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Patek Philippe

Patek folding buckles.

 

Used to be in the olden days, all the watches sold here in the US came with the 12.5mm Stern buckle (the pointed tang style buckle used today throughout the world which was originally designed by Henri Stern) and the folding buckle was an accessory purchased separately. The 14mm squared buckle was commonly referred to as the European buckle.


When the original ref 6000 was introduced, it was fitted with a folding buckle and thereafter many other watches also featured the folding buckle. 

It seemed at the time of the introduction of the 6000, prices were creeping up. The 6000 while priced higher along with the rest of the offerings, seemed like a deal because of the folding buckle. Similar situation with winders, before never supplied with watches, then with the 3940, etc. I don't think it was a throw in by any means but an extra which made the price increases less painful because something else was included other than the watch itself. There may be others here who may have noticed the same.

Over the years, I had clients who preferred the folding buckle. It certainly allowed straps to last longer and was no hassle to use.

I don't know if collectors prefer the folding buckle over the tang buckle. I believe it's more personal preference than anything else. But it seems there are a lot of folks who advocate the tang buckle for security reasons which I must agree. I have had the screw back out of the older style buckle (even with adhesive) which was a bit alarming but the newer buckles seem to have eliminated that issue.

I do like the appearance but find I change them periodically, currently using the Stern buckle.


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