jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) offers a comprehensive review of the Montblanc 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph in steel with a blue dial, a limited edition piece from the 1858 Collection. His detailed impressions cover the watch's wearability on a smaller wrist, its design inspirations from vintage Minerva chronographs, and the blend of Montblanc's heritage with modern watchmaking. This article distills his insights into this highly anticipated timepiece.
Dear
PuristS,
Much
has been said about this lovely 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph watch from
Montblanc’s relatively new 1858 Collection. We know quite a few members of our
community, myself included, who have received or are about to receive this watch,
either in steel (blue dial) or red gold (black dial), both limited to 100
pieces each. Initially, I was concerned that a watch at 44mm diameter would be
too big for my small wrist at 6.2 inches and was hesitant to commit. After using
it for close to a month now, I must say that I am very thankful for making the
choice to buy it! Yes, it is large but it doesn’t look out of place at all,
especially with its pilot watch inspired design (pilot watches look nice even
when oversized) and with nice matching cuffs. I very much love this one and
will share some recent pictures plus some of the ideas behind this watch.
I
generally prefer classical watches and those with a good background history ; a
tribute to a vintage iconic watch or watch collection, somehow appeal to me
even more. For Montblanc, of course they are a relatively young player in the
watch industry, having only started in 1997. It is one thing to innovate and
create new watches and designs such as the Montblanc Timewalker series or new
innovative movements such as the patented Montblanc Villeret Bi-Cylinderique
Tourbillon, all of these innovative efforts are of course important to a brand.
But with a history to draw inspiration from, the element of romanticism can be
brought to life in a watch. That is why I am happy that Montblanc has the
venerable Minerva manufacture (158 years of history), as well as its own
history of fine craftsmanship in writing instruments (110 years of history), to
draw inspiration from. This 1858 Tachymeter effectively has both of these
inspirations in the watch, the old Montblanc mountain logo, which I really
like, as well as vintage Minerva chronograph watches, of course.
The
picture below illustrates the design cues the 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph has
taken from a vintage Minerva chronograph from 1930. The large sized vintage
onion shaped crown and the vintage Montblanc mountain logo, which they used in
their early writing instruments, are my favourite features in terms of the
watch’s design.
The
very large vintage inspired crown, seen from the side profile of the case.
In
fact, I find the steel blue dial version of the 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph
looking more modern and cooler in feel, with white metal and blue combination
as well as white luminous hands. The red gold 1858 Tachymeter with its black
dial and cream hands (which, in a way, appears like patina on the luminous
material) look a lot warmer and closer to the vintage 1930 Minerva Chronograph.
One
of our very blessed PuristS, Alex 007 has the red gold 1858 Tachymeter
Chronograph. The very nice picture above was taken and shared by him on our
forum. Notice how warm and more vintage feeling the red gold version brings. Truth
be told, I had a hard time choosing the red gold vs. the steel as the price
difference between the two is not too big (making the red gold version very
good value in a way). Unfortunately, during the launch of this watch in
Singapore late last year, I was told I had to be on waitlist for the red gold
version and hence I booked my steel version instead and managed to secure Piece
100 / 100, which is also something I like.
The
case of the modern 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph is also very much inspired from
the vintage Minerva Chronograph from 1930. See illustration below.
I
really struggle to describe how much I love this watch, the dial, the case and
of course the calibre 16.29 and everything in it including the super large,
slow oscillating balance wheel and the superbly finished chronograph V-bridge.
I can only let my pictures speak for themselves.
Some
blue dials disappoint to be honest where press photos are nicer than in the
metal. I assure you this 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph does not. Even on my small
wrist, I feel it looks good due to the sporty and pilot inspired design of the
dial.
The
watch goes extremely well with blue and white shirts from my experience.
And
blue shoes and belt if you wish to match.
In
Part Two, I will share some details of the calibre 16.29, the Tachymeter
function, as well as recent shots I took from my own watch. I really enjoy
looking at this beautiful calibre with a loupe all day long.
Here
is a teaser shot.
And
a video of the in-house manufactured balance wheel and hair spring.
Looking
forward to completing Part Two and sharing with you soon.
Cheers
robin
PS: to read more about this watch, you can check out the Montblanc website link below:
This message has been edited by jrwong23 on 2016-05-18 02:23:13
About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858
The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.
For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Boucheron 1858
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Montblanc Ref. 1858Collection
The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph is a limited edition offering within the 1858 collection, distinguished by its complex split-second chronograph complication. This particular reference, limited to 100 pieces, features a unique burgundy dial, setting it apart from other models in the series and appealing to collectors seeking a more exclusive and visually distinct timepiece with advanced horological functions.
The watch is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 44mm in diameter and 15.2mm in thickness. It is fitted with a fixed 18k white gold fluted bezel. The dark burgundy dial, finished with a sunray pattern, complements the case materials. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal. The timepiece is powered by the hand-wound MB 16.31 calibre, which measures 38.4 x 8.13 mm, and offers a power reserve suitable for its intricate mechanical functions.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in high-complication chronographs and Montblanc's Minerva heritage. Its limited production run and specific dial color make it a notable variant within the 1858 collection, offering a blend of historical design cues and modern watchmaking. The large dimensions reflect its pocket watch-inspired movement architecture, a characteristic often appreciated by enthusiasts of traditional horology.
Specifications
- Caliber
- MB 16.31
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 44mm
- Dial
- Burgundy
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
