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To each his own

 

Personally I prefer under 40mm but I have larger watches because they offer something different and a "presence". You raise the point of what is a "proper dress watch?" Is it this:



Or this?



Or this?






However, this new Grand Seiko is not a dress watch, in my opinion. It's a technical masterpiece in Grand Seiko Style as you can read here. 

Simplicity, purity, legibility, accuracy, durability, practicality. Form and function in harmony IN A JAPANESE WAY.

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Three Barrels: Power and efficiency

In order to realize the eight-day (192 hours) power reserve of Caliber 9R01, three barrels are used. They are arranged in sequence for expanded capacity and reduced energy transmission loss. 

The whole movement has been designed to reduce friction between parts that would otherwise lead to loss in the transmission of the energy derived from the mainspring. Precise manufacturing and polishing delivers reduced friction, as does the removal of the intermediate escape wheel which increases the efficiency of the energy transfer by 10%.

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Thick: A solid, one-piece bridge for enhanced durability and precision

In the assembly of most watch movements, the gears and other components are placed on the main plate which acts as a base and these parts are then held in place on the main plate by a second component, known as a bridge. For Caliber 9R01, however, Grand Seiko developed a new system in which these two parts are fused into a single, one-piece bridge. This system delivers enhanced durability and is, we believe, a unique design.

The thickness of this one-piece bridge is some three times greater than any other Spring Drive caliber. Made possible by very high precision engineering, it provides a totally solid base on which all the components are secured in place more precisely. In addition, the greater thickness of the bridge enhances the durability of movement as the gear shafts are better protected in the event of impact or other shock.

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Proof of Concept: The Micro Artist Studio's first Spring Drive watch

Caliber 9R01 is the first Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement to be created by the Micro Artist Studio in Shio-jiri in the mountains of central Japan. This remarkable Studio has been responsible for many of the company’s great achievements, including the Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie and Minute Repeater.

That's what these guys and gals are doing and saying with this watch. Timekeeping perhaps +/- 1 second a month in a manually-wound, spring-driven watch.



Cheers,

Cazalea

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