The PuristSPro Team is pleased to tender the SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Summary Report.
This is an edited, collaborative effort by many authors and photographers, which is reflected in the bylines of each of the 16 Brand sections.
It is not meant to be a directory listing of every novelty and sub-variants for every brand shown at SIHH. In short, it is the Essence of SIHH 2013.
Our moderators attended for various durations and on different days, to distil the essence of this premiere haute horlogerie show for trade and media. The emphasis is on the key brand messages and thema as SIHH is an opportunity for the brand executives to explain their direction for 2013.
In later and more detailed reports, our community and moderators would have had time to assimilate and cogitate upon the wonderful watches to make cogent discourse with Passion Opinion and Information.
Meanwhile, we invite you to enjoy the initial impressions and beauty of SIHH 2013.
To post comments, please click on the link at the bottom of the post to get redirected to respective brand's discussion forum
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 20:31:47 This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-04-17 20:51:01
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: A.Lange and Sohne (Fr-X. Overstake & PuristSPro Team)
Last Years' (2012) Star of the Show: Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon
2013 Themes: Tribute to the A. Lange & Sohne Pocket Watches
3 new movements and 7 novelties.
The aesthetical approach of this year is very interesting to observe with three watches (Grande Complication and the two 1815) inspired by pocket watches from the past. The two complicated watches do not use the big date display but on the other hand, this display remains one of the key parts of Lange DNA as the Grand Lange 1 WG and "Lumen" remind us.
We were not expecting to see in 2013 some watches of the new collection. Actually, I would have imagined the Grande Complication debut in 2014 (20th anniversary of the first collection) or in 2015 (200th anniversary of F.A.Lange birth).
Lange presented 7 novelties including variations of existing models what can be considered as a very reasonable figure. Lange is a small company which roughly produces around 4500 watches per year and in this context, the key indictor is the number of new movements.
If we analyse the new collection, we can find 3 new movements including the most impressive one ever produced by Lange in a wristwatch.
Grande Complication; New movement.
1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar; New movement.
1815 up and down; New movement.
Grand Lange 1 Black dial; movement already existing.
Grand Lange 1 Lumen; movement already existing.
Saxonia Annual Calendar; movement already existing.
Saxonia Automatic with diamond-set bezel; movement already existing.
If we put aside the very specific case of the Grande Complication, which will be produced at a very slow rhythm (one per year), the two other new movements deserve a closer look.
2013 Star of the Show: 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar
The movement L101.1 of the 1815 Rattrapante PC is for me, one of the most gorgeous ever produced by Lange. It is not only a question of finishings but also of lay-out. The split-second system creates an unusual view of the movement... Double-Split included.
The play of light on the gorgeous movement changes the view.
Pink Gold on wrist
Other Novelties 2013:
It is not so easy to speak about the Grande Complication and to give my own feelings. I could see the watch in its cabinet, I saw it working including the Foudroyante but I didn't wear it nor handle it. Pictures were not allowed. The watch is obviously not achieved and I don't know what is exactly missing. We can understand comments from some who thought that Lange should not have unveiled a watch that is not ready but I think that the time was the right one.
First of all, we are speaking about a superlative watch which requires 1 year to be assembled. Only 6 will be produced.
Secondly, if the production starts now, the first watch will be delivered in 2014... which is perfect to celebate the 20th anniversary of the first collection.
Thirdly, the Grande Complication has a key role in Lange communication. In that sense, the sooner, the better.
Of course, the inspiration of the pocket watch 42500 is obvious. That watch was displayed at the Lange booth at the 2010 SIHH and at that time, we knew that a big surprise would come.
The Grande Complication needed 7 years of development but we don't find this kind of information using the movement reference: it doesn't follow the usual Lange nomenclature (L.1902): 1902 is the year when the 42500 was sold to a resident of Vienna for 5.600 marks.
You will need to spend a bit more to purchase its 2013 version because we are very close to the 2.000.000 EUR. Huge figures? Maybe... but at this level, figures have a different "meaning".
The most tricky part for Lange will be, despite this price, to select the happy 6 owners. A lot of care and psychology will be required to explain the choices to the omitted people!
One interesting point is to see that the dial does not feature the big date system. It is also the case of the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. A new trend? I see it as a tribute to the classic pocket watch which leads to a new way to organize the dial lay-out. Moreover the big date system requires room and in very complicated watches, any gain of room for manoeuver is welcome.
The case is bulky (50mm with a height of 20,3mm) and I can imagine the weight of the watch is heavy too. The lugs have a special shape in order to make the watch wearable: they seem to "dive". I also understand some comments about these dimensions. The result would have been even more beautiful with a more contained size. But we also have to take into account the way the German watchmakers structure their movements.
Anyway, I hope to be able one day to see it completed, to put it on my wrist and to enjoy it at least a few seconds to experience the feelings to have the most complicated Lange wristwatch on my wrist. Sure that it would be an unforgettable moment!
1815 Up Down
The watch is very different from the "classic" version.
First of all the case is smaller: 39mm vs 40mm.
Secondly the case doesn't have the same shape: look at the bezel which doesn't strictly extend the case side.
An more important: the movement L051.2 offers a larger power reserve (72 hours) which justifies the power reserve indicator.
Despite its reference, the caliber L051.2 of the 1815 up and down is different from the L051.1 of the 1815. It has a larger power reserve (72 hours) which gives a justification for the use of the power reserve display.
But even more important, it gives another proof of a new trend firstly observed with the Saxonia Thin: the handwind movements have a new lay-out and the 3/4 plate doesn't hide the click, the ratchet and the crown wheel.
Of course we can regret to lose the purity of the 3/4 plate. But let's face it: with more visible parts, the movement is more enjoyable... and we also have ther addition of the small planetary gear train of the power reserve indicator.
So this 1815 up and down can't be considered as a "mere" 1815 with the addition of a complication: it is a true new watch.
The Grand Lange 1 Lumen was unveiled at a Pre-SIHH event.
When the light conditions change, the dial becomes lighter or darker:
The 3 remaining watches even if they don't produce the same feeling of surprise than the watches with new movements also deserve a closer look.
Grand Lange 1 White Gold - Black Dial
Actually, it is much more than the a Grand Lange 1 with a black dial. This black dial has a lot of subtle details.
First of all, it is not a deep black dial: it was closer to anthracite grey rather than pure black. Moreover there is a small contrast between the colour of the subdials and the colour of the main part of the dial. It is due to the specific finishings of these subdials which create sunrays reflection.
Secondly, it features luminous index and hands. It is not the come-back of the previous Grand Lange 1 "Luminous". This Grand Lange 1 is much more elegant and refined. I appreciated these luminous details which can't be found in the first three Grand Lange 1.
And, last point, the dark colour of the dial makes it a bit smaller on the wrist than the light dial Grand Lange 1: the watch becomes even more balanced, being a bit between the classic Lange 1 and the last year Grand Lange 1.
Saxonia Annual Calendar
The Saxonia Annual Calendar in Platinum gives us the opportunity to enjoy one more time the L085.1 Sax-O-Mat movement. Sadly, this iconic 3/4 rotor automatic movement is only available now in the Lange collection with the automatic calendar watches.
38,5mm is a good size for this kind of watch.
The new Platinum version is more than just a change of case material. It appears to be really different when compared with the white gold version. The rhodiumed gold hands create a beautiful combination with the solid silver rhodium dial.
Saxonia Automatic with Diamond Set Bezel
In 2012, we were presented a Saxonia Automatic with a diamond set bezel and a MOP (mother-of-pearl) dial.
This year, Lange unveiled a similar watch in a 38,5mm case without the MOP dial in order to meet the expectations of some male customers who look for a precious watch with a less feminine design.
The central rotor movement:
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in Lange forum, http://alang.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-10/pi-5718708/ti-843433/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 19:17:42
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Audemars Piguet (M. Cornella & PuristSPro Team)
Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: Royal Oak 40th Anniversary Edition
1) Tradition and Complications.
2) Women's Collection.
2013 embarks upon a new period for AP. Francois-Henry Bennahmias, who started his illustrious career at AP in 1996, was officially nominated as the new company CEO. Without question, Francois has a road map for years to come.
For Audemars Piguet, 2013 also continues the work started in 2011 of brand repositioning. The Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore will not overshadow the brand itself. New novelties show a continued development of the Jules Audemars line, particularly within the Women's collection. A renewed focus has been placed upon the emphasis of core values. One such example is the prominence of high complications, an AP specialty since the origins of the company in 1875. There are several new Grande Complications, as well as the Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph.
This year shows a strengthening of the foundations at AP. The dealer network is being solidified. AP remains committed to completing present orders and meeting current demand. Customer service and the buying experience remain top priorities.
Which leads to the underlying theme of the 2013 Collection - Tradition / Complications, and the Women's Collection.
2013 Star of the Show: Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication
Perhaps no greater tribute to the 20th Anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore could be made than the new series of Grande Complication pieces. Here is the titanium case with black ceramic bezel version:
Other Novelties 2013:
The brand has been working diligently to bring clear and concise definition to its core collection, while constructing the road map for the foreseeable future. I'm convinced the strategy is solid, and we will enjoy great things from AP for years to come. More on these important matters soon.
Tradition and Complications
Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph
Titanium case with white gold bezel:
Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual Calendar: Three New Editions
Three new Royal Oak Offshore perpetual calendar pieces were released in small limited editions. The case size is 42mm, and is offered in platinum (10 pieces), pink gold (25 pieces), and titanium (35 pieces).
Royal Oak Offshore Diver Ceramic
This version has orange accents on the dial and is the first Diver to include an exhibition sapphire caseback, allowing the manufacture Calibre 3120 to be viewed
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
The 44mm Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is now offered with a ceramic case middle to match the ceramic bezel. This watch is essentially the same as the current forged carbon case / ceramic bezel 44mm Offshore, but is now all ceramic:
AP has been hard at work to ensure that the finishing work applied to their ceramic parts is equal to that of their steel parts, which are rather legendary within the watch industry for the amazing quality and level of detail achieved. Having handled this watch in person, I can attest that the goal has been reached.
I was thoroughly impressed with the brushed areas on the case.
Of course, machining ceramic to this level of detail and quality comes at a major increase in production time. It takes 12 hours to machine a single ceramic case middle, as opposed to 1.5 hours to machine the same part in steel. A ceramic bezel requires 8 hours of work; 45 minutes for the same bezel in steel.
The watch has a titanium caseback fitted with a sapphire crystal to allow viewing of the Manufacture Calibre 3126/3840 (365 parts, selfwinding, 55-hour power reserve). A rubber strap with titanium pin buckle secures this exquisite timepiece to the wrist.
Womens' Collection 2013
Women's watches are a large part of AP's 2013 theme. The collection is stunning.
