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Minerva The Unveiled Crownless
Minerva has recently become a stand-alone brand again.
One of the models of this new era is The Unveiled Crownless, ref. MB137544.
credit: Swisswatches Magazine
As its name suggests, it is a crownless model inspired by a bezel-activated military watch created in 1927: the movement is wound and the time is set via the fluted bezel.
credit: @chefs_d_oeuvre_horlogers
In 2023, Montblanc took its first step toward using the bezel as a setting instrument with the 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Chronograph, ref. MB130987 (steel & white gold) & MB130988 (lime gold).
This “pusherless” chronograph featured a crown, but its chronograph functions were activated solely via the fluted bezel.
credit: A Blog To Watch
The new Unveiled Crownless takes this concept a step further by completely eliminating the crown, entrusting both time setting and movement winding to the 18k-rose gold bezel.
Discreetly placed at the 3 o’clock side of the caseback’s stainless steel frame is a lever for switching the bezel’s function.
credit: Monochrome
When the lever is extended, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is in time-setting mode.
When it is in, the bezel is in winding mode:
- Rotating the bezel three full turns counterclockwise fully winds the movement, which has an 80-hour power reserve. A mechanism prevents over-winding and the risk of breaking the mainspring.
- And, for added enjoyment, you can rotate the bezel as many times as you like clockwise.
credit: @chefs_d_oeuvre_horlogers & WatchAdvisor
In place of the crown is a screwed gold plaque on which is engraved “Depuis 1858 ” (Since 1858). The lever is visible, located just below.
credit: @ChronoGuy (on WatchCrunch)
The stainless steel case measures 41 x 12 mm and these dimensions are my only regret: I find this watch attractive and I would like it much more in a smaller size.
credit: Monochrome
The dial has a warm ivory colour and beautiful opaline and guilloche textures.
credit: @tainan_chinawatch
The large dauphine-shaped hands and applied markers look very nice, imo.
credit: Monochrome
The deployant buckle features a surprising micro-adjustment system.
credit: @tainan_chinawatch
Although too big, I find the watch very elegant.
credit: @bernardo.entusiasta
credit: @si.d.weir
And of course, the caliber M15.08, also seen above, has a beautiful architecture and is very well finished.
credit: @chefs_d_oeuvre_horlogers
credit: @tainan_chinawatch
Two more wrist shots.
credit: @ChronoGuy (on WatchCrunch) & @zsw
One last static shot.
credit: Monochrome
And here is the beautiful wooden box, which also features a secret opening mechanism (cf. video below).
credit: WatchAdvisor
So, what do you think about this watch?
Do you like it? Do you miss the crown? Do you find it too big? Do you dislike the two-tone aesthetic?
Personally, apart from the size, I like it a lot.
Thanks for reading.
Personally, apart from the size, I like it a lot.
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
TWO BONUSES
1/ THE CLUB 58 WATCH
Limited to 58 pieces, this version of the Crownless is only available to members of the Minerva Club 58.
credit: @ChronoGuy (on WatchCrunch)
2/ VIDEO PRESENTATION OF TIME-SETTING AND WINDING VIA THE BEZEL 1/ THE CLUB 58 WATCH
Limited to 58 pieces, this version of the Crownless is only available to members of the Minerva Club 58.
credit: @ChronoGuy (on WatchCrunch)
Presentation of The Unveiled Crownless by WatchAdvisor
Reference Guide
Explore the Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow. Amanico's review compares this 2022 release to its vintage ancestor, detailing design, movement, and collector insights.
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Collection
Discover the Montblanc Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe, a limited edition 39mm white gold chronograph with a Minerva movement and Grand Feu enamel dial.
23 replies4078 views
Review
Detailed review of the Montblanc 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph Steel with blue dial. Insights on wearability, Minerva heritage, and movement comparison.
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Collection
Explore the Montblanc 1858 collection's Minerva heritage and design with jrwong23. Discover the Calibre 16.29 Chronograph Tachymeter and Small Seconds.
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Manufacture
Jrwong23 reviews Montblanc's 'Spirit of Meisterstuck' dinner, focusing on Minerva calibers like the 16-18 Retour-A-Zero. Explore Montblanc Villeret's craftsmanship and collector insights.
19 replies4621 views
Complications
Explore Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter and Calibre MB M16.29. Deep dive into Villeret monopusher movement, finishing, and collection potential.
