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SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Audemars Piguet

SIHH 2013 PuristSPro Report: Audemars Piguet (M. Cornella & PuristSPro Team)

Last Year's (2012) Star of the Show: Royal Oak 40th Anniversary Edition

2013 Themes:

1) Tradition and Complications.

2) Women's Collection.

2013 embarks upon a new period for AP. Francois-Henry Bennahmias, who started his illustrious career at AP in 1996, was officially nominated as the new company CEO. Without question, Francois has a road map for years to come.

For Audemars Piguet, 2013 also continues the work started in 2011 of brand repositioning. The Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore will not overshadow the brand itself. New novelties show a continued development of the Jules Audemars line, particularly within the Women's collection. A renewed focus has been placed upon the emphasis of core values. One such example is the prominence of high complications, an AP specialty since the origins of the company in 1875. There are several new Grande Complications, as well as the Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph.

This year shows a strengthening of the foundations at AP. The dealer network is being solidified. AP remains committed to completing present orders and meeting current demand. Customer service and the buying experience remain top priorities.

Which leads to the underlying theme of the 2013 Collection - Tradition / Complications, and the Women's Collection.

2013 Star of the Show: Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

Perhaps no greater tribute to the 20th Anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore could be made than the new series of Grande Complication pieces. Here is the titanium case with black ceramic bezel version:

Other Novelties 2013:

The brand has been working diligently to bring clear and concise definition to its core collection, while constructing the road map for the foreseeable future. I'm convinced the strategy is solid, and we will enjoy great things from AP for years to come. More on these important matters soon.

Tradition and Complications

Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph

Titanium case with white gold bezel:

Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual Calendar: Three New Editions

Three new Royal Oak Offshore perpetual calendar pieces were released in small limited editions. The case size is 42mm, and is offered in platinum (10 pieces), pink gold (25 pieces), and titanium (35 pieces).

Pink gold:

Titanium:

Royal Oak Offshore Diver Ceramic

This version has orange accents on the dial and is the first Diver to include an exhibition sapphire caseback, allowing the manufacture Calibre 3120 to be viewed

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

The 44mm Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is now offered with a ceramic case middle to match the ceramic bezel. This watch is essentially the same as the current forged carbon case / ceramic bezel 44mm Offshore, but is now all ceramic:

AP has been hard at work to ensure that the finishing work applied to their ceramic parts is equal to that of their steel parts, which are rather legendary within the watch industry for the amazing quality and level of detail achieved. Having handled this watch in person, I can attest that the goal has been reached.

I was thoroughly impressed with the brushed areas on the case.

Of course, machining ceramic to this level of detail and quality comes at a major increase in production time. It takes 12 hours to machine a single ceramic case middle, as opposed to 1.5 hours to machine the same part in steel. A ceramic bezel requires 8 hours of work; 45 minutes for the same bezel in steel.

The watch has a titanium caseback fitted with a sapphire crystal to allow viewing of the Manufacture Calibre 3126/3840 (365 parts, selfwinding, 55-hour power reserve). A rubber strap with titanium pin buckle secures this exquisite timepiece to the wrist.

Womens' Collection 2013

Women's watches are a large part of AP's 2013 theme. The collection is stunning.

Starting off, a 41mm Jules Audemars extra-thin with a gem-set bezel. Also of note is the use of the calibre 2120:

The 39mm Jules Audemars selfwinding features one of the most beautiful dial guilloches I have ever seen:

The Jules Audemars small seconds comes in a 33mm case and is offered with a new 7 row bracelet in matching pink gold. It has a very supple feel:

A 37mm Royal Oak selfwinding is available in white gold for the first time. This is also the first 37mm offered in full-set diamonds:

White gold 33mm Royal Oak quartz, with full gem-set case and bracelet:

And perhaps we will find a few others to discuss:

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