Patek Philippe

Mark in Paris
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Hands-on overview: the 2016 Patek Philippe 5164R Aquanaut “Travel Time”

Hi everyone,

In 2016, a new version of the 5164 Aquanaut Travel Time was unveiled by Patek Philippe in rose gold to accompany the steel version introduced in the collection in 2012.

The Aquanaut is well known for being a very nice “all-around” Patek due to its composite strap, steel material and 120m water-resistance. It is a model that people are not afraid to wear in every occasion, even if this isn’t of course a real tool watch. However, it can be used as such if you don’t have something against dings and scratches.

That sportier spirit and use would not at first make it natural to think about a precious case material for that reference but all these sporty watches are not always used that way. Just like all divers are not used to diving either. It is a sporty look and a casual spirit that make Aquanaut owners wanting to wear it without caring much about scratches. Remember that it was the same feeling that motivated Patek Philippe to unveil the Nautilus in 1976: Patek owners wanted a watch they could wear outside the office for sport activities. Of course, the leather strap gold Calatrava model wasn’t very “a propos” for such purpose.

Hence, it isn’t a watch to be used for the tougher adventures but certainly a luxury watch that can face many sporting activities.

Of course, today, the world is different and such Aquanaut meets the pleasure of wearing a Patek Philippe in a more casual and modern way, even with suits, if the owners feel like it.

With the Travel Time version of the Aquanaut family, Patek confirms this evolution by providing a useful complication for people who are traveling from time to time and find convenient to be able to follow 2 time zones at the same time, while being able to change the local time easily.

From this evolution and need, you understand now why the choice to introduce this 5164 in rose gold is perfectly relevant.

THE WATCH

Closer to the watch now, I’m not going to make a review but I think that some elements are worth mentioning. Of course, the rose gold material gives a whole new look to the case (40.8mm from 10 to 4 o’clock); the alternate brushed and polished parts play together and the combination with the dark brown dial and well designed applied numerals are stunning in the metal.

I appreciate very much how they nicely crafted luminova-filled numerals. They are modern in style but definitely worthy of the details’ level and finishing we expect from such brand.

The composite strap is provided with its fold-over clasp.

On the movement side, the watch houses the 324 automatic caliber (with the Spiromax Silicon-based balance spring), ensuring high reliability and accuracy that make it at the right place in this reference.

On the mechanical level, the Travel Time complication has been developed in the cleverest way as it can be set back and forth without risking damaging the movement.

Firstly and most important, the hour hand is able to go forward or backward (with the pushers at 9 o'clock) and the date will then follow the hour hand passing midnight, hence forward and backward too. This is a major design feature that makes this Patek complication so special.

Secondly, the pushers at 9 o'clock can't be activated accidentally together. A little piece, linked to one button, is prevented from doing so by disengaging a lever that activates the right gear.

Thirdly, a cam integrated to the hour wheel prevents the date from a manual change around midnight.

This a very interesting complication in which many clever and simple (thus usually more reliable) ideas prevent the owner from making the wrong move.

This travel time is indeed very practical, that can be set very quickly (buttons and not via the crown) with safety for the movement.

CONCLUSION

I think that Patek has always created its own interpretation of a sporty watch. The Aquanaut is no exception, going a little further in the technical details in order to face more experiences than another reference might.

Today, the use for a sportier Patek, with a useful complication and in a precious material has found its right place and emphasizes the fact that Patek Philippe always tries to find coherence in their collection evolution. This is what the Aquanaut 5164R is all about.

The MSRP is around USD 51,000 and, if you wish, you can find more about the watch here on the official website: www.patek.com

I hope you enjoyed reading and please feel free to share your feelings about this rose gold version of the 5164 and you experiences with either 5164 or 5167. That would be a good launch for this year’s 20^th Aquanaut anniversary!

Best, Mark