Starting off, a 41mm Jules Audemars extra-thin with a gem-set bezel. Also of note is the use of the calibre 2120:
The 39mm Jules Audemars selfwinding features one of the most beautiful dial guilloches I have ever seen:
The Jules Audemars small seconds comes in a 33mm case and is offered with a new 7 row bracelet in matching pink gold. It has a very supple feel:
A 37mm Royal Oak selfwinding is available in white gold for the first time. This is also the first 37mm offered in full-set diamonds:
White gold 33mm Royal Oak quartz, with full gem-set case and bracelet:
And perhaps we will find a few others to discuss:
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 19:26:28
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Baume & Mercier (M.Teillol-Foo & PuristSPro Team)
Last year’s (2012) Star of the Show: Capeland Flyback Chronograph 44 mm
Baume & Mercier is the 7th oldest Swiss brand founded in 1830 by brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume with the motto, “Accept only perfection, Only manufacture watches of the highest quality.” Entrepreneur, Paul Mercier, joined in 1918 to lay the foundations for a business philosophy that was open to the world. His business acumen and esthete principles contributed to bringing Swiss watchmaking to a wider audience.
Current CEO – Alain Zimmerman – wants Baume & Mercier watches to be true icons of accessible luxury; with the added advantage of being available at more moderate prices, within the reach of a wider clientele. The focus is on watchmaking history, traditional inspiration and contemporary style. For the client who has decided to acquire a real timepiece, Baume & Mercier want to be the "go-to" brand for timeless style and an assured product: "You can't go wrong with a Baume & Mercier".
Clifton: Revisiting the “Golden Fifties”
Clifton: Making every day a part of history.
Clifton: Urban and timeless style
Linea: Life’s simple pleasures
For 2013, Baume & Mercier introduced a whole new collection for men – Clifton. The first preview at the end of 2012 was in Shanghai to great acclaim and the whole collection was revealed at SIHH 2013. This collection of men’s watches is inspired by a museum timepiece that dates back to the 1950s.
Baume & Mercier Museum Piece - 1950's
The design signature for each timepiece was pared down to the purest essentials, from the hand-wound mechanical version in 18K red gold (Clifton 1830), to the automatic version also crafted in 18K red gold, with various, different components adorned in polished satin-finish steel. These highly refined watches with clean-design sun satin-finish dials, or featuring a triple calendar display and moon phases, are aimed at those who want the assurance of timeless elegance. "You never make a sartorial mistake choosing a Baume & Mercier."
Baume & Mercier also unveiled the quartz Linea 27 mm series featuring interchangeable bracelets in hand-woven leather in various colours, created in collaboration with the Canadian actress Emmanuelle Chriqui, as well as two new mechanical models from the Linea 27 mm collection.
2013 Star of the Show: Clifton 1830
Baume & Mercier reference watch, inspired by a model from the Baume & Mercier Museum is the showpiece of 2013. The contemporary 42 mm diameter case is crafted from solid 18K red gold. The designers are particularly proud of the polished and satin-finished case with double bevel on the profile.
The dial is curved to match the domed sapphire crystal. As a nod to the past, the “chevée” shape is identical to that of vintage acrylic watch glasses. The domed, opaline silver-coloured dial is snailed finished and set with riveted gilt Arabic numerals and indexes.
The Clifton 1830 is fitted with a manufacture movement adapted for Baume & Mercier by the La Joux-Perret Manufacture and it is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.
Other Novelties 2013.
Clifton Complete Calendar - Moon phase
Steel 43 mm; silver-coloured or blue dial on black alligator strap.
Different play of light changes the sun-burst satin blue appearance of the dial.
Clifton Automatic 18K Red Gold 39 mm
Hours, minutes, central seconds; silver-coloured dial on black alligator strap or anthracite dial on brown alligator strap.
Clifton Automatic Steel 41 mm
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date; silver-coloured dial on black alligator strap or black dial on brown alligator strap.
Clifton Automatic Steel 41 mm Bracelet
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date; silver-coloured or black dial; both on steel bracelet.
Linea Collection: life’s simple pleasures
Linea is one of Baume & Mercier's iconic collections of sleek and elegant women's watches. For 2013, they tapped into contemporary trends by approaching the young Canadian actress, Emmanuelle Chriqui.
Ms Chriqui is famous for her work on the T.V. series "Entourage" and "The Mentalist". Appreciating "the simple pleasures in life.", she embodies the natural elegance that Baume & Mercier associate with the Linea collection. She helped the design process that came up with an assortment of woven lambskin bracelets in key shades of the Spring/Summer 2013 season.
Linea Spring/Summer 2013 Limited Edition is a 27 mm case quartz movement watch with snailed-finish mother-of-pearl dial and riveted indices. The unique selling point is the interchangeable hand-woven lambskin bracelet – white, beige or orange – that are not compatible with the Linea Automatic watches.
Since its launch in 1987, the Linea has been available in steel or two-tone steel-gold with interchangeable bracelets but with quartz movements. The new Linea Automatic contains a Swiss mechanical movement in a 27 mm case. The time display includes a central seconds hand and a small date window at 6 o'clock in the mother-of-pearl dial set with 11 diamonds.
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 19:26:00
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Cartier (M. Teillol-Foo & PuristSPro Team)
Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: Rotonde Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
It is difficult to pick a single watch as the Cartier juggernaut churns out so many models each year since they recently built their mega-factory next door to Renaud & Papi workshop in the La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle area. In 2012, they had a huge talking piece - minute repeater flying tourbillon but also for the common man, the new Tank Anglaise only on integrated bracelet. In terms of volume and revenue, the humble Tank Anglaise may be said to be the "star: of 2012.
We will come back to the Tank Anglaise later. Meanwhile, have a look at a working example of the said minute repeater flying tourbillon.....
2013 Brand Themes:
Cartier had one main theme - Mystery to Fantasy - that translated across the 2013 collections:
Fabulous Hours of Cartier:
Mysterious Hours of Cartier
Balon Bleu de Cartier
Calibre de Cartier
Roronde de Cartier
2013 Star of the Show: Ballon Bleu de Cartier tourbillon double jumping second time zone watch
Balance and Symmetry are the watch words here.
It may not have the big budget publicity furore or the newspaper column-inches but in the real world of real watch owners, this is a useful albeit whimsical indulgent timepiece. This is haute horlogerie at its best.
So; what is the big deal here? Of course, there is the tourbillon to look at but the main attraction happens every hour, on the hour.
Every hour ends with a little click from the mechanism and two levers that are each linked to a spiral spring are released. The two parts snap back to their starting point in a fraction of a second. During this 'snap' movement, a retractable arming finger on the lever engages with one of the twelve linked teeth of the star wheel. In a blink of an eye, this advances each of the two wheels by one twelfth of a revolution which causes the two hour hands to indicate the next hour in their respective counters – one for local time, the other for home time.
Other Novelties 2013:
Les Heures Fabuleuses de Cartier
41 pieces, including 23 unique editions, the Heures Fabuleuses de Cartier twist reality; as timekeeper and jewellery intertwine. They proclaim that the Collection is like a Surrealist manifesto: “This is not a watch”. Secret watches, brooches that pull apart from pendant watches and pocket watches.
Adornments that pull apart to form separate brooches.
Peacock watch 60 pieces
Frog watch 40 pieces
Snake watch 60 pieces
Tree missing the snake
Montre Tortue secrète de Cartier watch, morganite version
Montre Tortue secrète de Cartier watch,diamond-paved version
Envol d’un Phoenix watch
Panthère divine de Cartier watch
Other Artistic watches with decorative arts
Rose gold version of the Prowling Panther -- Masse Secrete Panthere watch
Cameo dial carved from a bi-layered stone
From rushes and reeds......
Grisaille Enamel Horse in the Limoges style:
A dark grey (almost black) enamel base that is painted with various depths of white (Limoges) enamel to form different shades of grey.
Clown Fish Enamel with various techniques including the rare Plique-à-jour cloisonné like a stained-glass window.
Tank Americaine with unique "scaled" bracelet and various levels of gem-setting
Les Heures Mystérieuses de Cartier
For over a century, Cartier has produced Mystery timepieces, starting with clocks. Les Heures Mystérieuses de Cartier continue this traditon with two novelties.
The first mysteriously displays the hour and minutes with two hands that seem to float magically in space.
The second focuses the attention on a mysterious double tourbillon whose floating cage performs a delicate and spellbinding dance
Montre Rotonde de Cartier Mystery
The new and mysterious 9981 MC movement creates the illusion of floating hands that move with no visible connection to the 'clockworks'. Everyone loves a mystery.......
A better presentation may be a mirror set at the bottom of the "hole" that would obscure the visible hairy wrists. That would have preserved the mystery but saved the public display of hirsutism that may be inelegant in some circles.
On the other hand, people may suspect that it is "all done with mirrors"! You can't win both ways.
Montre Rotonde de Cartier Double Mystery Tourbillon
Closer inspection will reveal the magic concealed in the mechanism. Indeed the flying tourbillon, which turns once on its own axis every 60 seconds, appears to be floating completely free in space, with no visible connection to any gear train.
The illusion is complete when the same tourbillon cage starts to perform a second rotation at a rate of one turn every five minutes.
The New movement, 9454 MC Double Mystery Tourbillon.
The same arguments about hairy wrists or not also apply for this watch and the jury is still out.....
Calibre de Cartier Chronograph
New calibre 1904-CH MC adds a chronograph to the Calibre de Cartier range, and indeed to the Cartier portfolio to pop up in other case shapes.
The date window to show three dates, although adopted by other brands as well...still makes no sense. Most people know that the 25th of the month is preceeded by the 24th and is folowed by the 26th....it happens every month......like clockwork.
I guess it adds a smiley face to the dial, which may have been the objective for balance.
"London swings like a pendulum do....Bobbies on bicycles two-by-two..."
Created in 1967 at the very heart of “Swinging London”, the Crash watch bears the pop-tastic, psychedelic spirit of an era of birth control pills and freedom. It was Cartier fate and an accident waiting to happen. According to the story, a client returned a Cartier watch that had been involved in an accident in order to have it repaired and Jean-Jacques Cartier, then the head of Cartier London, was so taken with the shape of the case that he wanted to reproduce it.
The rest is history and a cult collectors' piece was born. Now, with a re-editon of 267 numbered pieces for the models with gold bracelets and 67 numbered pieces for the models with gem-set bracelets, Cartier starts another cult era.
Rotonde de Cartier perpetual calendar chronograph watch
By adding a perpetual calendar module to the new Manufacture chronograph calibre 1904-CH MC, Cartier presents a watch with both functions. It now has a competing model against the usual purveyors of perpetual calendar chronographs.
With the new perpetual calendar module, the basic 1904-CH MC movement is elevated to a new designation:
Calibre 9423 MC
The Tank Anglaise gets leather straps and looks better for it. Various levels of diamond-setting are optional extras.
Miscellaneous variations of previous models
Tortue XXL Multiple Timezone
First appearing in a Calibre de Cartier case, for 2013 it is presented as a Tortue watch but with the so called "jet-lag" time difference between Current and Home Time indicator missing.
