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Japan's new old Brand: Factory Visit to MINASE: with true qualification
Factory visit report - MINASE [mi-nah-sei] : Japan's new old brand with true qualification.
I was fortunately invited to MINASE factory together with others - including a watch journalist, PR specialist, and a photographer. Minase is trying to notch up its brand image and get to the next level to get widely accepted and respected as a manufacture watch brand. But the truth is that Minase is already doing quite well in the watch making in Japan, just that fact is very little known.
0. Factory and surroundings
The nearest station - Yuzawa Station (about an hour ride from Omagari station where we got off Tohoku Shinkansen or bullet train, to which it takes 3 and a half hours from Tokyo Station, at the speed of 320km/h). And from this station, it takes again about 30 minutes to the factory - quite a trip, but well worth it.
Reminded me of the road from Geneva to Valle de Joux....
The factory houses 26 workers. With no brand or sign of the watch factory....
At the entrance of the factory. HiZ series, VY03.
1. Let me start from its history.
The name of the company is Kyowa Precision , a precision tool manufacturer, founded in 1963 by Mr. Kouichi Suzuki. Kyowa developed the special "step drill" to be used to open the hole for the crown of the watches and it sold quite well to the big watch brands. And then, those watch brands started asking Kyowa to make the watch cases altogether including of course drilling the hole for the crown stem. Along the way, Kyowa acquired the skill set for the high-end watch case making.
The time flies and the watch brands shifted case subcontractors to other countries. It was sort of a "crisis", but Kyowa then decided to make watches by themselves with the skill set they already possessed (except for the movement). Kyowa built the watch factory in Minase, Akita prefecture (north western part of Japan) in 1988, and the name of the location - Minase - became the brand name. Aside from MINASE brand watches, Kyowa provides OEM watches to several fashion and jewelry brands (cannot mention the names here, but you would be surprised.... both mechanical and quartz) and that is doing quite well.
The advantage of Kyowa/ Minase is clearly the precision tools they make - Even a few very, very big and respected Swiss watch brands buy their tools! Again, you would be surprised at who use Kyowa/ Minase tools.... Also note that Kyowa has its tool manufacturing factory nearby, where we did not visit this time.
2. How they make the cases - forging, honing, polishing, buffing and finishing.
(1) Forging:
They have various press machines -
160 ton machine x 2
80 ton x 1
35 ton x 2
The actual forging. This is the 7th time of these cases (the photos show OEM watch case making) out of total 13 to 15 times.
At the load of 72 tons!
And then they are brought to the heating machine (1,120C) for 20 - 25 minutes. Then go back to the press machine - repeats 15 times.
These machines may all look pretty old, but for small quantity order, older machines are more efficient to adjust and handle.
(2) Polishing
This is the model whose case and other parts are polished as shown below. Interesting design called "Case in case" structure.
First stage - raw after forging.
Second - a bit of softening the rough edges.
Third - after honing.
Fourth - After Salaz polish on the top surface (bezel)
(* "Salaz" was the name of the polishing machine brand which has been widely used by the case makers, thus now the name "Salaz" is used as one method or process of polishing)
Fifth - After buffing the top surface
Final - all 14 surfaces (!) after Salaz polish and buffing. Sharp edges are intact.
The final one from the side - mirror like surface with sharp edges left: extremely time consuming process. Needless to say, the holes on the side and the crown are done with Kyowa tools.
Left half is after Salaz polish only, the right half is after final buffing.
Polishing Machine
Salaz polishing (polishing against the hard board of file - three times for each surface, from rough to fine) - leaves the sharp angles.
Index part of the above model.
The dial inside - the process for polishing this part is even more jaw dropping.
a. Honing the surface
b. Polish the fan-shape date window with the leutor by hand
c. Salaz for the chamfering (0.7mm width), and then hair line finish for the outer dial and the side.
(3) Other notable equipment
Electrical Discharge Machine and Wire-Electrical Discharge Machine have been used since 1985. Some Swiss brands just started using this type of machines.
