That’s The Whole Point Of A Perpetual Calendar!

Jan 25, 2020,10:58 AM
 

The whole point of spending the large amount extra for the Perpetual Calendar complication is that you never have to correct it, even for Leap Years like this year.

But you have to always have the watch running or else you will have to make corrections. So why spend the huge premium on a Perpetual Calendar if you are going to be making corrections?

Watch winders are inexpensive and can be set to only run enough to keep your watch wound and can be battery powered so that with high-quality batteries and how little power it uses, it will last a number of years before it runs out and you have the ability to put it anywhere, including a safe deposit box and it will keep the watch running.

Watches are designed to run continuously with servicing as little as once per decade and still maintain the accuracy of it being new (that’s Roger Smith’s co-axial escapement service recommendation), most will be less, but it’s good for getting the watch professionally polished and most brands update parts known to have had issues or like Journe, if they have improved a part since you bought it, no matter what, they will update that part.

It’s okay to let them run continuously, centuries of engineering by Breguet and Daniels amongst many hundreds of others spent their lives improving the ability for a watch to run longer with less wear. The English invented jewels for all friction points (brought by Breguet to the Continent for usage beyond very limited use in the escapement. Abraham-Louis Breguet was the one who started using jewels for all friction surfaces in the late 1790s on the European continent which made it standard practice in the industry in the years to come over 1800s...his problem was even with jewels, which significantly helped, he lacked quality oils but we don’t have that issue). They have spent so much energy into making watches wear extremely, extremely slowly and with proper servicing to clean and relubricate per your manufacturer’s recommendation, it will last thousands of years. I have 225 year-old watches that even with no jewels outside of the escapement, still are amazingly accurate for simple pivots in a hole drilled into brass and all of these years later, all things considered, it’s amazing how accurate that primitive technology still is. I have an 1808 pocket chronometre that could be made to perform as well as your average modern, Swiss mechanical watch today.

So don’t worry that by it running continuously its entire life that you or are hurting the watch or wearing it out too soon. Even with our modern lubricants, except for the time-keeping accuracy degrading, you technically don’t even need to service the watch 25 years or more and you won’t significantly wear the pinions in the jewel bearings. But that’s just dumb. You want a clean, serviced watch that has been re-adjusted so that it keeps as good of time or better than a quartz watch (any watch of this quality that has a Perpetual Calendar will, excepting for slight damage from knocking it into a wall really hard while wearing it or dropping it...enough to not break anything, but possibly do a tiny bit of damage inside somewhere...will keep as good of time accuracy-wise as quartz watches. Maybe there was a big difference in the ‘70s compared with the average mechanical ‘70s watch, but a well maintained and re-adjusted high-end watch from a high-quality brand today will perform as well or better than quartz even running continuously for its entire life).

I have yet to get a Perpetual Calendar for my collection (I personally feel like the Minute-Repeater is the highest complication not counting the Grand and Petite Sonnerie which is different because it usually uses its own barrel for independent power; the Perpetual Calendar is second...sorry, but a Tourbillon is NOT a complication.

Don’t have a Perpetual Calendar and waste the incredible engineering that goes into never having to adjust your calendar because you let it stop. It needs to run continuously its entire life and then you get the benefits of the complexity of a bunch of mechanical parts that can keep track of not only how many days are in a month (an Annual Calendar), but will correct every 4 years for Leap Year (a Perpetual Calendar). If you want it to stop, just get a normal calendar (I highly recommend Breguet’s simple calendar watches because you can quickly set them even if you are just passed the date the watch stopped and you have to only go forward to get though all of the dates to get back to the correct date).

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Comments: view entire thread

 

to wind or not to wind a perpetual when not in use

 
 By: Chromatic Fugue : January 25th, 2020-09:04
UntiI I bought my 3940 in November, I'd never owned a watch that is difficult to reset after it winds down. Now that I've had my 3940 for a couple of months, it's time to give some wrist time to my other watches. I don't have a watch winder and don't inte... 

Perpetual

 
 By: Weems@8 : January 25th, 2020-09:40
Honest, i do not own a perpetual. I use a watch winder. But i wil look for a perpetual, when i wish to buy an infinity date watch. I wil put a perpetual on a watch winder, if i had one. No problem to reset. ...  

I personally would recommend to

 
 By: MTR : January 25th, 2020-10:32
let it stop and adjust it again when you want to use it. Winding it every day or putting it on an automatic winder is like wearing your watch steadily. And IMHO in this case you will need a service sooner. Just my 2c. Best Thomas P.S.: I have asked differ... 

