Horological Meandering

Hi,

I wanted to throw out a request for some ideas on what to look at next as an addition to my collection of 5 keeper watches.  I am in mid process of shedding 3 others that I currently no longer wear.  Currently, I believe that 6 watches is the max that I can regularly wear. So I view this as the last one aboard the life boat (I hear you laughing, now stop that!). I thought that I might solicit some proposals from the group as to what I might consider adding to these 5 watches:

Blancpain Leman Ultra Slim Grande Date: black dialed, SS automatic sports watch with a large date complication on a bracelet

Chronoswiss Regulateur 24: silver dialed, manual wind, SS dress watch with a regulator dial on a crocodile strap

Glashuette Original Panomatic Lunar: silver dialed, automatic, SS dress watch with a large date and lunar complication on a bracelet

IWC Aquatimer 2000: white dialed, automatic, SS dive watch with a date and divers bezel on a bracelet

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reserve de Marche: silver dialed , automatic , dress watch with a power reserve complication on a crocodile strap

 

 

 

Some thoughts on my selection criteria are around a stainless steel sports watch with a dark dial  (4 are silver or white) different in aesthetic from the BP or the IWC.  I have 3 watches for dressier situations with the Chronoswiss, GO and the JLC. I have listed some prioritized criteria below. Aesthetic preferences and movement are of most importance followed by size, function and water resistance.  I have a desire for a new brand, but it is not a must.  I have put an upper financial constraint to help focus your proposals

Primary Importance

Aesthetics: Different from collection (shape, or dial), dark dial, sports watch, prefer brushed or satin SS over polished, display back is nice, strap or bracelet is fine

Movement: In-house preferred but not required

Moderate Importance

Physical Size: 39-44 mm dia., 10-15 mm thick

Functions:  Bright lume, perhaps a new function over current mix (chronograph, GMT, alarm etc.) but not required, easy to set up between wears, a running seconds is a must, hacking is nice to have  

Water Resistance: >100 meters (swimming is possible)

Lesser Importance

Commonality:   I tend to prefer less ubiquitous watch models, less common is preferred over more common

Brand: A new brand is preferred but not required

Cost: <$10k  (less is fine..

 

I have intentionally left it fairly open to see what ideas are put forth during this meandering. I look forward to your suggestions and I am happy to answer any clarifying questions.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

 

 

nt

SalmanQ8,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, albeit briefly.  I have considered a AP Royal Oak, but..1) It is right at or beyond the upper end of my price range. 2) I don't think they have much lume and only has 50 meter water resistance 3) I fear dinging the sharp edged octagonal bezel  and I find the textured dial a bit busy.  A Rolex Sub is about the most common sport luxury watch in the world and while a fine time piece, it is all to common to be of interest (see my criteria). Tudor is an interesting suggestion.  Does Rolex now distribute them in the USA?

Bob

I'm sure an 15300 could be found well below your budget which belonged to fellow Purist however I do agree if you were to dive with it beyond 50m then it is an issue, about the dings, well I can tell you frome experience its pretty hard to do that unless you slam it into a door frame, or hit your car window really hard, so slam your hand against the table (done all those things LooL )

I used to think the same way about the Rolex Sub, its too common and all that but I can assure you it is not, chances of seeing it in the wild might be higher but it is not common, if you compare the number of Rolex owners with the global population (do even 75 million people every day wear a Rolex on a daily basis globally? i.e. 1% of the world's population). If that isn't rare enough then you can get a Vintage (1960s) Sub 5513 with a Gilt dial and then you have a very cool and rare piece relatively speaking.

In todays world if something is not available locally you can have it shipped in right?

S

Depending on current collector desirability and fashion, you can find a vintage Submariner with a lot more history, rarity, character and interest than a modern watch, and for around the same price. Certainly well under your budget.

Definitely worth considering.

Andrew

. . . one choice could be the latest Aqua Terra from Omega . . .

. . . which not only fulfills every requirement, but comes with a technically adept movement capable of delivering exceptional performance. 

Pushing the available budget to the limit allows the latest from Glashütte Original . . .

. . . to enter the fray. 

I'd be happy as a clam with either ;-) . . .

Dr. No,

Apologize to interject but you are to be the best Purist to ask. Which watch would you prefer? The Omega Aqua Terra pictured above in your post or the Zenith El Primero 36,000 pictured below. I ask because these are the targets of my next acquisition. BTW I again apologize for interjecting on the main post.

Feel free to PM.

Regards

. . . an Omega Aqua Terra are more dissimilar than alike, and fill different requirements, so they're not really directly comparable.

My purely subjective response would be in favor of the Aqua Terra, but that's because I already own an EP and because I can still (barely) justify acquiring another sports watch.  I'm favorably disposed to the latest movements from Omega based on personal experience, and would like to own one.  
 

Your opinion is invaluable and is greatly appreciated. I will inform you on which timepiece I decided on.

No message body

Rad all the way!

The MIH watch seems to tick off most of your boxes, it has a nice friendly complication (annual calendar) that is new to your collection, a black face and brushed finish.

Or a Saparneva Moon.

Best

Andreas

I would go for the G.O.  Matt

How about the Reverso Squadra?

 

You already have a JLC in your collection, but it would add a square shape!

 

The Home Time would add the GMT function.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Best

 

Blomman

Obviously there is shape....

Cushion Shaped (Panerai, Anonimo etc.)

Rectangular (JLC Reverso, Bell & Ross etc.)

Tonneau (Cartier Roadster etc.)

 

There is also Functions...

