Cartier had the largest collection at SIHH, even compared to previous years. In terms of breadth as well as individual complications Cartier presented one of the most impressive collections at the fair.
It’s a long way to the end so we will start with the easy bits. The Calibre de Cartier, launched in 2010 as Cartier’s sporty masculine watch, now has a matching bracelet. Though the bracelet profile echoes the curves of the case, I find it reminiscent of the Rolex Oyster. But regardless of what I think Cartier will still sell very many of these.
A Chinese motif secret watch that flips open to reveal the time.
Aside from the Fine Watchmaking range, which will be covered further down, Cartier also beefed up its Metier d’Art collection. As the name suggests, the watches are decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques – enamelling, marquetry and mosaic.
Demonstrating a rarely seen enamelling technique, the Rotonde with bear motif has a dial of plique-à-jour paillonné enamel. Similar in principle to stained glass where the enamel is applied to a skeletonised frame, plique-à-jour paillonné enamel was first used by Cartier in the early 20th century but revived this year for this watch. The graduated tones on the dial are stunning and ethereal.
This Ballon Bleu with monkey motif is decorated with champlevé grand feu and set with diamonds.
Also decorated with the same enamel technique is this Santos 100 with hummingbird motif. Like the monkey Ballon Bleu, this Santos is not to my taste though I respect the craft it embodies.
One of my favourite watches of the fair is the Tortue XL jaguar motif from the Metier d’Art range. Hand-engraved in relief and decorated with champlevé grand feu enamel, this watch makes a radical statement. The detail of the jaguar is amazing – look at the close-ups of its eyes.
And on to the Fine Watchmaking collection at last. At the very top Cartier presented the Calibre de Cartier Grande Complication, containing a Renaud et Papi chronograph, perpetual calendar and tourbillon movement.
Three other high-end Calibre de Cartier models were also launched. The first is the perpetual calendar with retrograde previously available in the Tortue XL case.
Next is the Calibre de Cartier Multiple Time Zone, one of the most innovative time zone watches I have come across. Home time is shown on the day-night hand in the aperture from four to seven, while local time is shown on the main hands. These are linked to the cities disc on the side of the case which is rotated by a button integrated into the crown guards.
But two features set this watch apart. The first is what Carole Forestier calls a jetlag indicator. Displayed in the window on the upper half of the dial, it shows the difference between the local and home time. Second is summer time which is why the cities disc has two lines. The engraved symbols on the case denote North and South Hemisphere, as well as winter and summer, indicating which line of the city disc to read for the season.
The last Calibre de Cartier complication is the Astrotourbillon in titanium which was previewed at length on the Cartier forum here .
A notable new direction for the Fine Watchmaking collection is the addition of the Pasha case. Two models were presented, the first is a tourbillon with chronograph and eight day power reserve using a Renaud et Papi movement.
The other new Pasha is a skeleton flying tourbillon in 42 mm case. Though it uses almost the same movement as the earlier skeleton tourbillon, I like the looks and proportion of this one.
Using an almost identical movement is the Rotonde skeleton tourbillon which was previously only available in white gold. Now presented in rose gold making it very striking; it will probably look good on a ladies’ wrist.
Skeleton watches are the best seller in the Fine Watchmaking range and the Santos Dumont Skeleton in ADLC titanium case will certainly add to that success. For a conservative house like Cartier this is a radical step which takes the aesthetic of the Fine Watchmaking line in a whole other direction. This is one of the highlights of 2011, both for the watch itself and also for the bold departure from the norm for Cartier.
Also in white gold with baguette diamond-set case.
Notably the Tortue XL perpetual calendar, originally unveiled with an openworked dial, is now available with a silver guilloche dial in the classic Cartier style. This is highly reminiscent of the CPCP range, however, the new Tortue still retains the two level dial characteristic of the Fine Watchmaking collection.
Also in the Rotonde case is Cartier’s flagship complication for 2011, the Astroregulateur. This was a polarising watch based on my discussions with retailers, journalists and collectors at the fair. Opinion was either it is a ridiculous gimmick, or that it is a brilliant innovation. I see it as the latter. This was also previewed on the Cartier forum at length, and that can be seen here .
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2011-01-30 07:08:56 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2011-01-30 16:17:05