That’s The Whole Point Of A Perpetual Calendar!

 
 By: bryanhiler : January 25th, 2020-10:58
The whole point of spending the large amount extra for the Perpetual Calendar complication is that you never have to correct it, even for Leap Years like this year. But you have to always have the watch running or else you will have to make corrections. S... 

Thank you for this very

 
 By: MTR : January 25th, 2020-12:22
explorative post! Best Thomas

I fully agree.

 
 By: xyz123abc : January 25th, 2020-14:26
And it is more wear to a watch setting it (strange enough) than letting it run. And watches are actually constructed to run continuously. “Wear” to a watch movement is mostly related to oil - at least more than parts.

For me a large part of our passion

 
 By: sham1 : January 25th, 2020-12:47
is the actual winding of the watches. I wind my watches daily unless I am away on holiday. My perpetual calendar is on a winder and although I know a number of purists who do not use winders, I personally am partial to winders, particularly the Planet by ... 

Superb post.

 
 By: Costa (aka Connie) : January 25th, 2020-13:25
I have a Perpetual Chronograph 5270R. I wind it everyday. It keeps excellent time and I am not concerned about wear. When I travel I don’t usually take this piece so I let it run down. Then when I return I set it with a bamboo skewer (not the gold pusher)... 

I agree with Sham.

 
 By: Costa (aka Connie) : January 25th, 2020-13:26
I enjoy setting and winding my watch. It’s part of my connection with the watch. It gives me great pleasure to do this. This is one of the reasons I purchased a manual wind watch.

Sham, the Planet by Favre is a spectacle indeed.

 
 By: Robert65 : January 28th, 2020-02:49
Beautiful and functional. Even if you only stored your Patek on a Planet (without the winder spinning) it would be a magical way to display all sides of your timepiece. Indulgent, yes, but beautiful. Any chance you could share a photo?

Hi Robert

 
 By: sham1 : January 28th, 2020-10:04
I am currently in Geneva and will share a photo of the planet with you when I return to Malaysia in 2 weeks time. I am actually planning to get a set of 3 planets as I have noticed that all my Pateks are automatic watches and to have them all working in a... 

I have had my IWC Perpetual on a winder for 17 years

 
 By: cazalea : January 25th, 2020-15:35
I wear it off and on; the rest of the time its on the Orbita winder with a couple other watches. It's too much hassle to mess with setting the day, date, month, year and especially with a screw-down crown. I fully agree that it's made to do this happily -...  

Thanks everyone! Now, a 3940-specific question ...

 
 By: Chromatic Fugue : January 25th, 2020-15:55
Let’s say I wind the watch every day rather than putting it on a winder when not in use. Ordinarily I would wind a watch about 40 turns and not worry about overwinding it. But the manual for this watch, with its 240Q movement, warns that it should be woun... 

40 is too much considering its an auto with micro rotor.

 
 By: geross : January 25th, 2020-18:00
Just follow the manual and wear it 2 hours a day on your wrist. It can last for 24 28 hours at rest. 2 hours a day and it will keep on running. My experience and opinion. Geross 😊

There is no clutch in this movement allowing free separate manual wind.

 
 By: watch-er : January 27th, 2020-10:01
Self-winding watches which can also be manually wound fully each day will say so. If not, the manufacturer says just a few winds as PP does. Something will break if you fully wind each day.

Don’t think so

 
 By: lascases : January 27th, 2020-11:14
You can wind the 3940 forever without causing (visible) damage. At least my two 3940 have no problem with manual winding on a daily basis. Wear might be slightly higher in the long run, though.

Do not manually wind the watch

 
 By: watch-er : January 27th, 2020-09:54
it was designed to be wound through the rotor. PP recommends just up to 10 winds to get it started if it runs down. The watch winder is the way to go. The PC module is very thin and the thinly applied oils can dry out so it is best to keep it moving. It w... 

This makes sense.

 
 By: Costa (aka Connie) : January 27th, 2020-12:46
What do you recommend for manual wind Perpetual Chronographs? I try to wind every day but I do end up setting it multiple times after travel.

Much to think on here ...

 
 By: Chromatic Fugue : January 27th, 2020-19:28
Turns out I have the OEM winding box that the 3940 came with. I put the watch in the box when I left home for a few days but was disappointed to discover the watch had stopped the day after I left. I assumed something was wrong with the box, but I now won...