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in Cartier forum, http://cartier.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-886/pi-5718803/ti-843478/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 20:15:49
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Gruebel Forsey (M. Teillol-Foo & PuristSPro Team)
Last Years' (2012) Star of the Show: GF 05 GMT
Greubel Forsey continue to Innovate by Exploring Chronometry & Materials
First Double Balancier in Watchmaking.
First Black Titanium Case and Rubber Strap.
First Art Piece work in progress.
2013 Star of the Show : Greubel Forsey Double Balancier 35°
A true first in Horology, the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier 35° features two inclined fixed-oscillators.
This unique regulating system comprises two inclined oscillators and escapements. They are driven through a spherical differential, which provides the average of their rates (via the gear train) to the time display.
Since 1999, when Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey began their ground-breaking research into inclined oscillators, they concentrated first on the challenges of those mounted in rotating cages and then continued at the start of the 21st Century into studying inclined fixed oscillators.
The first working prototype from Greubel Forsey’s 6th fundamental invention with inclined escapement was initially a movement with two inclined oscillators, each at 20° and this was unveiled at Baselworld in 2009. This superimposed concept resulted in an exclusive six timepiece edition under the Greubel Forsey EWT label in 2011.
Consequently the timepiece presented in 2013 is an evolution from this first concept. The two inclined oscillators are no longer superimposed, but are spatially disposed in different three dimensional planes.The Greubel Forsey Double Balancier 35° is a one-off unique edition of just six pieces in an18K white gold case, ensuring exclusivity.
Other Novelties 2013:
Double Tourbillon Technique Black
The Double Tourbillon Technique Black breaks completely new ground for Greubel Forsey: It is the first black model in the Collection and the first Greubel Forsey timepiece to feature a titanium case and a rubber strap.
These features endow this three-dimensional engineering sculpture with more casual aesthetics than the classic gold and platinum models. Highly polished steel bridges stand out in high-contrast juxtaposition against the subdued black chrome of the movement plates and bridges.
It may be almost criminal to suggest that this is the first sporty Greubel Forsey but the contrasting textures and red-tipped indicators certainly give that ambience.
The Double Tourbillon Technique Black features a unique, open-work movement architecture in an entirely original and innovative interpretation of Greubel Forsey’s first fundamental invention, the Double Tourbillon 30°.
Art Piece 1
An artistic co-creation by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey with Willard Wigan. Whilst still a work in progress, Art Piece 1 will feature a nano-sculpture by Willard Wigan set into its own dedicated space within the timepiece. A miniature microscope set into the caseband will allow full appreciation of this macro-wonder. Willard Wigan’s artwork in Art Piece 1 will be complemented by a sublime 30° inclined double tourbillion, which will ensure that this unique timepiece is as accurate as it is alluring.
When Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey first encountered Willard Wigan’s nano-sculpture installations in the eye of a needle or on the head of a pin, they found that they shared the same language of the ‘miniaturist’. Initially Willard Wigan thought that fine watchmaking was too far from his artistic realm; However, after visiting the Greubel Forsey manufacture, he became fully aware of the ‘Greubel Forsey spirit’ and how Robert and Stephen’s seemingly irrational obsession with perfection resonated with his own artistic sensibilities.
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey entered into Willard Wigan’s world and he into theirs. It would have been much easier to simply insert one of Willard Wigan’s micro-sculptures into an already existing Greubel Forsey timepiece. However, Robert and Stephen wanted to work together with Willard Wigan to create a work of art befitting his sculpture and artistic spirit.
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey are creating an entirely new timepiece in which they have incorporated a miniature microscope. Despite its size, this optical-grade instrument offers 23-fold magnification –a significant technical challenge in itself. The only way to appreciate Willard Wigan’s sculpture will be with the eye close to the miniature lens.
A mock-up illustration of the eyepiece to inspect the nano-sculpture.
Developing the integrated optics was a significant technical challenge in itself. Not only did the timepiece require an adjustable lens with a magnification of 23 times without distorting optical abberations, there also had to be enough natural light illuminating the micro-sculpture without the necessity of an internal artifical light source.
The protoype demonstrator contained a miniature sculpture of a sailing ship with masts, rigging, sails and a spinaker (not photographed). The rigging was made of actual spiders' web; that revelation resulted in quite a few jaws dropping amongst the audience!
What is left to complete? The Art Piece will still function as a time-keeper but in keeping with it's primary raison d'etre, the time display will be "on-demand" at the 5 o'clock position. Greubel Forsey are working on some secret mechanism that opens the display shutters upon activation of the pusher.
Experimental Watch Technology Proto SF
Experimental Watch Technology Proto 3
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in Independents forum, http://ahci.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-16/pi-5718793/ti-843473/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 19:40:24
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: IWC (M. Teillol-Foo, P. Yuan & PuristSPro Team)
"The mechanics in the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team have a maximum of 3 seconds to change tyres and carry out minor repairs. By way of comparison: in 3 seconds a Formula One™ racing car accelerates from 0 to 150 kph, while a human being has three heart beats and takes one deep breath."
Last Year’s (2012) Star of the Show: No Clear Winner
IWC focus on one themed collection each year and 2012 was the Year of the Pilot. They expanded the Top Gun and Pilot watches to mixed reviews. The main criticism was “not enough engineering nor changes”. This example of Pilot Chronograph was best received.
2012 example of IWC Pilot Collection
2013 Brand Thema:
1. IWC continues partnership with Mercedes-Benz AMG and a new partnership with the Mercedes GP AMG PETRONAS Formula 1 Racing Team with a new INGENIEUR Collection.
2. The INGENIEUR line of watches was first designed in 1976 for IWC (Ref 666). Today, the INGENIEUR line represents IWC motorsports line.
3. Materials science, specialty case materials, and engineering technology will be represented in the INGENIEUR line. The new line comprises of timepieces made with the traditional case materials of steel and precious metals in addition to two new case materials:
a. titanium aluminide, a composite of titanium and aluminium that is commonly used in racing mechanicals (featured exclusively in the INGENIEUR Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month).
b. layered carbon fibre, epoxy resin-soaked carbon fibre sheets are hand-layered into moulds to create strong carbon fibre cases (featured in the INGENIEUR Automatic Carbon Performance Series).
c. ceramic cases of black zirconium oxide featuring combination of matte and polished surfaces (featured in the INGENIEUR Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic).
2013 Star of the Show: INGENIEUR Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month
The IWC INGENIEUR Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month comes closest to the thema of the design brief combining materials science, engineering and F1 racing design motifs.
It just edged out the remarkable technology of the INGENIEUR Constant-Force Tourbillon because it ticked more of the boxes on the thema checklist. The Ti aluminide case, useful perpetual calendar function and digital racing display just won the day.
The only feature that raised a few eyebrows is the bold lettering on the winding rotor that announces "Sixty-Eight Hours Power-Reserve". That seems a tad superfluous and redundant; that is not in keeping with the lean, mean credo of F1 Grand Prix racing.
Other Novelties 2013.
INGENIEUR Constant-Force Tourbillon (Ref 5900) in platinum and ceramic case. The double moon display for Northern and Southern Hemispheres are usual for IWC calendar / astronomic watches and adds a traditional touch to a modern high-tech machine.
INGENIEUR Automatic Carbon Performance series
For some, this may be the Star of the Show because they are affordable but still engender the spirit of the three main themes: Ingennieur case, F1 Racing and Material Science engineering.
INGENIEUR Automatic AMG Black Ceramic Series explores the special relationship with AMG motorsports and the association of the AMG Black Series of topline customised cars. IWC's experience with ceramic material harks back further than even ceramic brakes in motor racing.
INGENIEUR Double Chronograph Titanium - two dial versions
INGENIEUR Dual Time Titanium
INGENIEUR Chronograph Racer - two dial versions
INGENIEUR Automatic 40 mm - three dial versions
INGENIEUR Chronograph Silberpfeil - two dial versions harking to the vintage Mercedes W25 Silver Arrows with circular grain "dashboard" decoration, engraved "Mercedes Silver Arrow Racecar" case back and brown-black "vintage upholstery" straps.
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in HoMe forum, http://home.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-17/pi-5718818/ti-843488/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 19:44:45 This message has been edited by Kong on 2013-02-06 21:56:59
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: JLC (N. Fondaneche & PuristSPro Team)
Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge
2013 Brand Themes
Basically, JLC focused on three families: The Master Control, the Ultra Thin, and the Grande Tradition.
Two other important oferings:
- New Duometre, the Unique Travel Time
- Jubilé collection, whose purpose is to celebrate the 180th anniversary of the Manufacture.
2013 Star of the Show
The combination of an instantaneous Digital Chronograph and of aFlying Tourbillon with a spherical hairsrping, in the new case of the Master Grande Tradition.
Other Novelties 2013
Duometre, the Unique Travel Time
We have already analyzed here in a preview (click URL following): jlc.watchprosite.com
The Jubilé collection, whose purpose is to celebrate the 180th anniversary of the Manufacture, and which is composed of:
1/ MGT Tourbillon Cylindrique Quantieme Perpetuel.
A 42 mm case housing all the virtues included in the title. In platinum, only, and limited to 180 pieces.
In keeping with the likely gift presentation potential of the MUT, there is a spce on the caseback for personalised engravings.
MASTER CONTROL NOVELTIES
Master Tourbillon :
One round, one rectangular, both more flat than extra flat.
2/ Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface.
Rendez Vous Celestial.
A 37.5 mm white gold case, showing a delicious astronomical dial.
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in JLC forum, http://jlc.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-2/pi-5718833/ti-843498/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 19:49:02
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Montblanc (O. Meindl & PuristSPro Team)
The whole booth looked very much like an interesting gallery for modern art, but there was much more to see and to experience.
Last Year's (2012 Retrospect) Star of the Show:
2012 was an impressive year with lots of novelties from Montblanc, but there was one standing out (even when it was shown as a prototype only): Time Writer II Bi-Fréquence
Shown here on the picture from our dear FrX and next to the pocket watch this inspired it.
Another one was the Vintage Tachydate - handwinding, monopusher ... and a very nice solution for the date ...
Of course there was much more in 2012 and for those who are interested to see it again I would recommend to have a (second, third ... ) look here: montblanc.watchprosite.com
2013 Brand Themes: Consolidation
Mike Ting already showed you the latest watches from 2013 and he also mentioned it looks like a consolidating year for Montblanc. The latter is fine for me, especially if the evolution shown is well done like this. We (Magnus & me) didn´t see the whole collection and tried to focus on something we were especially interested in. So, let´s have a look what we saw (with our cameras).
2013 Star of the Show
The Rieussec Rising Hours is the new "big" novelty for this year. The characteristic face of the Nicolas Rieussec Collection is still there – in general, but this time it comes with new indications:
- Hours and minutes on off-center dial
- Digital hour display with integrated day/night indication
- Day by disc
- Date by disc
- Power reserve indicator on case back
The Rising Hours is available in three different versions: Platinum (LE 28), red gold and steel. My favorite one (from the whole Nicolas Rieussec Collection) was the platinum one (without knowing that it is platinum), why am I not surprised
The version shown in the following pictures is the steel one, which is my second favorite and it was very nice to see it in the metal.
