Mark in Paris
[Purist]
10488
Well,
This is indeed a point of view shared by several forumners here and it is perfectly natural that I would also appreciate new calibers.
I love this new 31-260 (used in the 5235G) and this is what I'd like to see at every level. The 215 replacement will be coming soon imho as that is another one that needs to be replaced.
On the other hand, even if we've seen the 240 for a long while (patent dated 1977), I would say that, compared to similar traditional established brands, I feel the 240 and 324 are still up-to-date (and my own feeling would say even a little more).
The brand has provided the whole new line of 29-535 based movements, the 31-260 AC, the 5175 Grandmaster Chime that I imagine required some ressources for around 7 years, the integrated 28-520 spec. used in the 5930 (dial used as a baseplate) or the 5650G Advanced Research (pushers and spiral leading to an excellent accuracy).
Hence, I would say that it would be great but my perception is that it is not that necessary or urgent today, even if there would be improvements for sure.
For some examples you gave (there is also Ulysse Nardin for the date with the Sonata, if I'm not wrong) it is not always applied to all the models in the line-up but a few. I think that lower production brands like FPJ or other indies can include them easier than a larger brand could (volumes, reliability issues etc...). But that's just my perception of it.
About the antimagnetic, yes it would be another nice improvement. The thing is that it requires some very different material (such as Silicon). I understood that, usually, the antimagnetic potential is linked with the material used and not the thickness of the case etc... Thus the Spiral needs to be protected and a material that can't be magnetized is a good choice. THe thing is that using Silicon on a larger scale is not that easy (higher manufacturing cost, resistance to shocks ...).
About the antimagnetic watches, I noticed that now all the 240 and 324 calibers from the brand have the Silicon spiral (called Spiromax), it should maybe then be much less prone to magnietism? Something that would be interesting to check because it is a feature that I don't think many other similar established brands use as much.
On the other hand, there are people who wouldn't like to have these Silicon parts in traditional watches. Not easy :p
Thanks for the input Gary, it is an interesting field to develop for brands 
Best, Mark
More posts:
The date wheel somehow flipped back in it’s normal position.
But I dare not touch the date pusher anymore because it will probably go wrong again. So I guess it needs a service to check out what causes the malfunctioning. This issue has raised the following question: Why would I tolerate a movement (at this price l...
Arie, you misunderstood.
This was a 'feature', meant to see if you are paying attention.
I perfectly understand and agree with you...
...of course the full conception of the movement is different but PP is supposed to be an innovator and trend setter in complicated watches so they should invent their solution which would combine the beauty of a traditional movement and an innovation suc...
Did you try changing the date during the hours of 9pm-1am?
Most date change mechanisms (crown and button adjustment alike) have a 4-6 hour window during which the mechanism is in a position that you’re advised not to change the date. I know the 324 caliber had (still has?) a sticking datewheel issue, but wasn’t a...
Ah… someone’s been a silly boy then.
I’d set the time to 6am, then fully cycle the datewheel, and then set the time. Monitor it to see that it changes and displays properly thereafter.
Never read the manual...
I’ll try to dig it up this year and read it. But I still stand by my statement: for this amount of €€.€€€,€€ one should not need to think about anything besides the date itself when setting it.
Price is immaterial, given it bears little relation to intrinsic part costs – it’s engineering prowess that you should be looking for, not the name printed on the dial!
In any event, you don’t need the owners manual now, since I’ve told you the time during which NOT to adjust the date, but it you still want to have a read, here’s the PDF version .
Well, in fact that's how the usual mechanical movement date complication works
Thus, fundamentally, the date feature of a mechanical watch cannot be set whenever we want, by design and for every brands in the standards collections. it is only when a brand wishes to emphasize a specific skill that they decide to develop such a featur...
It would be good for a brand like Patek or Audemars to invent something to solve this (let’s call it a) shortcoming.
It would bring great marketing value (just look at Zenith now).
