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Overview of the Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige de la France
This is a post I've been wanting to do for a long time because I love this model, but online data is often confusing and It took me a while to get things more or less in order.
I'll try to walk you through the variants of this very unique shaped watch, but please remember that, even if most of the information below comes from @thehourlounge and can therefore be considered reliable, I still have some doubts and uncertainties.
On June 23, 1972 Vacheron Constantin received the « Prestige de la France » award, being the first watch manufacturer to receive this recognition.
This award celebrated the new design of an asymmetrical and ultra-thin watch (ultra-thin thanks to its 1050 caliber with variable inertia balance regulator) which would become an icon of the Maison.
credit: @thehourlounge
Years earlier, in 1958, the airplane “La Caravelle” received this award, and in 1963 it was awarded to the famous transatlantic liner “Le France”.
credit: INA & Paris Match
This first collection of curved & asymmetrical watches has been offered in various styles and sizes under the following initial references:
- 35202 (or 2091) for men
- 15207 (or 7928) for ladies
- 35203 Dual-Time
The photo below is supposed to show "The original 'Prestige de la France' collection": why the indicated ref. number is 628 and can it be considered equivalent to 35202 or 15207, I haven't been able to decipher.
credit: @thehourlounge & Vacheron Constantin
credit: Ivoire France & @thehourlounge
credit: analog shift (black dial), Corrado Mattarelli (white dial Roman), Watch Club (champagne dial) & Antiquorum (last)
credit: oreficeria lupetta (1-3), Romain Réa (4) & Antiquorum
credit: @thehourlounge & antiquorum
Dim. 21 x 46 mm. Cal. 1050/B
credit: @wrsitlife
credit: Christie’s (1) & Phillips
26 x 33 mm & caliber 1055
credit: A Collected man (1-2) & Huntington Company
credit: The Eclecticum
credit: The Hour Lounge (1), Haute Time & Vacheron Constantin
Pieces were engraved on the back with the emblem of the association: a laurel-leaf crown surrounding the words “Prestige de la France”.
The award ceremony took place at the Ritz Hotel in Paris: a unique moment for the brand and it's CEO at the time, Mr. Jacques Ketterer, in presence of the Minister of Industrial and Scientific Development, Mr. Ortoli.
The artist Jean Carzou created a lithograph for Vacheron Constantin entitled "Temps qui passe" (Passing time), printed in limited copies to accompany the first series of watches produced.
The lithographic stone was destroyed in public after the award ceremony at the Ritz Hotel, definitively limiting the printing of the work.
credit: Ivoire France & @thehourlounge
Now let's look at the different references in chronological order.
A/ FIRST REFERENCES FROM THE 1970s
1/ REF. 35202 (or 2091) for men
Dim. 21 x 46 mm. Thickness: 7 mm.
Cal. 7''' 1050/3
credit: analog shift (black dial), Corrado Mattarelli (white dial Roman), Watch Club (champagne dial) & Antiquorum (last)
2/ REF. 15207 (or 7928) for women
credit: oreficeria lupetta (1-3), Romain Réa (4) & Antiquorum
3/ REF. 15706 gem set for women
credit: @thehourlounge & antiquorum
4. REF. 35203 DUAL TIME
Dim. 21 x 46 mm. Cal. 1050/B
credit: @wrsitlife
5. REF. 35703 gem set
credit: Christie’s (1) & Phillips
B/ REFERENCE 37010 from 1997
The 1997 model reference 37010 pays homage to its predecessors, incorporating the thin Calibre 1055, measuring just 2.1mm thick and offering a 40-hour power reserve.
The watch's back is engraved with "MCMLXXII" – the Roman numeral for 1972.
credit: A Collected man (1-2) & Huntington Company
C/ REFERENCES FROM THE EARLY 2000s
Two points worth noting:
- According to @thehourlounge, the 1972 model celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2002 with a limited edition with 6 different bracelets woven by the mythical Maison Lesage: unfortunately, I haven't been able to find any of these pieces.
- In the early 2000s, VC also launched a series of women's references grouped under the name "1972 Cambrée" (ref. 25010, 25015, 25515, 25516, 25517, 25611). This was, of course, an extension of the "Prestige de la France" line, but the case back beared no mention of it, contrarily to the first references just below: 25520 & 25521. I've added them in the comments below.
1/ REF. 25520 & 25521 circa 2002
23,5 x 32,5 mm & quartz movement
It seems to be a ladies quartz gem set variant of the ref. 37010. What distinguishes it from the "Cambrée" references seems to be the Roman "MCMLXXII" engraved on the case back.
credit: Sotheby’s
2/ REF. 25021 - EXCLUSIVE 250th ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION FOR PARTNERS & EMPLOYEES ONLY from 2005
The dial is special to this limited edition: an anthracite grey dial with 1755 and 2005 at 12 o'clock for the 250th Anniversary of the Maison.
Not a "true" Prestige de la France (no mention of 1972 on the back), but the case shape is very close to the previous ref. 37010.
