Jaeger Lecoultre Master Ultra Thin 34: When Simplicity is a Challenge.

Sep 18, 2018,11:41 AM
 



The Master Ultra Thin lived a quite long life, with a bit more than a 10 years of production. 

It was, by all meanings, a discrete watch, by its general allure, with a 34 mm case, its 4, 20 mm height, the sobriety of its dial with no other thing than a minutes and hours hands, and; last but not least, its GREAT movement, the manual winding Cal 849, born in 1994, which qualifies as a very thin one, with a height of 1, 85 mm only. 

I summed in 4 lines all the interest of this watch. 

Though, it was fully appreciated by Connoisseurs, only. 

Is it because of its modest dimensions? Is it because of its remarkable thinness, or because of its very sober dial that this Master Ultra Thin was not that popular? 

I would rather write " thanks to " rather than " because of ". 

First of all, the Master Ultra Thin 34 ( which I will call MUT 34 ) is an example of class

We often say " less is more " to describe what is a PuristS' Taste. Here, there is nothing to remove, of course, but most important, nothing to add, either. Would you see a date in such a pure dial? No way! 


Even a second hand? No, please!


I do think that when a watch is well born, it is outstanding, whatever the metal of the case or the color of the dial. 

Here, the other dial of the steel version, in black: 



The MUT 34 existed in rose gold, white gold, steel and platinum. For the rose gold and steel, you had the choice between a black and a silver dial, while the white gold came with a grey dial, and the platinum with a sublime blue dial. Both are great choices, you cannot go wrong with any of them. 

White Gold: 



Platinum: 


Here is another version, in white gold, skeletonized, limited to 75 pieces, issued around 2004: 


Then, it is discretely sophisticated.

Here you have two essential parts which shouldn't be under appreciated: the case, and the movement. 

Better, it is the interaction between the two which makes the sophistication of the MUT 34. 

Here lies the challenge of this watch. 

Do you want an evidence? Did you know that all the Master Ultra Thin are assembled at the Spécialités Horlogères workshop, where all the big complications are made? 

In a 4, 20 mm case, you have to install the glass, the dial, the hands, the movement and the case back... There are few watches which do better, in terms of thinness, such as... Another Jaeger-Lecoutre MUT 39 Jubilé ( 4, 05 mm ), another Master Ultra Thin, the Master Ultra Thin Skeleton Enamel 38 ( 3, 60 mm ). 

The solid case back of the steel case white dialed version: 


The see through case back of the steel case, black dialed version:






Ok, the Cal 849 helps with a height of only 1, 85 mm but still, you only have a bit more than 2 extra mm for the rest...

As for the Cal 849, it is not only thin, it is also beautiful to look at. 

For those who wonder why some prefer manual winding movements to automatic movements, here is a good reason: 


That's the true challenge and value of this watch, a challenge that only the connoisseur can appreciate and fully enjoy. The sobriety ( form ) at the service of the content. 

 And a pretty convincing one! 

So, if you are after a dress watch, with true horological content, without having to sell the house, the MUT 34 is THE watch to seriously consider. 

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best.

Nicolas.


More posts: Jaeger LeCoultreMaster Ultra Thin

  login to reply

Comments: view entire thread

 

cadran noir pour moi....

 
 By: mahesh : September 18th, 2018-11:50
subtle & elegant. i think with that minimal dial & thin bezel - might be the feel is close to 36/37... Best, mahesh.,

Phenomenal review

 
 By: xxn : September 18th, 2018-13:05
been lusting on this for a decade, infact those Watch Snob posts are what brought this reference to my attention. Apparently JLC lost money on this one, from the very little information I’ve seen online (it just doesn’t get the props it deserves). A shame... 

Great post! [nt]

 
 By: KtWP : September 18th, 2018-15:17

Thanks for reading! [nt]

 
 By: amanico : September 18th, 2018-15:22

Spot on the 34mm Ultra thin is a great watch!

 
 By: jml_watches : September 18th, 2018-15:43
I'm sure it's been discussed here before, but thinness can be a complication too. Very much a case of less is more. One that is most definitely on the wish list. Thanks for the great overview! Cheers JML Ps wasn't there a tear down of one of these on the ... 

Can't disagree that sentiment!

 
 By: jml_watches : September 18th, 2018-15:55
One day I'll pull the trigger on one! Cheers JML

Me too, most probably. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : September 18th, 2018-15:57

I would add two points on your lovely thread Nico...

 
 By: eklektik : September 19th, 2018-05:27
First of all, thanks for the nice thread covering all aspects of this very nice JLC. The first thing I would add is that some early models with solid case back were fitted with the old I do not know how many but the following TimeZone article from 2002 p... 

You are right, the Cal 839 was also used. These MUT are pure treasures, for Connoisseurs only, who understand that simplicity doesn't necessarily means " simple ".

 
 By: amanico : September 19th, 2018-07:26
And a point you are very right to highlight: These are watches you can wear everyday... Even if I wouldn't swim with it. Unless we are speaking about 50 meters... From the beach. Best, Nicolas

beautiful watches

 
 By: deanthebakedbean : September 27th, 2018-08:46
but I believe they are 5.75mm thick, the 4.20mm was a mistake in the brochure apparently

Thank for the write up, Nicolas....

 
 By: watchme : September 29th, 2018-08:17
Walt Odets article in the timezone "Horologium," goes a bit more in-depth, and they compliment each other, nicely. Since the 839 and subsequent movements are based, originally, on the VC 1003/AP 2003, with an a change to the click spring, I think the MUT ... 

Seem to have missed this...

 
 By: KMII : September 29th, 2018-11:38
But it’s a watch that is definitely on my to get list. 34mm is perfectly adequate and the thinness and the movement superb Thanks for your great article on it, Nico!

Went checking for options...

 
 By: KMII : September 29th, 2018-11:52
And found the Jubilee one in 39mm as well. Not making life any simpler

Find the platinum to be really cool...

 
 By: KMII : September 29th, 2018-11:55
Was it limited production?

Thanks for the link!

 
 By: KMII : September 29th, 2018-12:08
I vaguely remember having read the article but a good time to do so again

I know the song only too well...

 
 By: KMII : September 29th, 2018-13:02
Only mine includes a move to another country as well

;) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : September 29th, 2018-13:06

It's So Satisfying to Read This Review!

 
 By: gajaria : October 25th, 2021-13:57
You have done me an incredible favour! Helped me to understand why my instinctive choice of this very watch, even as I was much younger then and inexperienced, (and I daresay, also much more awed by the price that I had paid at that time), was the best wa... 

Excellent

 
 By: xxn : October 26th, 2021-07:46
background and overview of this reference. I would say the modern day equivalent is Saxonia thin 37mm in terms of value proposition and horology. JLC was way ahead of the game at that time!

Or the Piaget?

 
 By: amanico : October 26th, 2021-11:57

Yes

 
 By: xxn : October 26th, 2021-12:40
Piaget before JLC and today Saxonia thin provides MUT34 value