Let´s start with a “small” detail in blue …
… which needs some extra parts below the dial.
Clever and nice, isn´t it?
If someone is in the market for a special (and relatively affordable) chronograph, he should have a closer look on this one.
Other “Novelties” 2013
Timewalker World-Time Hemispheres - Northern Hemisphere model (white dial) and its corresponding Southern Hemisphere model (gray dial).
Both are nice watches, with an interesting complication and case.
A new version of the TwinFly:
Nothing is wrong with that one, but I would not call it outstanding.
Collection Villeret – this one is something not to forget, because to me it shows what Montblanc is able to do these days – high end watchmaking. For me it was the first time to look at it in detail and to make it short: I really liked what I saw – even when most of the watches we saw are slightly too big for my personal taste.
The latest version of the Exotourbillon Chronograph in white gold (there is a new one in red gold as well) looks very impressive and shows great details. The different finishing’s on the dial and the way the four-minute tourbillon is presented is very, very nice.
Mystery Tourbillon – the watch itself is not new, but this time in a more classical version. A hell of a watch, but I guess not for everybody – or at least everybody’s wrist. Nonetheless, a feast for the eyes.
Chronograph Grand Regulateur Nautique – technically a very interesting watch with lots to explore on the front and on the back. The idea that it is a mono-pusher is something I like a lot.
My favorite part is the manually wound movement with column-wheel and horizontal coupling.
Villeret Secondes Authentiques – several models for ladies & couples, but you won´t see all of them now.
A mother-of-pearl dial is always something special and it is very nice to see how it changes the color in different light.
Let me close with this nice (very classical) view on the back and I can promise there will be more to see/read in the near future – by fellow moderators.
The passion for watches we saw at the team was very addictive and all I can say is that I appreciated it a lot. Thanks, you know who you are!
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in Montblanc forum, http://montblanc.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-1006/pi-5718853/ti-843513/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 19:53:07
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 19:57:43
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Parmigiani (M.Teillol-Foo & PuristSPro Team)
Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: Tonda 1950 Diamond-Set
Personally, I prefer the unadorned Tonda 1950 but the rules of the report is to mention last year's novelties. Still, one cannot help being attracted to the Manufacture movement. The ultra-thin automatic movement is 30 mm (13 ¼ lignes) in diameter and 2.6 mm thick – dimensions so compact, in fact, that a large number of future mechanical additions are possible within the same case, which measures 7.80 mm and 39 mm in diameter.
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Jean-Marc Jacot hinted as much for the future.......
2013 Brand Themes:
Mr Parmigiani showing off his 15-Day Clock tribute to music
The three main themes or messages from Parmigiani Fleurier are:
1. NEW BOUTIQUE CONCEPT - L'Atelier Parmigiani & Studio.
Know-How: Atelier is the cemtre of future Parmigiani retail stores. Every visitor is received by a watchmaker expert in Haute Horlogerie. A place to discuss and understand the brand, as well as the centre for customer service.
Choice: Exhibits all the collections with easy access to both the simple models and Parmigiani Fleurier's grand complications.
Style: Atelier puts the watchmaker at its heart. Based at the centre of a unique oval bench, custom-built to provide him with easy access to his numerous watchmaking tools, the craftsman can offer watch-lovers explanations and advice.
2. BRAND IDENTITY - Mesure et Demesure.
"Between Exact and Exultant, the brand's identity embodies the constant search for balance. Between mastering the knowledge of ancestral watchmakers and the freedom of daring interpretations, between the absolute rigour of movement and unlimited curiosity for the cultures of the world, Parmigiani Fleurier cultivates its commitment to independence, a supreme creator of liberty." Having the financial backing of the Sandoz Family Foundation helps this objective.
3. INTEGRATED MANUFACTURE - Chronology of constitution.
Sandoz Family Foundation gradually accumulated the constituent companies and workshops since 2000 to form an integrated manufacture:
Atokalpa; bar turning constituent components of the escapement and the regulating organ - in all around twenty parts - including the escapement wheel, pallet fork, plate, balance and balance-spring.
Les Artisans Boîtiers; complex cases in precious metal (18 carat gold, 950 platinum or 950 palladium), steel or titanium.
Elwin; bar turning for watchmaking (mainly balance staffs).
Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier SA; specialised in the "High-end" and "Prestige" market segments and creates high-quality movements. Its creation also signals a commitment to pursuing the private label activity that Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps began.
Quadrance et Habillage; production of high-end dials.
2013 Star of the Show: 15-Day Clock
2013 ediiton of the Parmigiani 15-day Clock
In 2012, Parmigiani Fleurier re-interpreted the table clock – a great watchmaking classic that has been manufactured by the Fleurier brand since it was founded. I quite liked the clean look of the 2012 edition.
In 2009, the watchmakers in the new Parmigiani Fleurier department of complication development searched through the brand's vaults and discovered antique timepieces and clocks restored by Michel Parmigiani. They were impressed by the perfect finishing work that had been carried out by generations of clockmakers before them. To create this harmony and beauty on a microscopic scale is a watchmaker's dream, and commands great respect. Parmiginiani Fleurier possess expertise at both ends of the scale.
This 2013 edition of the 15-Day Clock continues the theme of Music and the art of Marquetry.
Other Novelties 2013:
Tourbillon Woodstock Edition (USA)
A Tribute to Rock music and that Woodstock Moment.
Each star is hand cut marquetry; the art was learnt through decades of restoration work at Parmigiani.
Tourbillon Woodrock Edition (UK)
Of course, Brit Rock and Brit Pop were not forgotten
In 2011, Parmigiani Fleurier signed a unique partnership with the Confederação Brasileira de Futebol (CBF), and became the official watchmaking partner of this legendary Brazilian football federation. This also provides the opportunity for Parmigiani to create a new line of products celebrating this partnership: the CBF Collection.
The Pershing CBF - Ladies' and Men's Collection
The men's model features a titanium case and a choice of a white gold or rose gold bezel. The dial showcases the three colours of the CBF – gold, blue and green – each used in perfect harmony. The dark blue of the CBF is used to pick out the contour of the javelin-shaped hands, and the 5 green stars are also featured, marking the perimeter of the small seconds index.
Just like the CBF, which also administers the women's football teams, this new Pershing CBF line also boasts a model for women.
A titanium case is complemented by a magnificent jewel-set rose gold bezel, giving an elegant feminine touch which is so rare on a sports watch. The white mother of pearl dial is enhanced with rose gold numerals and indices.
The concept behind the Transforma, unveiled in 2011, is for a single watch head to be transformed into three different configurations: the classic wristwatch; the elegant pocket watch, and finally the timeless table clock.
For 2013, the Transforma CBF assembly is available with two watch heads instead of one. The first watch head is a chronograph, as with the original Transforma. This modern piece features a sporty carbon case and graphite-plated dial. The three emblematic colours of the CBF are discreetly featured here, on both the chronometer counter hands and the tachometer numerals. The Brazilian team's five symbolic green victory stars decorate the dial surround.
The second watch head included is an Annual Calendar, using the movement from the Tonda Quator but featuring a new dial, custom designed to reflect the symbolism of the partnership.
The Transforma CBF is delivered in a complete and inseparable set:
Two watch heads: Chronograph and Annual Calendar
Three possible transformations: Wristwatch; Pocket Watch; Table Clock
Toric Quaestor Labyrinthe
Hand-wound. 72-hour power reserve. Calibre 13’’’ - 29.30 mm. Frequency: 3 Hz – 21,600 Vib/h.
35 jewels, minute repeater on 2 "cathedral" gongs with chime rhythm regulator flywheel, device for disconnecting time-setting while the chime is operating, rhodium-plated bridges with Côtes de Genève, hand-polished bevelling and backing, steel parts circular-grained lengthwise.
Jade discs are cut.
Parmigiani Bugatti Watch
Not a novelty but always good to see a pink gold version.....
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Piaget (M.Teillol-Foo & PuristSPro Team)
Meeting the clients in-person and showing the products is important in the Piaget culture. This is personal and different from some brands whose CEO suddenly this year "do not hold personal meetings at SIHH".
Not just a master jewelller or master watchmaker, Piaget is also master of personal relationships. That is what the SIHH is for; meet the people - show the products - take the orders.
As usual, the ambience at Piaget was like a cocktail reception with their house palette of blues to purples.
Piaget Artisans on Show
Piaget brought some of their watchmakers, gem-setters and bracelet makers so we could see close up what they could achieve with just a flick of a finger or a swipe of their tools; truly amazing!
Last year’s (2012) Star of the Show: Piaget Automatic Altiplano Skeleton.
PIAGET CEO Philippe Leopold-Metzger announced the 2013 themes.
Piaget: Master of Ultra-thin.
Piaget: Jeweller of Watchmakers.
Piaget: Integrated Manufacture has now realised the five key haute horlogerie movements entirely in-house. These are Automatic Ultra-thin, Fly-back Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar, Automatic Tourbillon and Automatic Minute Repeater.
2013 Star of the Show: Piaget Emperador Coussin Automatic Minute Repeater.
Piaget sets another double record for ultra-thin in this category; 4.8 mm movement and 9.4 mm case. The cushion-shaped 1290P movement is entirely conceived, developed, produced, decorated and assembled by Piaget. It is adorned with the highest finishing. The founder’s motto is the new hallmark of top models from Piaget. The French for “Always do better than necessary” is engraved proudly on the dial: Toujours faire meux que necessaire...
The technical difficulties of constructing such a thin movement were challenging. Some wheels are only 0.12 mm thick, scarcely more than the proverbial “hair’s breadth” (0.08 mm). Some components are even smaller at 0.07 mm! The micro-rotor is made of pink platinum to guarantee the best possible winding power within a minimum thickness. Of course, the density of platinum achieves the technical requirement but the pink colour is purely aesthetic.
Pushing the limits of horology required certain construction choices. The decision to display the hammers on the bridge side and to reverse the repeater slide device (pushed downwards instead of upwards) impacted upon the size of the movement. Calibre 1290P is equipped with a surprise-piece device to ensure optimal hour jump at the end of the 59th minute; thus the striking mechanism indicates the exact time to the nearest second.
The hammers are made of steel to ensure optimal hardness-to-weight ratio. The gong is one-piece to guarantee transmission of vibrations through the movement and the case. In order to preserve the purity of this sound, the calibre is equipped with an inertia flywheel to regulate the rhythm.
Human conversation reaches an average of 65 decibels. Calibre 1290P chimes at 64 decibels. For the musically inclined, the strikes are in the 5th octave with hours pitch at G sharp and minutes at A sharp. The sound lingers pleasantly because of a damping factor of 2600 – the target limits being 2000 – 3000. Having developed a chime that is intense and regular, Piaget managed to eke out three virtual harmonic partials despite using a fixed gong.