Indeed
I don't know what are the consequences in terms of methods, tools, thus costs. And, as it will be only available for a few brands (until everyone switches to this "secure" display), meantwhile a premium would impact the selling price. And for high-end bra...
My JLC.....
If you look under the month sub-index, there is a panel that is just under the July.....when its white, it is "safe" to adjust the date, when it goes red, it is not. I think PJS is correct about the process. At certain points, the watch becomes more vulne...
Patek Leadership
i don't think modern Patek is known as an innovative watch company. It's still using the 240 movement which is a 1980's creation, Patek was late in adopting silicon parts, and both Rolex and Omega are offering movements with accuracy and antimagnetism tha...
I understand your frustration my friend .
I am allways very carefull when changing the date etc , like you i wish all movements needs to be like the moser and MB&F qp . Just change back and forwards whenever you want
That's of course not a normal issue
about which we discussed in your former thread. My answer will still be the same and I'll let you read my suggestion as well as the ones from other purists back then www.watchprosite.com If you feel you have a problem with your watch, you should g...
(I'm not posting this to nag)
It was simply a thought that entered my mind (the date changing thing without restrictions). Of course I will take the watch to an AD and I’m very confident that it will be fixed perfectly. Just don’t want to miss it for that long (love that watch), so I’...
No problem Arie
I didn't take it as such, it is just that I imagine that it is really not pleasing at your place knowing that it might happen again because there is a problem. And the solution would be to see you AD but the later you go and I think the more they can deci...
Ok 👍🏼 😊
It’s hard parting with this watch. But in the winter months it will be easier not to have it around so I will take it in soon(ish)... Best Arie
It may be fine now. Can I suggest you take my suggestion above seriously, before resigning yourself to it needing sent away.
Once you’ve cycled the dates with the pusher, do the same for a week’s worth using the crown at the time setting position. Run the last hour of the changeover slower, and if nothing untoward occurs, then adjust it with the pusher (outside the danger timef...
The date change should be instantaneous.
Didto for their perpetuals. There is no other justification for using the same old movements except greedines. And don't tell me that old movements / modules lead to better reliability! Not aware of any massive recalls since Lange switched to instantaneou...
I think there may be some other justifications...
than greediness. Indeed, I think that the brand has quite the means to develop such a feature without being scared of spending too much of their assets (to say the least). Hence, I think that there are other reasons and it may be a little too quick to con...
Mark, Thank you for the thoughtful reply
Greedy or not, we can only guess as we will never get access to margins or R&D budget numbers. But your main point is absolutely valid, the collector's community does not represent the average PP buyer. For a "boutique" brand such technical developments m...
Simpler Point
Aside from the high complications, I think Patek watchmaking is lagging. Just as one example, The 240 is an ancient machine. I expect Patek to offer top end accuracy, technology and anti-magnetism throughout its entire line. There's no reason for them not...
Well,
This is indeed a point of view shared by several forumners here and it is perfectly natural that I would also appreciate new calibers. I love this new 31-260 (used in the 5235G) and this is what I'd like to see at every level. The 215 replacement will be ...
Thanks Mark
thoughtful reply. one more thing - FWIW, I am not a fan of "in house" certification of movements, like the PP seal. The conflict of interest is just too great.
Indeed, on the principal, this looks like a strange idea
I must say that personally, I don't really care about the different hallmarks :p I look at the watches I'd like to have, that are appealing to me and if they don't look good, I leave them aside and move on, whatever the brand is. Whatever the brand on tha...
Accuracy
Mark, thanks for your thoughts. Accuracy of time keeping is a factor for me in selecting new watches. vintage is altogether a different story - we do not expect accuracy. But in 2017, lack of high end accuracy (+/- 2 sec per day) in a new watch is a no go...
I know it is indeed a concern for many watch enthusiasts
and this is quite natural considering a watch's purpose. It also shows how they master their calibers. Thanks Gary! Best, Mark