They make their own metal mold here.
3. Putting the sapphire glasses on the case
Syringe is used to put on the special UV glue.
Then use Q tips to apply the glue equally
These are all the Sapphire glasses to be put on the case...
Finished.....
4. Assembling the "case in case"
Putting the hands on it....
5. Perlage
Not just another ETA2824. Spare no time and effort.
After
Before
End of Part 1
Please read Part 2 for their models, and Part 3 for the interview with the Brand CEO, in-house movement.
This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-04-15 19:05:08 This message has been edited by AndrewD on 2014-04-16 17:32:30 This message has been edited by AndrewD on 2014-04-19 15:31:11
I was fortunately invited to MINASE factory together with others - including a watch journalist, PR specialist, and a photographer. Minase is trying to notch up its brand image and get to the next level to get widely accepted and respected as a manufacture watch brand. But the truth is that Minase is already doing quite well in the watch making in Japan, just that fact is very little known.
0. Factory and surroundings
The nearest station - Yuzawa Station (about an hour ride from Omagari station where we got off Tohoku Shinkansen or bullet train, to which it takes 3 and a half hours from Tokyo Station, at the speed of 320km/h). And from this station, it takes again about 30 minutes to the factory - quite a trip, but well worth it.
Reminded me of the road from Geneva to Valle de Joux....
The factory houses 26 workers. With no brand or sign of the watch factory....
At the entrance of the factory. HiZ series, VY03.
1. Let me start from its history.
The name of the company is Kyowa Precision , a precision tool manufacturer, founded in 1963 by Mr. Kouichi Suzuki. Kyowa developed the special "step drill" to be used to open the hole for the crown of the watches and it sold quite well to the big watch brands. And then, those watch brands started asking Kyowa to make the watch cases altogether including of course drilling the hole for the crown stem. Along the way, Kyowa acquired the skill set for the high-end watch case making.
The time flies and the watch brands shifted case subcontractors to other countries. It was sort of a "crisis", but Kyowa then decided to make watches by themselves with the skill set they already possessed (except for the movement). Kyowa built the watch factory in Minase, Akita prefecture (north western part of Japan) in 1988, and the name of the location - Minase - became the brand name. Aside from MINASE brand watches, Kyowa provides OEM watches to several fashion and jewelry brands (cannot mention the names here, but you would be surprised.... both mechanical and quartz) and that is doing quite well.
The advantage of Kyowa/ Minase is clearly the precision tools they make - Even a few very, very big and respected Swiss watch brands buy their tools! Again, you would be surprised at who use Kyowa/ Minase tools.... Also note that Kyowa has its tool manufacturing factory nearby, where we did not visit this time.
2. How they make the cases - forging, honing, polishing, buffing and finishing.
(1) Forging:
They have various press machines -
160 ton machine x 2
80 ton x 1
35 ton x 2
The actual forging. This is the 7th time of these cases (the photos show OEM watch case making) out of total 13 to 15 times.
At the load of 72 tons!
And then they are brought to the heating machine (1,120C) for 20 - 25 minutes. Then go back to the press machine - repeats 15 times.
These machines may all look pretty old, but for small quantity order, older machines are more efficient to adjust and handle.
(2) Polishing
This is the model whose case and other parts are polished as shown below. Interesting design called "Case in case" structure.
First stage - raw after forging.
Second - a bit of softening the rough edges.
Third - after honing.
Fourth - After Salaz polish on the top surface (bezel)
(* "Salaz" was the name of the polishing machine brand which has been widely used by the case makers, thus now the name "Salaz" is used as one method or process of polishing)
Fifth - After buffing the top surface
Final - all 14 surfaces (!) after Salaz polish and buffing. Sharp edges are intact.
The final one from the side - mirror like surface with sharp edges left: extremely time consuming process. Needless to say, the holes on the side and the crown are done with Kyowa tools.
Left half is after Salaz polish only, the right half is after final buffing.
