Marcus Hanke
[PuristSPro Moderator]
11297
May I put a few things straight...
Both the Ebel cal. 137 chronograph and the UN cal 32 perpetual calendar are based on the old Lémania cal. 1340 (with central minute hand, used in the Omega Speedmaster 125), not the 1350. UN and Ebel bought the exclusive rights on the cal. 1340 and commissioned Lémania (then still independent from the Swatch Group) to produce certain components for the two movements. UN started to produce these parts inhouse, too, later. So Swatchgroup had nothing to do with the use of the original movement, in the contrary: when they intended to make use of this movement, they had to learn that they did not own it.
As far as I know, the new UN chronograph movement, based on the Ebel cal. 137, does not have a column wheel, but is lever-operated (still). What makes it interesting technically, though, is its Pellaton construction of the automatic winding mechanism. A highly efficient construction, powering the legendary IWC cal. 854x movements as well.
So you might be able to save some money, since you do not have to acquire neither the Ebel, nor the UN chronographs to get a Lémania 1350.
Marcus
Available on the marketplace
1,393 IWC listings are live on the eBay market and 587 collector listings on the WatchProSite marketplace.
The Classic UN...
I am not a person with the resources to build an extensive high-end collection, and in fact I have not bought one watch this year at any price point—hence my sparse participation here for the last many months. So, when I purchase a watch from a premium br...
Great job - I love this watch
It’s fun when the opportunity and resources and the will all coincide. Cazalea
Looks great, Rick!
I hope you will post more freely - does not matter what you have or how often you add! I am a Moderator here and my only acquisition in 12+ months is a $400 Seiko.
Well, this is true. There is a condition on this website known as "Vladding"
This means to torment fellow members with awesome photos and information of a watch they desire. Soon, they weaken and succumb to the pressure. It is really one of the very special practices unique to WatchProSite. And you might guess who this tradition i...
Hi Rick...
congratulations on netting your UN. In my opinion our love of watches is not all about spending vast sums of money, I’ve enjoyed finding some great vintage watches that are less than $2,000. Thanks for sharing your new watch with us.
Rick, That's A Great Watch And....
.... What a great post. Your Ulysse Nardin Chronometer is beautiful.
U-nbeleivably N-ice!
The only UN's I wonder about are the ones I (regrettably) let go of. Enjoy that beauty! Congratulations on that acquisition!
Oh, I can relate to that....
I'm somewhere around 60. Would be around 90 without selling some. I only get upset with selling if I miss a piece so much I have to find that particular one again to repurchase it. There's been 2 UNs on that list but that doesn't include the Blue Max I so...
Well done Rick!
You are correct that the Marine line is the essence of UN. You made a great choice and the watch looks terrific on your wrist. Congratulations. M4
One advantage of an 8” wrist is no reluctance to wear a 43mm watch.
But vintages can look a bit dainty.  —Rick ...
Looks great man!
UN has always flown under the radar with some fantastic pieces. Movement and rotor are nicely adorned as well.
A very good decision ...
The Marine Chronometer in my opinion is among the most versatile of all timepieces. It appears great on the wrist even with only bathing trousers on, or a suit, or casual. As you said: The same good figure in a Ford and a Maserati. Especially the model yo...
Thanks, Marcus
The watch I wore into the store was a Zenith Captain Chronograph, which is both less fancy and dressier. That’s the key to the versatility—it is fancy without being too dressy. I have as a long-term curatorial goal to own every variant of the Lemania 1350...
May I put a few things straight...
Both the Ebel cal. 137 chronograph and the UN cal 32 perpetual calendar are based on the old Lémania cal. 1340 (with central minute hand, used in the Omega Speedmaster 125), not the 1350. UN and Ebel bought the exclusive rights on the cal. 1340 and commis...
As I understand it, the 1350 doesn’t exist per se
But is the designation given to the modifications done by both Ebel and Breguet when both were related through Investcorp and for several previous years. But UN, as I understand it, lost access to their UN32 parts when Lemania and Breguet were sold to Swa...
Accuracy is astonishing
Actual wrist performance—I have worn the watch continuously for six days except when working out (I use a Swatch Sistem51 for sweaty stuff). More accurate by far than any of my mechanical watches, many of which are chronometers. Nearly as accurate as stan...