Roger Dubuis, along with Baume et Mercier, is one of the turnaround stories of SIHH. Management spent the last couple of years since the Richemont acquisition tightening up the production processes. Now with that done the collection will be rebuilt in a more tasteful direction, more James Bond and less Liberace.
This year sees the first entirely new model range introduced since Richemont’s takeover. Known as La Monegasque, the new range has a cushion case that is inspired by the famous Sympathie but not quite as dramatically shaped. Nevertheless I find it much more urbane than any of the Roger Dubuis of recent years. And prospective buyers would be pleased to know that these are priced more competitively than the comparable RD watches of recent years.
La Monegasque includes a chronograph, automatic, perpetual calendar and tourbillon. The details of the designs are worth noticing, like the black enamel border on the bezel found on some of the models. And I really like the serif font for the minute track and tachymetre.
The chronograph
The tourbillon
The automatic
The perpetual calendar, while attractive, has windows that are a tad too small in my opinion.
My pick of the new range is the chronograph, which uses the latest RD in-house calibre, the RD680. It is an automatic movement with microrotor featuring a column wheel chronograph. Created as the entry level chronograph movement for the brand, the RD680 is not quite as elaborate (look at the bridge shapes and levers) as the other RD calibres but nevertheless respectably constructed and finished to Geneva Seal standards. I would, however, strike out the clumsy “100% Swiss Made” line from the rotor.
A standout is the La Monegasque Big Number, a limited edition of 128 pieces. In black, red and green, it is inspired by a roulette wheel. The model name is tacky but the watch is a good combination of bright colours without looking silly.
The Excalibur line sees the addition of a 36 mm ladies’ model in numerous variants with different options of colours and stone settings.
And the Excalibur Double Tourbillon, the brand’s signature complication, has been tweaked.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2011-01-30 09:25:05 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2011-01-30 16:21:34