Polishing Machine
Salaz polishing (polishing against the hard board of file - three times for each surface, from rough to fine) - leaves the sharp angles.
Index part of the above model.
The dial inside - the process for polishing this part is even more jaw dropping.
a. Honing the surface
b. Polish the fan-shape date window with the leutor by hand
c. Salaz for the chamfering (0.7mm width), and then hair line finish for the outer dial and the side.
(3) Other notable equipment
Electrical Discharge Machine and Wire-Electrical Discharge Machine have been used since 1985. Some Swiss brands just started using this type of machines.
They make their own metal mold here.
3. Putting the sapphire glasses on the case
Syringe is used to put on the special UV glue.
Then use Q tips to apply the glue equally
These are all the Sapphire glasses to be put on the case...
Finished.....
4. Assembling the "case in case"
Putting the hands on it....
5. Perlage
Not just another ETA2824. Spare no time and effort.
After
Before
End of Part 1
Please read Part 2 for their models, and Part 3 for the interview with the Brand CEO, in-house movement.
This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-04-15 19:05:08 This message has been edited by AndrewD on 2014-04-16 17:32:30 This message has been edited by AndrewD on 2014-04-19 15:31:11
Part 2 - MINASE current models
There are two series - Master Craft Series and HiZ Series.
1. Master Craft Series
MORE (Minase Original Rebuilding Equation) Structure - many small parts are each polished and assembled: time consuming high-quality finish, also so that the repair can be done with the least parts replacement as well as re-polishing with the expectation of very long time serviceability and long life product.
Screw head has "M" signature.
And here is another "M" on the 12h index.
39mm diameter
Beautifully made case and bracelet. 10 ATM.
MOP dial is also worth mentioning.
2. HiZ Series.
VY02 - "Horizon"
See the Perlage.
VY03 - "Five Windows"
Those small windows are made with Kyowa tools (small drill) as well.
See "Case in Case"....
ETA2824
Read on to Part 3 - Interview with Brand CEO and in-house movement development...
This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-04-13 08:05:56
1. Master Craft Series
MORE (Minase Original Rebuilding Equation) Structure - many small parts are each polished and assembled: time consuming high-quality finish, also so that the repair can be done with the least parts replacement as well as re-polishing with the expectation of very long time serviceability and long life product.
Screw head has "M" signature.
And here is another "M" on the 12h index.
39mm diameter
Beautifully made case and bracelet. 10 ATM.
MOP dial is also worth mentioning.
2. HiZ Series.
VY02 - "Horizon"
See the Perlage.
VY03 - "Five Windows"
Those small windows are made with Kyowa tools (small drill) as well.
See "Case in Case"....
ETA2824
Read on to Part 3 - Interview with Brand CEO and in-house movement development...
This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-04-13 08:05:56
The 5 windows case is an interesting concept! Thanks for the report, Ken. [nt]
No message body
Part 3 - Interview with MINASE Brand CEO and in-house movement
Interview with the Brand CEO of MINASE, Mr. Tsuyoshi Suzuki.
KIH: Would you tell us more about yourself?
Tsuyoshi Suzuki ("TS"): After college, I worked for an office equipment wholesale company, sales division. At that time, Kyowa was not in such a good shape (after bubble) and I didn't even dream about joining or being told by my father to join Kyowa. But as the time goes by, Kyowa came back strong and I was told to come back in 1998. I was first assigned to the IT (beginning of the "intranet" era back then), and then was assigned to the Watch business.
Having worked for the bigger company, I felt such a burden of big responsibility in a small company like Kyowa as I have to be able to do many things, but gradually it became fun to work for Kyowa, e.g. seeing watches I sold displayed on the floor of the department stores and boutiques/ shops of the OEM clients. Thankfully, our watch business is doing quite well - but majority is from OEM business and our own brand watches is still minority.
But the more OEM watches sell and better known, the more OEM needs inquiry comes in (like from major Apparel brands) and the more MINASE brand exposure increases. Good cycle.
