.
Tourbillon Woodrock Edition (UK)
Of course, Brit Rock and Brit Pop were not forgotten
In 2011, Parmigiani Fleurier signed a unique partnership with the Confederação Brasileira de Futebol (CBF), and became the official watchmaking partner of this legendary Brazilian football federation. This also provides the opportunity for Parmigiani to create a new line of products celebrating this partnership: the CBF Collection.
The Pershing CBF - Ladies' and Men's Collection
The men's model features a titanium case and a choice of a white gold or rose gold bezel. The dial showcases the three colours of the CBF – gold, blue and green – each used in perfect harmony. The dark blue of the CBF is used to pick out the contour of the javelin-shaped hands, and the 5 green stars are also featured, marking the perimeter of the small seconds index.
Just like the CBF, which also administers the women's football teams, this new Pershing CBF line also boasts a model for women.
A titanium case is complemented by a magnificent jewel-set rose gold bezel, giving an elegant feminine touch which is so rare on a sports watch. The white mother of pearl dial is enhanced with rose gold numerals and indices.
The concept behind the Transforma, unveiled in 2011, is for a single watch head to be transformed into three different configurations: the classic wristwatch; the elegant pocket watch, and finally the timeless table clock.
For 2013, the Transforma CBF assembly is available with two watch heads instead of one. The first watch head is a chronograph, as with the original Transforma. This modern piece features a sporty carbon case and graphite-plated dial. The three emblematic colours of the CBF are discreetly featured here, on both the chronometer counter hands and the tachometer numerals. The Brazilian team's five symbolic green victory stars decorate the dial surround.
The second watch head included is an Annual Calendar, using the movement from the Tonda Quator but featuring a new dial, custom designed to reflect the symbolism of the partnership.
The Transforma CBF is delivered in a complete and inseparable set:
Two watch heads: Chronograph and Annual Calendar
Three possible transformations: Wristwatch; Pocket Watch; Table Clock
Toric Quaestor Labyrinthe
Hand-wound. 72-hour power reserve. Calibre 13’’’ - 29.30 mm. Frequency: 3 Hz – 21,600 Vib/h.
35 jewels, minute repeater on 2 "cathedral" gongs with chime rhythm regulator flywheel, device for disconnecting time-setting while the chime is operating, rhodium-plated bridges with Côtes de Genève, hand-polished bevelling and backing, steel parts circular-grained lengthwise.
Jade discs are cut.
Parmigiani Bugatti Watch
Not a novelty but always good to see a pink gold version.....