The 48 mm-diameter case is also a technical marvel since it plays an essential role in sound transmission. It was hollowed out to maximum limits to achieve optimal resonance. Four braces secure it to the calibre to ensure transmission of vibrations from the gong. There is a gong base that is interconnected both with the movement and the exterior via 4 screws. There is also an ingenious mechanism beneath the bezel to ensure the water resistance. Yes – this is a water resistant minute repeater.
With 69 components, the 9.4 mm thick case of the world’s thinnest automatic minute repeater involved a complex equation to achieve three objectives: uncompromising technical mastery, superlatively pure acoustics, and aesthetic appeal with alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces.
2013 Other Novelties:
Piaget Limelight Gala
This may be poised to become the iconic watch shape for Ladies like Altiplano is for Gents.
Piaget chose three adjectives for the design brief: Brilliant, Vibrant, and Seductive. The design motif was to accentuate the feminine curve; a round case is enveloped and accentuated by two elegant extended lugs. The final case silhouette is distinctive even from across the cocktails room.
This IS the distinctive and seductive feminine case from Piaget but the ladies don't know it yet. It will grow on them if Piaget plays their game well. As Submariner is to Rolex or Royal Oak is to Audemars Piguet or even, Altiplano is to Piaget, 'Gala' (or more strictly: Limelight Gala) will be to feminine Piaget. They must support it and promote it appropriately to achieve its full potential.
The bezel and extended lugs provide ample real estate for gem setting. The space is enhanced further with the substitution of metal bracelet for the satin strap and gem-setting the dial as well.
Available in white gold with satin strap and 2 levels of gem-setting: bezel / lugs and bezel / lugs / dial plus the full bracelet full paved version.
Available in pink gold with satin strap and 2 levels of gem-setting; bezel / lugs and bezel / lugs / dial.
Piaget sums up their hopes for this new line thus: “At the crossroads of art, design and jewellery, it whimsically defies the infernal spiral of time.”
Personally, I think the whilte gold model with minimal diamonds on the bezel is best to show off the unique case and lugs.
Piaget Altiplano Date 40 mm
This the worst kept secret and the longest awaited development of the Automatic Altiplano introduced as a 43 mm watch in 2010. Piaget fans have been asking…nay, demanding a 38 – 40 mm model since. We got the 38 mm Automatic Altiplano Skeleton in 2012 and it was widely expected the 40 mm model would debut in 2013.
The twist that Piaget sprung was the addition of a date window that justifies the new 40 mm case.
Despite the addition of a date disk, the 3 mm thin 1205P in the 6.36 mm thin case hold the records for thinnest automatic date movement and an automatic date watch.
In the automatic extra flat or ultra-thin gents' category, Piaget now has the product to compete. The favourite diameter for a gentleman's watch plus a date function that has not been before on an Altiplano. That is surely a good place to embark on world domination!
Piaget Automatic Gem-Set Skeleton
Movement 1200D is the first ever, and thinnest (3 mm), automatic gem-set skeleton movement in the thinnest watch case (6.1 mm) in this class. Both the movement and watch case are gem-set.
Even after being adorned with 259 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.8 ct) and 11 black sapphire cabochons (approx. 0.2 ct) set within a diameter of 31.9 mm, the movement is still 3 mm thin. This exceptional gem-setting requires four days of work for each movement.
Paving the entire mainplate also requires paving the functional parts – the enormity of this feat is unrecognised by non-jewellers. Piaget master-jewellers even concealed screw threads beneath black sapphire cabochons.
I realise now that my original report did not elaborate on the significance of this novelty at SIHH 2013. It is simple: No other brand can do this now. They will catch up as they invariably do..... but for now, Piaget is the only master jeweller of the watchmakers that can gem-set an ultra-thin skeletonised movement.
Piaget is the jeweller watchmaker that other jeweller watchmakers look to for inspiration and direction. It is to Piaget that other jewellery watch brands look to for their watch components inside and outside......the movements both regular and gem-set, the cases, and the bracelets.
At just 6.10 mm thick, the case also sets an ultra-thin record for this watch class – adorned with 40 baguette diamonds (approx. 3.2 ct) on the bezel. The middle, crown, lugs and even the sapphire crystal case back, are set with 347 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.4 ct), while the strap buckle sparkles with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.06 ct).
The may be the ultimate Altiplano man-bling and certainly achieves the Piaget themes of Master of Ultra-thin and Jeweller of Watchmakers. In reality, I suspect that quite a few ladies will somehow get their hands on one of these masterpieces to become lady-bling as well.
Altiplano Automatic Skeleton Black
This is a new variant of last year's favourite. There is always something special about this colour combination for men in general and PuristS in particular. if only we knew why....?
I make special mention of the re-designed Piaget Polo case. We will return to an in-depth discussion of this but I wanted to highlight the relevance of the changes. Piaget introduced the new Gouverneur case last year to be the elegant range to hold minor complications; that freed the Piaget Polo designers to pursue a sportier but contemporary and ergonomic case.
Note the curvier silhouette for aesthetics and ergonomics around the wrist that now brings the Piaget Polo in line with its erstwhile Polo FortyFive derivative. The shiny and satin-brushed finishes are more pronounced and include the integrated lugs.
Collection Couture Précieuse
Piaget is renewing its tribute to feminine beauty with the continuation of its "Couture Précieuse" collection. Piaget expanded its Couture Précieuse collection by making some of the models unveiled at the Biennale des Antiquaires, but in rose gold.
Piaget is famous for their stone dials, cuff bracelets and jewellery watches. The offerings for 2013 continue that tradition.
The 1970s chain cuff watch makes a reappearance. Note the fine and intricate coiled wire work by the jewellers. This is an ancient technique that could only be revived for 2013 because a genius veteran at Piaget found a way to attach a special set of links that can be adjusted without having to return the piece to Geneva.
This meant that small adjustments to bracelet sizing can be done at Piaget boutiques and makes the new 2013 watches more accessible and instantly useable to the new owners.
The thin strap watch (ref. G0A38206) has been created in rose gold with a white satin strap for added softness and femininity. Its ultra-thin case set with diamonds (brilliant-cut and baguette-cut) reflects the sumptuous lines of a silhouette. This small watch is the must-have of elegant couture. It pays tribute to Piaget style of the 1960s.
After displaying the “brandebourg” motif, the ornamental braiding on male ceremonial costumes at the Biennale des Antiquaires, Piaget is now playing with more feminine ornaments. Knots and precious buttons are explored in this recent, couture-inspired collection.
The flat knot, created in 2008 in the Paris – New York collection, is now included in the Couture Précieuse Collection and adorns necklaces, rings, bracelets and brooches. Striking and stylized, it is set with black spinels and diamonds, evoking mystery and seduction.
The often discreet but functional button is currently the star of Piaget jewelry. Enhanced by noble materials, it fits in perfectly with the new creations in the Couture Précieuse collection and its very couture-inspired design. Piaget has managed to make this ornament both precious and decorative by adorning it with precious stones and cultured pearls. A button to be worn with the utmost elegance.
At Piaget, when they say "intergrated manufacture", it is not just a marketing buzz-phrase but an actuality. They essentially make what they say they make. I make no excuses for the dirty fingers and tool marks for this is what they showed us....real craftsmen HAND-making their products. Even with the help of modern machines to do the rough cutting and milling of parts, always at Piaget the final finishing and quality control is by human hand and eye.
I think the 2013 line-up from Piaget achieves the thema set out by the brand and also positions them to continue their upward trend in sales and popularity amongst the new cogniscenti.
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in Piaget forum, http://piaget.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-881/pi-5718888/ti-843543/s-0/
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Ralph Lauren (M.Teillol-Foo & PuristSProTeam)
Last Years' (2012) Star of the Show: Ralph Lauren Sporting Automotive
The Ralph Lauren watch collections offer new variations of existing models. This was so in 2012 when a steel bracelet version of my favourite Ralph Lauren watch was introduced.
I really prefer the original leather strap version of the Sporting Automotive watch, which is decorated with an elm burl wood dial frame inspired by the dashboard of Mr Lauren's 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe. The wood frame surrounds a matte black galvanic dial that is reminescent of the instrument gauges on the Atlantic Coupe with legible Arabic numerals. The 44.8 mm case contains an IWC FA Jones movement.
"The watches I’ve been drawn to represent a passion for design and a respect for tradition and craftsmanship. A watch also represents something personal. It reflects your individuality and taste — from its functionality to its aesthetic. This year, I returned to the themes of some of my favorite inspirations — the rugged romance of a safari, the refined sports of sailing and horseback riding, the glamour of art deco. And each timepiece is the result of the world’s best craftspeople using rare complications and the finest materials. I invite you to share my vision for luxury watchmaking, and experience the unique beauty and precision of each timepiece set within the worlds that inspired them."
There are novelties in each of the Ralph Lauren Watch Collections:
2013 Star of the Show: RL67 Safari Tourbillon
The RL67 Safari Tourbillon juxtaposes the ruggedness of a sport watch silhouette and gunmetal finish with the incongruous luxury
of a Tourbillon complication and refined alligator strap. I think the colour treatment of the strap evokes the safari feel and is vital to the design cues.
RL67 self-winding mechanical 13 ¼’’’ tourbillon movement has a power reserve of 38 hours. Finished by hand, each timepiece and its components—case, bezel, crown, buckle, buttons and screws—are sandblasted, brushed, polished and chamfered.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the steel of the case undergoes a chemical and thermal 'aging' treatment that increases its durability and transforms the silver sheen into a rugged blackened finish. This technique requires a high degree of accuracy, attention to detail
and expert craftsmanship.
Other Novelties 2013:
RALPH LAUREN RL67 SAFARI COLLECTION
"The romance of safari is a dream that I have returned to many times. It is an adventure, a world of refinement set against a rugged and powerful landscape." —Ralph Lauren
RL67 Safari Automotive Chronograph
The classic Ralph Lauren Automotive timepiece is 'channelled' through the lens of his safari collection. The RL67 Automotive contrasts an innovative titanium resin case that recalls the rugged exterior of a safari lorry with an elm burlwood dial inspired by the interior of one of Ralph Lauren’s classic cars.
The RL67 Automotive Chronograph features Grade 5 titanium with dark green resin.
This 45mm 'all-terrain' watch timepiece exudes a masculine statement and is powered by a RL751A/1 self-winding mechanical movement. The cross-collection and cross-design cues of the classic dial inlaid with elm burlwood are explored.
Similar movement RL751A/1
RL67 Safari Chronometer
The RL Chronometer has a vintage look; the dial is distinctive with cream-colored Arabic numerals, larger at 6 and 12 o’clock, and an orange seconds hand. The 45mm diameter case is made of "aged" blackened steel and contains the RL300-1 automatic movement. The signature faded olive canvas strap evokes the romance of the safari.