KIH: I understand and saw the prototype of your in-house movement. The finishing is superb, just like your case making. When are you planning to launch it?
TS: Our aim is to be 100% in-house manufacture. We are planning to launch it in probably our VY05 of HiZ Series in June next year (2015), although which model to put it in is not final. The prototype will still be improved in all aspects.
KIH: I also understand that your customers are not happy enough with using "purchased" movements in such very time consuming, well made cases. And of course you are planning to make everything from A to Z in-house. When do you think you will be in such a position?
TS: That is another reason why we know we have to be 100% in-house manufacture. We started making our own brand watches in 2005, next year (2015) will be the 10th anniversary. And I hope we be such a "manufacture" who makes from the tiny screws to the hair springs by 2025. We have tools, skill set, and supporting people from outside as well, but it will take time while that goal will not change.
KIH: I see you are wearing one of HiZ series, but with power reserve meter and it is not on the catalog.
TS: Oh, this is VY01 - made only 30, immediately sold out. We just happened to source 40 ETA2897 and decided to make LE of 30. It was in 2011.
KIH: Are you satisfied with the status quo - watch business doing quite well - or do you think there is room for improvement in efficiency, cost structure, sales effort, etc?
TS: Quite honestly, I believe we could do better, much better. We can improve our process and efficiency. Watch has many parts and if we make more parts by ourselves, we could do much better. Managing the supplier is sometimes a headache - whether they keep the deadline, etc. So, from that stand point, too, we would really like to become the all in-house manufacture one day.
KIH: What do you think you should do about the Brand and branding?
TS: That is exactly what I am learning together with PR firm and other specialists. Only thing I have in mind is that we have to be the brand with firm philosophy and story which are not easily shaken.
KIH: What type of brand do you want to aim to be:
TS: In one word, "Handsome". Not just design but as a whole, including philosophy, how we make watches, our philosophy, history, and everything, we want to be considered "Handsome" brand. Another example is that we don't want to tell the customers "we keep our parts for XX years and after that we cannot service your watches" but we want to say as our motto "we will service or repair your watches forever - surely it will take time and cost, but it is our commitment to our clients", and THAT is also the "Handsome" brand we want to aim for. We don't want to treat our products as just some industrial products, but something with special meaning or attachment to each owner, and that is the watch brand we want to become. We want to show the world another "100% made in Japan" watches some day because we can.
KIH: Thank you very much for your time, hospitality and showing us everything. We learned a lot about you on this trip. It was fun and best wishes for your bright future. We want to follow your progress.
TS: Thank you for visiting us. Please come back anytime.
=========================================================================
That's it, folks!
Special thanks to:
Mr. Tsuyoshi Suzuki, Brand CEO, MINASE (Kyowa Precision)
Mr. Kouichi Takahashi, Factory Head of Minase Factory
Mr. Katsuo Kurosawa, Head of Production Department, Minase Factory
Mr. Hironari Miki, Sales Department, MINASE
... and all the people at MINASE factory.
End
Thank you for reading.
Ken
This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-04-15 09:17:04
KIH: Would you tell us more about yourself?
Tsuyoshi Suzuki ("TS"): After college, I worked for an office equipment wholesale company, sales division. At that time, Kyowa was not in such a good shape (after bubble) and I didn't even dream about joining or being told by my father to join Kyowa. But as the time goes by, Kyowa came back strong and I was told to come back in 1998. I was first assigned to the IT (beginning of the "intranet" era back then), and then was assigned to the Watch business.
Having worked for the bigger company, I felt such a burden of big responsibility in a small company like Kyowa as I have to be able to do many things, but gradually it became fun to work for Kyowa, e.g. seeing watches I sold displayed on the floor of the department stores and boutiques/ shops of the OEM clients. Thankfully, our watch business is doing quite well - but majority is from OEM business and our own brand watches is still minority.
