Miranda[PuristSPro Moderator]
5904
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 v 15300 "plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose"
Jul 21, 2018,02:48 AM
In 28 years of watch collecting I have never owned a Royal Oak, infact until I got the chance to do this review, I had never even tried one on my wrist!
So perhaps its kind of bizarre that an Oak novice like me should ever dare to even try a review!!
Recently I thought I really must see what all the fuss is about, enticed by all the pictures posted in this forum I headed off to a dealer. There is a waiting list here in the UK so the only option was grey and paying a premium. Should I desire one....
The original classic from 1972
To my surprise the dealer pulled out two, one less expensive a reference 15300.
Both were 39mm and with the signature blue dial.
The reference 15202
This is the daddy!
True to the 1972 original and with the same calibre 2120 movement. It has a petit tapisserie dial and applied AP logo at 6 o’ clock like the original. It’s also very thin at about 8mm
The clasp is very good and quite solid in constructing
The bracelet of course is pure magic, the detail of finishing is impeccable
Reference 15300
This had been discontinue, superseded by the ref 15400, but this is 41mm.
In terms of proportions the 15300 is definitely the more original.
I had a degree of prejudice against this, simply because its not the original jumbo.
But here is the reality, think of the 15300 in the same way as the Patek Philippe 5711. Like the 5711, the 15300 has an in-house movement, quick set date, centre seconds and a screw down crown.
In many respects this is the better all round watch compared to its illustrious forbear.
It’s definitely more practical.
It has the in house calibre 3120 with 3.0Hz frequency, bidirectional 22k rotor and 11 3/4 lignes diameter. It boasts a 60hour power reserve.
The bracelet is impeccable again and has an elaborate clasp mechanism (comfortable but looks less sturdy)
The dial has a grande tapisserie finish
The thickness is more at 9.4mm
But on the wrist you don’t feel it. The watch feels more hefty and sturdy- more practical and confidence inspiring.
15202 v 15300
Overall it really depends on what you are looking for. The 15300 was £5k less expensive and if you can be happy with a black or white dial the 15300 is half the value of a jumbo.
Pro and cons, the finish on the AP logo was distinctly better on the 15202, a minor detail maybe
The 15202 had a better clasp and of course the legendary movement- though the 3120 is a better movement except in emotional value
The dial is also more luxurious in the 15202
In an ideal world I would have both, one for Work and one for special events - the 15300 exceeded all expectations, I was truly impressed and it carries all the DNA but in a modern package
But if I had to have only one, of course it has to be the original.
Best
Imran