RALPH LAUREN SPORTING COLLECTION
"I love the unexpected—the contrast between sport and luxury. My sensibility is sporty and masculine, but with an international sophistication and sense of refinement." —Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren Sporting World Time
For 2013, Ralph Lauren presents a nautical interpretation of this timepiece, evocative of international racing and sailing. The new Sporting World Time features a brushed stainless steel case with a dial that features the names of 24 cities. The day/night indicator, helps simultaneous displays the local time and a 2nd time zone via a city disc.
The deep blue lacquered dial is highlighted by the bright red seconds hand. Water-resistant to 100 m and with a screw-lock crown, this 45mm watch is paired with a cobalt blue alligator strap and matching pin buckle. The RL939 movement is visible through an open back, beating at 4 Hz (28,800 vph) for a power reserve of 40 hours.
RALPH LAUREN STIRRUP COLLECTION
"When I named my company Polo in 1967, I wanted to celebrate the grace and beauty of horse riding, an elegant equestrian heritage—but at the same time create something new, something that would be iconic and timeless." —Ralph Lauren
Launched in 2009 the Ralph Lauren Stirrup collection features 20 models today. Designed for both men and women, the collection is offered in three sizes - small, medium and large – and different materials - white or rose gold, platinum and stainless steel - and many are adorned with diamonds.
For 2013, Ralph Lauren introduces two new timepieces; as jewelry and as testaments to watchmaking.
Ralph Lauren Stirrup Steel Link—Small model
The new stainless steel small stirrup case houses a quartz movement and interplays with the fluidity of the steel chain-link bracelet. Each link interlocks with each other so that the bracelet lies comfortably flat on the wrist, following its curves.
Ralph Lauren Stirrup Diamond Link—Medium model
Ralph Lauren Stirrup Diamond Link is now available in a beautiful medium size, and full-pavé diamond chain link bracelet. Over 1,900 diamonds are used, with a total of 20 different sized diamonds for maximum bling. The bracelet links, designed for both comfort and beauty, are exquisitely and harmoniously integrated with the case.
Discreet hidden catches allow up to four links to be removed for a perfect fit. Every diamond is carefully grain set by hand, and nearly three months are required for gem-setting. The Ralph Lauren Stirrup Diamond Link houses a mechanical caliber RL701.
RALPH LAUREN 867 WATCH COLLECTION
"I have always been inspired by the design elements of the Art Deco era. For me, its bold geometric spirit and sophisticated modernity define a kind of glamour that is timeless and especially elegant when applied to the art of watchmaking." —Ralph Lauren
Named in honour of the designer’s historic New York Flagship at 867 Madison Avenue, the Ralph Lauren 867 Watch collection represents his modern interpretation of Art Deco design.
Ralph Lauren 867 Diamond Watch
For 2013, Ralph Lauren presents one of his most extravagant timepieces: the Ralph Lauren 867 Diamond watch. This high jewelry piece reflects the Art Deco era. The 'Roaring Twenties' was a period of unmatched elegance and daring spirit of optimism.
The signature square case is set with glinting round and baguette-cut diamonds. As a striking contrast to the formal shape of the case, the black suede strap is decorated with ornate diamond-pavé arabesque motifs and fitted with a diamond deco folding clasp. The silver opaline dial and domed black Roman and Arabic numerals contribute to the elegant look.
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in HoMe forum, http://home.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-17/pi-5718898/ti-843553/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 20:09:49
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Richard Mille (A. Hildreth & PuristSPro Team)
Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: TOURBILLON RM 056 SPLIT SECONDS COMPETITION CHRONOGRAPH FELIPE MASSA SAPPHIRE
2013 Brand Theme : New classification of Richard Mille model numbers.
Richard Mille has decided to classify the watches in families according to their characteristic themes and complications. For example, the models in the RM 011 family, all automatic sport watches equipped with a flyback chronograph, will be renamed the RM 11-01, RM 11-02, etc. Meanwhile, those in the RM 056 family of tourbillon calibers featuring sapphire-crystal cases will henceforth be known as the RM 56-01, RM 56-02, and so on.
These new names will also be extended to the brand’s new collections.
2013 Star of the Show: TOURBILLON RICHARD MILLE RM 59-01 YOHAN BLAKE
At this year’s SIHH Richard debuted the RM059 Yohan Blake. Much speculation preceded this year’s SIHH with what the new Yohan Blake watch would look like. Not the one that was worn at the Olympic Games in the summer (although I will come back to that); no, the one that would be a limited edition and be individual to Yohan Blake, his tastes, his style, his watch. The watch that Blake wore at the Games, and that caused furor, was basically an adapted RM038.
But the colour scheme for the RM059 is even more extreme, even more telling and the bridges for the watch resembled the ‘clawing’ action of Blake’s hands before the 100m and 200m finals. There is no substitute for seeing and feeling the watch for yourself. Trying the watch on, I loved the way it seemed to mould to the wrist, become part of my arm.
The man who will actually be wearing it racing, and who influenced the design, was on hand to discuss the watch. It was a genuine pleasure to sit down with Yohan Blake and talk about watches and other areas of life now that he is a Richard Mille ambassador. Yohan Blake, who at the moment is only JUST the second fastest man on the planet (I might add that Yohan was quick to state that he was soon to be the fastest man), is quiet and unassuming and who is truly dedicated to his sport. It was not always the case that Yohan thought he would be a sprinter. Like any self-respecting Jamaican boy, he wanted to be a cricketer, and then perhaps an actor. But he shifted from cricket to athletics after the headmaster of his local school saw the speed of his run-up for bowling and advised him to change. The acting career might yet be, but he found that his sporting talents lay elsewhere: on the athletics track and in the fastest (self-powered) human race on the planet. Yohan was a born racing machine.
Blake found out he was fast, and for his age, faster than any other human on the planet. He still holds the national junior record for 100 metres and is also the youngest sprinter to ever run under the 10-second barrier. Hence, when asked in 2008 who might challenge him, Usain Bolt said that Blake would because: “He works like a beast. He’s there with me step for step in training.” The nickname: the “Beast”, stuck and Yohan Blake has used it to good effect.
Yohan came to prominence in winning the 100 metre World Championship title in 2011. He remains the youngest to hold the title as well. Although a certain other Jamaican sprinter was disqualified, Blake proved a point by beating his team-mates at the Jamaican sprint trials in the Olympic year. It is true that Blake has come to form during a ‘Golden Age’ for Jamaican sprinting. Not only do the 3 out of 5 of the world’s top sprinters come from the small Caribbean island, but on current form (and it showed in the 4 x 100m relay final at the Olympic games) they would out run any other county on earth. I asked Yohan whether he thought the squad could go faster and without a moments’ hesitation he answered in the affirmative.
Racing is what Yohan Blake does and I suppose it was natural that Richard at some point, looking for new arenas in which to compete, would turn to a sprinter to wear one of his watches. That Richard did it in such a dramatic fashion was typical of the man. While timing at the London 2012 Olympic Games may have been exclusively the preserve of Omega, and it was also a requirement of the Games that no athlete was allowed to endorse a brand while the games were being held (and up to three days after), Richard gave Yohan a watch to wear. No advertising or endorsement by Blake. But the Richard Mille watch design is so iconic, it was immediately spotted and the world’s media did the rest. With the toys firmly thrown out of pram, Omega went to the IOC, who complained, but Richard was firmly within the rules and within the bounds of permissible action.
If anyone knows the importance of time and making every second count, it is surely the man that can run under 10 metres a second. The 100 metres as a race is more complex than it looks. It might look like a frantic rush across the track, but it is also about technique to get the maximum out of yourself. But broken down, there are nuances where knowledge of technique will govern the win or loss come the finish line. At the start, there is the importance of driving from the blocks, weight down, only rising fully as you near the 20 metre mark. The next 50 metres, the sprinters will hit top speed. The final 30 metres, de-acceleration sets in and often the 100 metre race will be won or lost on who can maintain their speed most effectively to the finish line.
Blake still wears the same watch he wore in the Olympic final. He wears it everyday, training and racing. I asked if it made a difference and if he felt the watch on his wrist. He said no. He is so concentrated and focused on the race, on that finish line a short time away, that the watch is not noticed. However, it seems appropriate that Yohan Blake would wear a Swiss watch. His fastest recorded time is from the meeting at Lausanne last August ; and the Swiss do like their athletics. I asked if it was difficult to train when in Geneva and it being so cold outside the hotel. No was the answer, its not the cold; what makes it difficult to train is trying to go for a run when every 50 metres or so someone stops you for an autograph and a photograph!
Still, it was something to see: to see Yohan try on the finished RM059 for the first time. I asked to photograph Yohan Blake with the new watch on his wrist. This was the first time he had actually seen it; tried it on. And then, something that almost all of us (including yours truly) would do: he puts the watch on his wrist, takes out his mobile phone, and takes pictures of it to send to friends and family. I have to smile. Here is the man with the watch that has his name on it, and like any of us, just has to share it with others.
I asked if he planned to send the photo to his less fortunate countrymen that might have to wear a sponsors’ lesser watch. Yohan laughed and said yes, he would receive the picture and perhaps that there would be a slight envious feeling from the world’s fastest man (soon to be second fastest as Yohan pointed out). When Blake returned to Jamaica from the Olympics, Richard Mille watches became a household name and everyone wanted to see the watch. When he returns this time, with the RM059, Blake is sure the curiosity will be even more intense.
When asked about the Olympic final watch now that the RM059 is ready, I was told that later on this year, the watch that is part of Olympic history (and showed how corporate the Olympic Games have become) will be auctioned off. I think that there will also be some provenance to go with it in terms of documentation. Despite some wealthy individuals in Jamaica (and beyond) making offers for the watch, it is Yohan Blake’s wish (and Richard’s for that matter) that the watch be auctioned off to provide funds for Blake’s own foundation and charity: “YB Afraid to Dream” (http://ybafraid.com). Growing up in poverty, Blake wants to give something back, to give others the chance that he was fortunate to receive. The money will go for the underprivileged children to help support their education, their well-being, the promotion of opportunities for their future. The auction will be sometime this summer, and Yohan Blake hopes that generous watch enthusiasts will step forward to bid.
The RM059 was a collaborative effort between Richard and Yohan. Yohan had talked to Richard about the design and colouring elements that he wanted to see. And from there, and in Yohan’s own words: “Richard used his design genius to come up with a number of possible designs. “ Together, they worked on honing down to the one design that really worked for both.
The first thing that strikes you about the watch is the colour. Obviously the colour composition of the watch mirrors the colours found on the Jamaican flag. The case is a composite injected with the same carbon nanotubes that are used in the carbon casing. Only in this instance Richard has found a way to colour back the composite material. I personally like the material and the effect of the carbon nanotubes. The effect for the watch is the same ultra-light and ultra-strong case that Nadal has for his watch. The visual effect is a jelly like substance that molds or melds to the wrist.