51 replies22190 views
Collection
Jrwong23 explores the Montblanc 1858 collection's design, inspired by Minerva's vintage chronographs, highlighting its heritage and modern appeal.
14 replies5685 views
Review
Review of the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Small Second. Explore its design, movement, and collector opinions on case size and Minerva heritage.
19 replies7328 views
Minerva The Unveiled Crownless
Minerva has recently become a stand-alone brand again . One of the models of this new era is The Unveiled Crownless , ref. MB137544 . credit: Swisswatches Magazine As its name suggests, it is a crownless model inspired by a bezel-activated military watch ...
you are right. Given the size of the movement, the case could be 2 or 3 mm smaller.
As for the concept, the Freak had the same, in 2001. The time is set by the bezel on the front, and the movement wound by the bezel on the back. Best, Nicolas ...
At least 3mm too large…
To my eyes, which makes the proportions not optimal and I am not a fan of the bimetal aesthetics personally. While I do applaud the doing something new approach I am also far from convinced that a fluted bezel works well for the Minerva brand - at least i...
I’m with you concerning the size. 38 mm would be much better.
As for the aesthetic I like it personally but I understand that it might be divisive (two-tone, fluted bezel). Best, Emmanuel
The technological advancement…
Dressed as a step into the past or at least as a copying of other brands 🤷🏻♂️
Having limited knowledge about a brand has its advantages ! 😇
I feel like the brand has targeted the wrong audience, because this design appeals to someone like me who knows little about its history, while it displeases someone like you who is attached to the brand's history…
I guess in the meantime…
The bet that there are enough people conversant with Minerva history might no longer be a good one - especially not those that would be willing to pay the current price level for it. Let’s not forget that the high grade finishing Minerva only started with...
I think that making a pastiche is never a good idea.
I personally like the design, though… 🫣 But I’m not in the market for such a watch. Let’s hope for Minerva's sake that this watch finds its market!
I'm not surprised.
Would "affected", "precious" and "outdated" be a correct way to describe how you feel about it?
I feel like the brand has targeted the wrong audience
because this design appeals to an old-fashioned guy like me who isn't familiar with its history, while it displeases someone like you who is attached to Minerva's past! Bad strategy!
The movement is gorgeous, but...
...I cannot warm up to the design language. Unfortunately this is also true for most other MB-Minerva's 😒
I understand your feeling, Gerard.
The design (two-tone, fluted bezel) is divisive. I like it but I definitely get it that not everyone does. Best, Emmanuel
I’m looking forward to see what
Chronographs they come out with in the future with the Minerva name. Im not really interested in this model.
I understand your lack of interest, Steve.
They’ve already launched two chronographs. Both openwork. Not for me at all, but I know they’re very attractive to some. Best, Emmanuel ...
I’m glad you feel the same way, Salman!
This watch is clearly not to everyone's taste. Best, Emmanuel
I really wanted to like this
I have been waiting to add a time only Minerva-MB. A shame for me that the size is too large both in diameter and thickness. I understand the setting mechanism may make it thicker but it should be 40x10 at minimum, I prefer 38x9. Unfortunate as I do like ...
Thickness is really the issue, I completely agree.
38 x 9 mm would be so much more attractive! Alas... Best, Emmanuel
It is very wise to wait for the hands on experience.
Keep us informed if you manage to see the watch in person. Best, Emmanuel
they missed a chance here imo for the return of Minerva
not my cup of tea design-wise and the club 58 (that I saw a few months ago) is really not a beauty...
The dial looks a bit old fashioned
but I am fine with that (being old fashioned myself) as well as the 2 tones. The price is a bit high to me as I think the gear trains to wind the watch and set the time re not more difficult to make than the traditional crown (not being mechanically educa...
I agree with you, Henry, concerning the old-fashioned look, which is exactly why I like this design.
Concerning the complexity of bezel setting and winding vs crown setting and winding, I couldn't tell unfortunately. But the price is definitely high for a time only watch (with a steel case, even if the bezel is made of gold)... Best, Emmanuel
To me, it's a beautiful watch. Size and all.
I am an outlier, but I see so many comments about "watch size too big". Everyone has their own opinion when it comes to size, complications, metal, movement, etc., and that is what's interesting. I never find any watch "too big". (Don't take me literally,...
I'm glad you like this watch, Ron.
I like it too and we don't seem to be many sharing this feeling. When I say it's "too big", I just mean for my small 16 cm wrist, so very subjective, obviously. Best, Emmanuel