Chronograph

GMT

Alarm

Day, Date

Annual Calander

 

There are also other Brands

Anonimo

Audimars Piguet

Bell & Ross

Breguet

Cartier

Chopard

Daniel JeanRichard

Girard Perregaux

Grand Seiko

Hublot

Montblanc

Officine Panerai

Omega

Rolex

Ulysse Nardin

Vacheron Constantin

Zenith

 

If I filter by In-House movements, the Universe narrows a bit (I added existing brands with an asterisk)

 

Audimars Piguet

Blancpain*

Breguet

Cartier

Chopard

Daniel JeanRichard

Girard Perregaux

Glashuette Original*

Grand Seiko

Hublot

IWC*

Jaeger-LeCoultre*

Montblanc

Officine Panerai

Omega

Rolex

Vacheron Constantin

Zenith

 

Easy to set when among 6 watches...

Date complications add another step so that is something to consider whereas a chronograph or GMT may not.

 

A sports watch...

Something that one can wear when taking a swim and not be concerned if it sees some water. Those of you who suggested a vintage Rolex Sub, I have a diver with the IWC and do not want to duplicate at this time.

 

So since day date, annual calendar add set up steps, I think I will pass on those.  That perhaps leaves chronograph and GMT watch functions (maybe others).  On the shape front the cushion shaped watches seem to be in general more water resistant (I believe Reversos, even Squadras are 50 m rated).

 

 

 

Not a common watch, very wearable and practical, and keeps the SS theme. Also, if you can stand a long search, the Istituto Idrografico Marina by Longines; a beauty with lots of budget room (I wish I could find one!). Good luck!

best for the money is a Daytona, overall... IMHO, but clearly there are more interesting/personal choices... but a chrono is in great need here!

Other chronos I like: AP RO (not ROO) chrono. Many dials to choose...

JLC Master chrono in RG--spectacularly gorgeous (I like it better than AP RO, by a few bits...) (has to be RG for me, though, if you're asking.)

Zenith's new Pilot chrono is pretty cool with the best automatic movement in the biz--well, certainly equal to the Daytona.

Chopard Chrono One--a really great watch!!! With a spectacular movement---I like the simplest black/white dial.... (I have a few quibbles with the design here, but this is a really great chrono, I would love to wear.)

Breguet Type 21 in steel or RG--another fantastic watch.

Seiko Grand Seiko chronograph--the one with the eccentric pushers--busier dial than I would normally wish for, but this is just a fantastic design--very unusual in its own way--and WOW--watch that 36000 chrono hand float like a weightless needle around the dial... I want one of these in black on leather strap.

I also like Habring's chrono--with the special attributes here...

Have fun.

Aw gee.... I just realized I did not read your budget limit. Sorry for that... well... use this list as for what is possible...in my enthusiasm, I skipped past the bottom half of your post... well, again.... use the list as relevantpossible... This message has been edited by Mostel on 2011-07-23 14:22:50 This message has been edited by Mostel on 2011-07-23 14:23:35

Mostel (and others),

Part of me fully concurs with you that a Chronograph would make a fine addition. THe AP was just way above my budget.  I did look at the Chopard but it has 50 m WR and I liked the Zenith better. I also have considered a Habring Chrono but even after looking at a number of case and dial options, I can't find one that speasks to me (even with an old HW Valjoux 773 that they have reworked). I considered some others recently below.  Some meet the critera better than others.

 

Anonimo Miltare Fylback Chrono - Interesting case shape, uncommon, great lume housed around a fairly ordinary ETA/DD flyback module calibre, new brand

Breguet Type XX Aeronavale - Classic aviator style, on the small side of acceptable, Lemania flyback calibre, polished look will show wear, new brand

JLC Master Compressor Chrono 2 - Sporty look, JLC calibre, locking pushers but happens to be a brand I already own

Omega Seedmaster Professional -  Classic Look, Lemania Calibre, Poor WR, Not a fan of the Tachymetre or how common they are, new brand

Paneral  Radiomir Chrono 369 - Interesting case shape, great lume with a fairly ordinary ETA calibre, new brand

Rolex Daytona Cosmograph -  Classic look, on the small side of acceptable, Rolex column wheel Calibre, not a Tachymetre fan, new brand

Zenith Pilot Chrono - Bold aviator look, El Premiro column wheel calibre, not a telemeter fan, poor WR, new brand

 

Out of these the Breguet, Panerai and the Zenith stood out. Breguet in that it met much of my criteria (polish, lume and size are in question), Panerai based on it distinct aesthetics (calibre, small registers are in question) and the Zenith looks and the calibre (low WR and a date to set are in question). 

In GMT watches that I have considered are the Chopard Pro One, JLC Master Compressor GMT, Panerai Radiomir GMT Alarm, Rolex GMT Master IIc and a UN Dual Time. I am attracted to each of these for differing reasons.

What I haven't really explored  is ignoring the new functions and perhaps is adding another simpler watch that has a different aesthetic from the current crop, but is sporty.  The simplisity of this option might make setting somewhat simpler. Simpler watches, with dark dials that lean sporty like a JLC Reverso Hometime Black (fine movement, classic look, poor WR and AM/PM and date to set) or a Panerai PAM00111 (Classic Pillow shaped, sandwich dial, oridinary Unitas calibre) might fit the bill as well.

 

Based on these thoughts any reactions, thoughts or suggestions?

Bob

 

 

I personally feel that something from Panerai could suit your book. Have to think which one though. And also depending on your reply to the above question.

Best,

Horo

Horo,

Which above question are you are referring to (there were a few)?

Thanks,

Bob

Hi Bob,

I think Horo is referring to your budget. Are you willing to look at used/pre-loved pieces? Your budget of up the 10K will stretch a lot further if so.

Depending on your currency of course. ;-)

A

Horo/Andrew,

While I prefer a new watch and well cared for used watch is indeed possible.  My proposed budget is firm.  I would like to keep it under that figure of the US Peso (.

Regards,

Bob