The case is asymmetric. Although there was talk around SIHH of an aerodynamic shape, I think the design was more to accommodate the unusual bridge design than anything else. The (four) bridges fan out in a ‘claw’ like fashion that mimics Blake’s hands when he is performing his ‘Beast’ impression before the start of the race. The green and yellow colour bridges are actually made from an alloy composed in part from aluminum, magnesium, silicon and lead. The bridges and the plates holding the gear train are integral to the movement. The whole structure is then screwed into the case mid-section. As ever, the tourbillon movement is finished to Richard’s exacting standards. There is still the highest of haute horologerie.
Would I buy the watch? Well, now I have seen it, yes I think I would! It is so very different, so very funky. It will be noticed when Yohan races with it this summer and it would be noticed on anyone’s wrist. As a racing machine for the wrist; it is on the wrist of the (very soon) world’s fastest human racing machine.
Other Novelties 2013.
TOURBILLON RM 56-01 SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL
You think you are imagining the watch. You think it’s an apparition that is taking form in front of your eyes… and to an extent you are right. What you imagine is a watch, as you focus your gaze, it becomes a watch… it’s the RM 56-01. In 2012, the RM056 knocked the SIHH show sideways. This year, Richard went one better: not only is the case made from crystal, but the plates and some of the bridges as well. What you are left with is something that you stare at repeatedly picking out where each part lies within the watch.
I don’t know how many fellow Purists out there have read Peter Carey’s book: Oscar and Lucinda? It tells the tale of two compulsive and passionate gamblers who make a bet. Lucinda bets Oscar that (her entire inheritance) that he cannot transport the glass church to the Australian Outback safely. For some reason, starring at the RM 56-01 at SIHH, I could not help but think back to the story and see parallels with Richard’s ‘bet’ (he is always gambling with his reputation!) to the watch industry that he could pull off yet another ‘show-stopper’ of a watch. And he did!
I thought last year’s RM056 was fabulous and I was fortunate to be shown around Stettler (the crystal manufacturing firm in Solothurn) to see how the case was made.( http://richardmille.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-18/pi-5207608/ti-780028/s-0/ )
I saw how Richard Mille and Stettler had invested in the new crystal technology and how difficult it was to produce and polish such complex shapes. However, compared to the 3 reasonably large sections of the case, the small and delicate plates and bridges within the watch must have presented a whole new set of problems. Not least of which would be the fact that the ultrasonic cutting and polishing has to be completed without actually seeing the item that you are working on. Needless to say that with the cost of the first RM056 requiring half of Stettler’s annual output, this new RM 56-01 has moved up a notch or two.
And it is, in its own small way, a cathedral to watchmaking! What better way to demonstrate and illustrate the watchmaker’s skill than by making a crystal watch that requires each and every aspect to be viewable to the most exacting scrutiny? It is no longer the case that just with the outer pins need to be exact, but each and every screw within the watch. One wrong move and it is all visible. One poorly finished piece, never mind how small can be seen. It is arguably the pinnacle of watchmaking and the RM 56-01 does not disappoint.
It is not for the everyday wear, but as a flagship piece it is an undeniable tour de force of watchmaking, finishing, technical prowess and technology. It is stunning to see and the only downside to all this is that few will get to see it. Only 5 to be made, it will not be something you see at your local dealers at any time sooner, or later for that matter. More to the point, all 5 are pre-sold, and hence once complete will wing their way to the lucky handful.
This quest for extreme transparency within the titanium movement also led the engineers to use sapphire crystal for the central bridge and third wheel. The caliber RM 56-01, made from sapphire crystal and titanium, is immune to temperature variations and wear, thus claiming exemplary chronometric performance.
TOURBILLON RM 27-01 RAFAEL NADAL
The caliber RM27-01 is a triumph of engineering and technology. Its complex, original architecture is the result of Richard Mille’s determination to create a movement held in total suspension in the heart of its case. Inspired by suspended civil engineering infrastructures, Richard Mille wanted to adapt these modes of construction to the watchmaking sphere, occupying a space of just a few tens of millimetres.
The baseplate is attached to the case by four braided steel cables just 0.35 mm in diameter. This structure combines strength and flexibility to protect the movement, which weighs just 3.5 grammes, thanks to the use of grade 5 titanium for the baseplate and tourbillon carriage, and of aluminium lithium for the barrel bridges and gear-trains.
AUTOMATIC FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH RM 11-01 ROBERTO MANCINI
Equipped with the caliber RMAC1, this timepiece offers an annual calendar, a flyback chronograph with central minutes counter and a dial divided into periods of play. Although its operation appears extremely simple, in reality it is unique in watchmaking. The dial displays match time on the basis of two 45-minute halves and up to 15 minutes of stoppage time. Pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock once actuates the flyback function and repositions the hand at 12 o’clock, ready to start the second half. If extra time is awarded, the flyback function can be reactuated so that the watch shows the 15 minutes of extra match time and up to 5 minutes of stoppage time.
TOURBILLON G-SENSOR RM 036 JEAN TODT LIMITED EDITION (15 pieces)
Richard Mille supports his friend, Jean Todt, and the global organisation “FIA Action For Road Safety” by developing a watch capable of offering a tangible solution to road safety problems. Richard Mille’s and Jean Todt’s teams worked together closely to develop a mechanism capable of interpreting the physical constraints felt by the body during rapid decelerations to make drivers aware of the dangers linked to the road. The RM036 caliber, a tourbillon movement made entirely of grade-5 titanium and ARCAP, with a carbon-nanofiber baseplate. The manually wound mechanical caliber features hours, minutes and seconds combined with a brand-new complication: a mechanical G-sensor. The G-sensor system was developed and patented by Renaud Papi exclusively for Richard Mille, and translates the movement of a small internal mechanism to an indicator.
TOURBILLON RM 58-01 WORLD TIMER JEAN TODT LIMITED EDITION (35 pieces)
This manually winding movement has hours, minutes and a 10-day power reserve shown on an indicator at 2 o’clock. The caliber RM58-01, 34mm in diameter, is supported on a baseplate of grade 5 titanium, a material also utilized for the bridges. The tourbillon, positioned at 9 o’clock and oscillating at a frequency of 3Hz, is accommodated in a four-part case made from titanium and red gold.
The shot-blasted, satin-brushed and polished rotating bezel bears the names of 24 world cities, symbols of the international 24 time zones on its brown upper flange.
RM 053 Skull: Diamonds setting can be personalised.
RM 028 ORANGE
RM 055 BLACK
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in RM forum, http://richardmille.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-18/pi-5718913/ti-843563/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 20:13:06 This message has been edited by 219 on 2013-02-07 01:04:34
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Roger Dubuis (M. Bosse & PuristSPro Team)
The Manufacture Roger Dubuis unloaded a firework of novelties during this year's SIHH. It was an impressive year for them with two new greatly complicated watches, a totally new case material and at least one really impressive manifestation of sculpture. Furthermore, both the Excalibur as well as the Hommage collection benefitted from refinement of the case which improved both aesthetics as well as wearing comfort (case size, lugs, flatness etc.).
To put this into perspective let's first look at what we have seen last year:
Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: The Pulsion Collection (all 2012 images from Oliver Meindl):
RD introduced this new collection. Its meant to be their sportive offering with open-worked dials and a sapphire crystal that acts as bezel at the same time.
An interesting solution that gives the watch a light yet tough appeal. The design also carries over a well-designed solution for the signature three lugs. I personally find open-worked dial usually too busy for my eyes but here it has been done with a nice balance of face vs. detail.
If you want to learn more of the 2012 novelties please read Oliver's report here.
2013 Main Theme: The year of the Excalibur:
As always, the Roger Dubuis booth at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie is the one the majority of visitors is looking forward to see - its always exceptional!
This year RD seizes the emblem of its city of origin and the Poinçon de Genève - the Crowned Eagle and the Key – to claim its quest for excellence and allegiance to the most demanding signature in Fine Watchmaking. RD sends a clear message at SIHH: A Roger Dubuis’ Eagle with 4.60 meters of wingspan...
... as a strong argument for the fact that RD would like to be considered as the brand to be when it comes to the Poinçon. Remember, 100% of the RD watches are certified according to the criteria of the Poinçon so this has quite some substance.
And the theme of 2013 is designated the Year of the Excalibur. And they demonstrated this with some truly outstanding novelties!
2013 Star of the Show: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor
The Excalibur Quatuor plays on the key tasks of a watch, that is to keep time as precisely and as consistently as possible. To this end, the Manufacture Roger Dubuis set up a team of 40 experts of 21 different metièrs who invested 7 years of research.
The outcome is a pièce de résistance featuring in a 48mm case:
For an in-deepth presentation of the Quatuor with many, many live pics please refer to my recent article here on PuristS!
2013 Star of the Show, Runner-up: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Round Table
Roger Dubuis designers have drawn their inspiration from a reproduction of the Round Table made for Henry VIII and placed in the Grand Hall of his castle at Winchester. It features 12 figures representing the legendary Knights of the Round Table with their swords make a perfect circle replacing traditional hour markers. Each figure is a three-dimensional casting in gold with its fine details carved by hand. They are set around a magnificent dial in grand feu enamel:
A solid gold back plate, covering the automatic calibre RD 821, reminds on what the knights symbolise:
"Around this table, the bravest knights will gather as equals. They will set forth in search of adventure, righting wrongs, protecting the weak, and humbling the proud."
Thus is the inscription of the back:
On the wrist the Excalibur Round Table has quite some presence. Athough very detailed, exceptionally sculptural and certainly quite individual I think the watch is well wearable and mixes at surprising easy with your attire:
Other Novelties 2013 (Excalibur):
The Excalibur collection got a new 42mm automatic chronograph.
The 42mm follows the elegant theme of the collection (see last year's report) and offer a lot of space. The usage of very few but bold details make it a very timeless watch. Something we have not seen often, I guess.
The Excalibur 42 Chronograph came already with several dial options. Here are a few in detail. Stainless steel with a blue dial:
For the ladies we got a 36mm Excalibur automatic watch. RD tried - successfully I think - to match their known watchmaking excellence with a marvellous exterior design. The characteristic Excalibur bezel with its 12 carves is set with 48 diamonds (0.99 carats). As engine acts the RD calibre 821 with 48 hours autonomy and a nice subseconds display.
Another Excalibur novelty was this 42mm automatic watch in stainless steel with a new Cal. RD 640 (micro-rotor, 52h power reserve). It delves on the same theme as the chronograph (note the integration of the date into the 6 o'clock marker):
RD furthermore presented an Excalibur Double Skeleton Tourbillon. This is not a new watch but demonstrates the company's dedication towards product improvement. Its 45 mm case has been subtly redesigned to offer better ergonomics and greater comfort on the wrist. The new case is 12% thinner and the crown guard has been refined to create an ideal contrast with the black ceramic bezel and the screws. Movement is the known Cal. RD01SQ double skeleton flying tourbillon with a differential system that averages the rates of the two tourbillons.