But the more OEM watches sell and better known, the more OEM needs inquiry comes in (like from major Apparel brands) and the more MINASE brand exposure increases. Good cycle.
KIH: I understand and saw the prototype of your in-house movement. The finishing is superb, just like your case making. When are you planning to launch it?
TS: Our aim is to be 100% in-house manufacture. We are planning to launch it in probably our VY05 of HiZ Series in June next year (2015), although which model to put it in is not final. The prototype will still be improved in all aspects.
KIH: I also understand that your customers are not happy enough with using "purchased" movements in such very time consuming, well made cases. And of course you are planning to make everything from A to Z in-house. When do you think you will be in such a position?
TS: That is another reason why we know we have to be 100% in-house manufacture. We started making our own brand watches in 2005, next year (2015) will be the 10th anniversary. And I hope we be such a "manufacture" who makes from the tiny screws to the hair springs by 2025. We have tools, skill set, and supporting people from outside as well, but it will take time while that goal will not change.
KIH: I see you are wearing one of HiZ series, but with power reserve meter and it is not on the catalog.
TS: Oh, this is VY01 - made only 30, immediately sold out. We just happened to source 40 ETA2897 and decided to make LE of 30. It was in 2011.
KIH: Are you satisfied with the status quo - watch business doing quite well - or do you think there is room for improvement in efficiency, cost structure, sales effort, etc?
TS: Quite honestly, I believe we could do better, much better. We can improve our process and efficiency. Watch has many parts and if we make more parts by ourselves, we could do much better. Managing the supplier is sometimes a headache - whether they keep the deadline, etc. So, from that stand point, too, we would really like to become the all in-house manufacture one day.
KIH: What do you think you should do about the Brand and branding?
TS: That is exactly what I am learning together with PR firm and other specialists. Only thing I have in mind is that we have to be the brand with firm philosophy and story which are not easily shaken.
KIH: What type of brand do you want to aim to be:
TS: In one word, "Handsome". Not just design but as a whole, including philosophy, how we make watches, our philosophy, history, and everything, we want to be considered "Handsome" brand. Another example is that we don't want to tell the customers "we keep our parts for XX years and after that we cannot service your watches" but we want to say as our motto "we will service or repair your watches forever - surely it will take time and cost, but it is our commitment to our clients", and THAT is also the "Handsome" brand we want to aim for. We don't want to treat our products as just some industrial products, but something with special meaning or attachment to each owner, and that is the watch brand we want to become. We want to show the world another "100% made in Japan" watches some day because we can.
KIH: Thank you very much for your time, hospitality and showing us everything. We learned a lot about you on this trip. It was fun and best wishes for your bright future. We want to follow your progress.
TS: Thank you for visiting us. Please come back anytime.
=========================================================================
That's it, folks!
Special thanks to:
Mr. Tsuyoshi Suzuki, Brand CEO, MINASE (Kyowa Precision)
Mr. Kouichi Takahashi, Factory Head of Minase Factory
Mr. Katsuo Kurosawa, Head of Production Department, Minase Factory
Mr. Hironari Miki, Sales Department, MINASE
... and all the people at MINASE factory.
End
Thank you for reading.
Ken
This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-04-15 09:17:04
There is heart...
The HiZ model is by far the more unique model and the one that represents MINASE. The round model does appear to need a little more work with the design (the design is a little bland for me).
It'd be interesting to see how this company evolves in the coming years.
Thank you for showing this to us Ken!
It's not often that a completely new manufacturer . . .
. . . comes to light, Ken; my awareness of Minase was nil until just now.
Good to see they're developing a manual winding movement, judging by the CAD image; even better if a movement shaped to fit their rectangular cases is in the works.
Can you give us an idea of their pricing? Say, as compared to GS: rather more, less, or around the same?
Thanks very much for this groundbreaking report!
Art
With the time and effort they pour into each...
.. the price is very reasonable, I say, while the price range is about the same or less than GS.