24 x 31 mm & Quartz movement
credit: Huntington Company
25 x 47 x 8,72 mm & ultra-thin caliber 1003
D/ THE TWO LAST REFERENCES FROM 2013 CREATED FOR THE OPENING OF THE PARIS BOUTIQUE, 2 RUE DE LA PAIX
Both white gold
1/ REF. 33172/000G-9775
25 x 47 x 8,72 mm & ultra-thin caliber 1003
NB: the photos were taken by The Eclecticum, but the watch belongs to our beloved fellow member KMII.
credit: The Eclecticum
2/ REF. 33172/000G-9757 LIMITED EDITION of 40 PIECES
Another photo, posted by Robin aka jrwong23, can be seen here.
credit: The Hour Lounge (1), Haute Time & Vacheron Constantin
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Overview of the Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige de la France
This is a post I've been wanting to do for a long time because I love this model, but online data is often confusing and It took me a while to get things more or less in order. I'll try to walk you through the variants of this very unique shaped watch , b...
Definitely 1st series
Probably Black dial stick indicators. Someone on this forum has a black / grey dial with what looks like a guilloche. Those are nice too.
Totally didn't know about the Employee/Partner watch.
That's kind of cool! And now I know why they have 1972 in the back! I actually didn't know this rather important and somewhat obvious detail. Much appreciated! Learned something today! Never really considered these since they're so long - and my wrist isn...
Few watches have such an iconic design, imo.
And I prefer this watch to another famous one from 1972 😉 Cheers, Emmanuel
I personally prefer the 1976 iteration over the other famous 1972 watch you speak of!
Yes, this VC is indeed a very special icon!
As you can imagine…
One of my favorite VC references 😊👍🏻👌🏻 You missed the third generation, which I believe was ladies and quartz only and predated and then complemented the 4th generation launched in 2013. Here’s mine joining into your post: ...
Of course, I had you and your wonderful watch in mind
throughout the making of this post. Your photos of your watch have been a constant pleasure for me over the months. Would you have any ref number regarding the 3rd gen I unfortunately missed? I don’t think I see what it is. Thank you. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you, the numbers enabled me to find them.
They all belong to the renamed "1972 Cambrée" line, which is of course an extension of the original Prestige line. I may add them to the thread for the sake of exhaustivity. Thanks again! Ref. 25010 Ref. 25015 Ref. 25510 Ref. 25515 Ref. 25516 Ref. 25517 R...
Very cool indeed.
The white 37010 looks good, true, but I think I prefer the original more elongated shape. So, probably first or last ref. for me (1972 or 2013). Best, Emmanuel
Thank you so much, Tony.
This reference is so unique and appealing that I wanted to try doing it justice. My research lasted several weeks, even months in fact, accumulating data progressively. Best, Emmanuel
Thanks for sharing. Truly iconic. Here’s my 2091 in white gold , from 1974 per archive.
I thought there was another version called the cambree from 1990’s or 2000’s but not 100% sure. ...
This is a wonderful example! One I would love to own!
Thanks for sharing. I'll check concerning the Cambrée, about which I know nothing. Best, Emmanuel
You were right about the "1972 Cambrée": here they are!
Ref. 25010 Ref. 25015 Ref. 25510 Ref. 25515 Ref. 25516 Ref. 25517 Ref. 25611 ...
Thanks for the informative post as always😊
I think I prefer the last white gold reference to any of the other ones. This watch certainly has its own identity and character, but I can’t help but think it looks like the middle ground between a Tank and a Crash.
I see what you mean,
but I personally like the Prestige much more than a Tank or a Crash. Far more intriguing than a Tank and not playful and provocative as a crash. Just my personal feeling of course. The ones from 2013 are great references indeed, especially with the 1003 c...
I don’t like the Crash better than this VC model,
I was just making an observation as to its style. I’m actually not a big fan of the Crash, I have never understood the hype or crazy prices that come with it. However, I do like some Tank Americaine and Cintree models better than the VC, especially some p...
Wow, the first example here is very much to my taste.
Wasn't aware of it and I love its 1937 source of inspiration. Both piece unique unfortunately. Thanks for sharing. ...
my favourite-the 33172 from 2013-KMII'S
could you clarify. the back photo showing how the strap is attached it looks as only 2 small screws hold on the strap? why was traditional spring bars not fitted-as in all the previous models-is there some reason i am missing.
For a reliable answer to your question
you should ask KMII or Cpt Scarlet directly: they own a ref. 33172. Best, Emmanuel
Our resident scholar does it again!
This is a reference I want to find and try it on in person. I really like KMII’s version - the rose gold hands and the dial texture really elevate the reference to another level.
Yes, KMII's watch is fantastic.
Hopefully, you'll find one to try on someday. Have a greta weekend, Sebastian. Best, Emmanuel
Yes, I couldn't agree more.
The 2013 Boutique edition are very hard to find. The original 35202 (or 2091) is a little easier to find, but not always in good condition. I like the dial of this one listed by Bachmann & Scher, but the case seems to have been heavily polished. credit: B...
1972 Launch Brochure
Featuring "&" Thanks for helping us celebrate this iconic model, it is elegance personified. The matching cufflinks are pretty sweet! Regarding the unusual 3-digit reference numbers, I understand it was a thing VC introduced in 1974 when they re-set t...
Thank you very much for sharing this nice and rare document.
I’m really attracted to this model, but still have to see one in real life someday. Preferably an original one 35202 or one of the 2013 boutique reissue. Best, Emmanuel