Designed as an alternative to the Excalibur 45 Double Skeleton Tourbillon, the Excalibur 42 Tourbillon Skeleton an ergonomic 42 mm case that incorporates the identifying codes of the Excalibur collection: sharp angles and a strong visual impact linked to a perfect mechanism.
Other Novelties 2013 (Hommage):
Also the Hommage collection got some love, and an intense love it was! Two impressive pieces were shown, we start with the most fascinating one, the Tribute to the Minute Repeater:
In terms of design I have to admit that I am generally not a fan of open-worked dials. But in this case I will concede that RD did it with taste and mastery. I personally could have done well without the literature on the bottom part.
We will certainly revisit this watch at a later time point. Same applies to the next one:
The second novelty in the Hommage collection is this Flying Tourbillon with Big Date, also with the updated case. They showed us a version with diamonds on the bezel (well, this is not exactly a novelty but I thought I show it anyway):
Emphasis is given on the flying tourbillon which doubles as seconds hand...
Other Novelties 2013 (Velvet):
The Velvet collection got one new member, the Velvet High Jewellery. Set with 304 diamonds arranged in invisible settings that seem to magnify the precious stones the timepieces carries total approximately 13.61 carats.
That's it for 2013. Did I say 'impressive'?
What remains now in my view is something that would reemphasise the reference to the Genevan watchmaking tradition. I am referring to a delicious hand-wound movement, finished to highlight the specific art of construction and decoration that is typical to the timepieces made in the eastmost canton of Switzerland. Well, one can always dream!
We will have more in-depth presentations of some of the novelties in the course of the next months. Stay tuned!
Cheers and thanks for reading,
To post comments, please go to Magnus' original post in RD forum, http://rogerdubuis.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-1148/pi-5718923/ti-843573/s-0/
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Vacheron Constantin (M. Teillol-Foo, W. Lind & PuristSPro Team)
Last Years' (2012) Star of the Show: Métiers d’Art "Les Univers Infinis".
Shell, Dove and Fish
'The Fish' possibly being the favourite of PuristS and featured guilloche and cloisonne enamelling.
Special horology technical note must be made of the Patrimony Traditionnelle Tourbillon 14 days at SIHH 2012.
2013 Themes. Dedicated Ladies' Collections
Vacheron Constantin is continuing its tradition of making beautiful art pieces for the wrist both technically and in the fascinating art of enamel. In recent years, Vacheron Constantin made watches with beautiful miniature enamel dials, Japanese Maki-e dials, and supremely complex watches.
Vacheron Constantin pays a new tribute to women in 2013 dedicating their best work by combining the beauty intrinsic in artistic craftsmanship with the technical mastery of the mechanisms of time. Three major collections each offer their own interpretation of time in the feminine gender.
The Malte collection extends the celebration of its 100th anniversary with a seductive emphasis of its curvaceous case.
Patrimony is home to original creations in the Contemporary and Tradition styles that showcase the jewellery-making skills of the manufacture’s gem-setters.
Métiers d’Art collection, called Florilège, draws from ancient knowledge to steal a woman’s heart with three outstanding models.
2013 Star of the Show: Métiers d’Art Florilège collection
This trilogy pays a vibrant tribute to the delicacy of English botanical illustration in the 19th century. The plants, taken from Robert John Thornton’s 'The Temple of Flora', published in 1799, grow over the dials of watches that combined the artistic crafts of enamelling, guillochage and gem-setting.
“Temple of Flora” was an illustrated book of the different species of plants known to the world at the time. It featured illustrations of various species commissioned to the most talented botanists but Vacheron Constantin chose three particular illustrations: the White Lily, the Queen, and the China Limodoron.
The exquisite dials first go through guillochage, where the texture and motif is carved out and outlined with gold wire. After this, the outlined areas are painted with enamel, the outlines acting as cells (cloisonné enamelling) and the guilloche adds further texture underlying the transparent enamel. The enamel process is performed in multiple colours and each dial is fired numerous times.
The end result is a trio of limited edition watches featuring these dials that are faithful works of art of illustrations that were already works of art. This exquisite bouquet is only available as part of two limited editions; the trio with round diamond bezels – limited to 20 sets worldwide, and a trio with baguette diamond bezels – limited to only five sets worldwide.
Can you tell the difference between the following two models?
One has round diamonds and the other has baguette diamonds.
Other Novelties 2013:
The new Malte Lady comes in a case measuring 28.30 x 38.75 mm, curved to hold delicate wrists. An Alligator leather strap or a satin band make a ladylike connection to the buckle in the shape of a half Maltese cross, which can be plain or set with diamonds.
The cases have diamond-set bezels (50 round-cut diamonds) with the option to have dials of partly paved diamonds.
Powered by the Caliber 1202 Energy Quartz movement
Patrimony Contemporaine watches embrace the present, the Patrimony Traditionnelle models lay claim to a classic style in keeping with watchmaking’s historical legacy. Finally, the Patrimony High Jewellery timepiece is a reminder that the craftsmen of fine watchmaking can unite their talents with the most skilful jewellers.
Patrimony Traditionnelle Ladies' manual-winding
In pink or white gold, the slender 33 mm case of the new Patrimony Traditionnelle for women is accentuated with 54 round-cut diamonds set in the bezel. The minute track is painted in brown or grey with applied hour markers and Dauphine hands made from solid gold over an opaline silver-toned dial.
Powered by a mechanical manual-winding movement, Calibre 1400, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.
A lady’s watch with a diameter of 36mm. Two versions combine style and technique. In the new design, the clean lines of the case are softened by the warmth of pink gold.
The first version has an opaline silver-toned dial framed by a bezel circled with round diamonds. The diamond-set minutes scale is another feature that ties the watch to the spirit of the times.
The second version, paved with almost 800 diamonds, pays a further tribute to the Maison’s expertise in jewellery. The gems take over the entire surface of the dial and invade the bezel and the outside of the bracelet.
Cal 2450 automatic winding movement.
A lady’s watch with a diameter of 36mm. Two versions combine style and technique. In the new design, the clean lines of the case are softened by the warmth of pink gold.
The first version has an opaline silver-toned dial framed by a bezel circled with round diamonds. The diamond-set minutes scale is another feature that ties the watch to the spirit of the times.
The second version, paved with almost 800 diamonds, pays a further tribute to the Maison’s expertise in jewellery. The gems take over the entire surface of the dial and invade the bezel and the outside of the bracelet.
Patrimony High Jewellery
Powered by a mechanical manual-winding movement, Calibre 1400, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.
For men, the 2013 standout is the Patrimony Traditionelle in platinum with grey dial. This is the first platinum variant offered in the simple 3-hand watch design with the 4400 caliber, the calibre with the longest power reserve in this watch category.
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in VC forum, http://vacheron.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-14/pi-5718938/ti-843583/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 20:22:27
SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Van Cleef & Arpels (M. Teillol-Foo, Fr-X Overstake & PuristSPro Team)
Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: Poetic Wishes (His & Her)
Lady Arpels Poetic Wish 39 mm Automaton 5-minute Repeater
Midnight Poetic Wish 43 mm Automaton 5-minute Repeater
2013 Brand Themes: A World of Movement, Lightness and Grace
Van Cleef & Arpels maintains a simple philosophy - do what they do best in three collections and usually in 22-piece limited editions:
2013 Star of the Show. Poetic Complication -- Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée
Six years after launching the Poetic Complication Féérie watch, Van Cleef & Arpels reprises their obsession with the female form in 2013 with the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée watch. Half-dancer, half-butterfly, she continues the tradition of ballerinas and fairies that are staple motifs of the Maison.
“I’ve been dreaming that I was a ballerina, and that I was spending my whole life dancing as lightly as a butterfly…” -- Anna Pavlova
In the 1940s, Van Cleef & Arpels developed a reputation for ballerina clips, that were avidly collected. Louis Arpels (one of Estelle Arpels’ brothers) – who resided in New York then – was a passionate admirer of dance. he shared this passion with his nephew Claude.
The Maison created a troupe of ballerinas inspired by legendary personalities such as La Camargo (18th century dancer), or the Russian prima ballerina Anna Pavlova. Their poses were captured and adorned with costumes and headdresses of precious stones, while single rose-cut diamonds represent their faces.
The association between Van Cleef & Arpels and Dance continued through a relationship between Claude Arpels and the famous choreographer George Balanchine. Their shared love for gems evolved into a collaboration that resulted in a new Balanchine ballet entitled Jewels. Inspired by emeralds, rubies and diamonds, it was first performed in New York in April 1967.
The fairies and ballerinas created since the 1940s have now been joined by enchanting nymphs, nereids and lady butterflies, like the Notte Azzurra clip from the collection Bals de Légende (2011).
With this double retrograde movement with time on demand, the Maison recants its poetic vision of time. The retrograde display hands – instead of turning about an axis – trace an arc before returning to their initial position to begin another cycle.
The added complication is when the user presses a button at the 8 o’clock position, the ballerina’s tutu comes to life. The veil indicating the hours rises first, followed by the second veil which positions itself against the minute scale.
The tutu veils remain in place, enabling the time to be read, then return simultaneously to their initial positions. One of the feats of this complication lies in its fluid movement: the ballerina appears to move her wings with grace and poise.
Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée timepiece was inspired by the mechanism of a piece from Van Cleef & Arpels watchmaking heritage: the Magicien Chinois pocket watch from 1927. At the push of a button, the Chinese figure indicates the hours and minutes by raising its arms. The retrograde display has today become emblematic of the Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetic Complications collection.
Chinese Magician pocket watch, 1927
Other Novelties 2013:
Four auspicious symbols – the lily-of-the-valley, the lotus flower, the dandelion and the swallow – are depicted.
Charms Extraordinaire Muguet
Charms Extraordinaire Féérie Dandelion
Charms Extraordinaire Hirondelles
Charms Extraordinaire Lotus
Papillon Extraordinary Dials
Lady Arpels Papillon Bleu Nuit
Lady Arpels Papillon Orange Solaire
Lady Arpels Papillon Rouge Gourmand
Lady Arpels Papillon Extraordinaire
Lady Arpels Papillon Noir Argent
Cerfs-Volants Extraordinary Dials
New interpretation of the butterfly in the shape of the kite motif. A symbol of protection, slicing through the air with the same graceful flutter, it complements the Maison’s other faithful renditions of movement. These new dials are embellished by a festive ballet of kites, their bright colors evoking so many joyful moods.
Lady Arpels Cerf-Volant Carmin
Lady Arpels Cerf-Volant Indigo
Lady Arpels Cerf-Volant Fuchsia
Lady Arpels Cerf-Volant Cyan
To post comments, please go to MTF's original post in HoMe forum, http://home.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-17/pi-5718948/ti-843593/s-0/
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-02-05 20:25:17
by the offerings every year. The ballerina is my pick of of 2013.
VCA is very much under appreciated. Perhaps its my own exposure.
Thanks for the report.
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