And, yes, the new in-house movement will be hand winding with nice finishing on the bridges and such
Interesting experience to be shown everything
Thanks!
Ken
And, yes, the new in-house movement will be hand winding with nice finishing on the bridges and such
Interesting experience to be shown everything
Thanks!
Ken
Japan technology
Japanese precision machine company making Japanese precision timepieces. Sounds about right to me!
So, will Akita be known for its dogs, sake, AND watches??
Really great report. Thanks!
Great Write-up, Ken
And nice pics...
Very interesting company
Do they exhibit at Basel ? (Sorry if you mentioned this point in your write-up)
Very interesting company
Do they exhibit at Basel ? (Sorry if you mentioned this point in your write-up)
Why can't Seiko demonstrate a similar creativity and phantasy ...
... when designing their high quality watches? A Grand Seiko movement in a Minase outfit - this would indeed be a magnificent watch!
Thank you, Ken, for permitting us to discover this unknown, but fascinating facet of the Japanese watch industry.
Marcus
Good point....
Let's see how the new in-house movement of MINASE will be like. I am very hopeful, though.
Thanks!
Ken
Thanks!
Ken
nice report Ken. What would a GS or Credor look like with that level of...
Hand finishing?
Let's see....
.. how MINASE will do with its own in-house movement and the new model first.
Thanks, Ronald!
Ken
Thanks, Ronald!
Ken
Fantastic report Ken!
Thank you for bringing to our attention this brand.
I really like what they are doing.
They are not the only recent brand that is coming from a machine tool heritage.
You know that Japanese machine tools are also very prized in the Swiss watch industry.
It is sometimes funny, in Swiss production the CNC milling machines are almost all Swiss or German, but the CNC lathes are almost always Japanese.
It appears that the Japanese machines are the best.
A qustion: does Minase have any sales outside of Japan? Where could one see a Minase watch in Europe?
Don
I really like what they are doing.
They are not the only recent brand that is coming from a machine tool heritage.
You know that Japanese machine tools are also very prized in the Swiss watch industry.
It is sometimes funny, in Swiss production the CNC milling machines are almost all Swiss or German, but the CNC lathes are almost always Japanese.
It appears that the Japanese machines are the best.
A qustion: does Minase have any sales outside of Japan? Where could one see a Minase watch in Europe?
Don
Thanks, Don!
For the moment, MINASE does not have any foreign outlet - they are about to go out. Be patient!
Hope they go to Basel next year....
I will keep you updated!
Thanks!
Ken
Hope they go to Basel next year....
I will keep you updated!
Thanks!
Ken
Arigatou gozaimasu: It's about kokorou
Dear Ken
Thank you for bringing this news.
The key here is 心（こころ）kokorou.
It looks like Minase Watch has the 'heart' to continuously improve for their customers.
Regards,
MTF
Yes, sir, exactly...
.. this is like SEIKO with lots of heart poured into it....
Let's keep an eye on this as this brand spread to the world!
Ken
Let's keep an eye on this as this brand spread to the world!
Ken
Great report
The case and bracelet looks really well made.
Interesting approach on many parts which in time will be easier to service.
Interesting design as well. Kinda reminds me of some vintage Orient design in terms of the dial.
Cant wait for them to participate in BASEL.
Interesting approach on many parts which in time will be easier to service.
Interesting design as well. Kinda reminds me of some vintage Orient design in terms of the dial.
Cant wait for them to participate in BASEL.
Very informative postings...Thank you!
I find the re-awakening of 'Made in Japan' mechanical time pieces in today's electronic age (smartphones etc.) somewhat fascinating.
The level of finishing of the Minase models is extremely high quality. I bet even better in person. I agree with others that the 'Horizon' and 'Five Windows' are what resonate the character of the brand.
As a proud owner of a Seiko Galante and Citizen Campanola, I would love to add to a Minase to the Japanese contingent of my collection. I think I will wait the in-house movement though.
Once again, thank you for the fantastic expose. My best wishes for Minase continued success.