The differences in the guilloche work are very subtle, with the surface treatments having a strong influence how the decoration appears

Mar 07, 2018,01:47 AM
 

Sorry for the rubbish pictures but this is all I managed with a loupe and the iphone in "freehand mode". The different light play in the dials can also not be shown with these photos, but this has for me the biggest influence on how the dials appear in natural light, with the watch on the wrist.



The work of Jochen Benzinger shows sharper "ridges", particularly towards the centre of the dial. Since he is using silver for the dial blank and only puts a very thin clear lacquer on the finished dial, the pure silver coming up through the frosting leads to a very delicate sparkling. But for some reason there is much less shadow play compared to Kari Voutilainen's dial, which could have something to do with the different forms of the "corns" in the pattern.



The guilloche of Kari Voutilainen is stunning by its extreme precision. When we discussed his GMT watches recently, we run out of time before assessing my watch, so I am not yet/no longer sure how the surface of this dial is treated. It is based on a gold blank, so the "silver" is either painted or brought on by a galvanic process. This silvery-white colour leads to such a strong shadow play that the initially planned finer pattern had to be given up, otherwise the dial would have become too busy. While this dial also has a faint silver "sparkling", it is not in the same irregular and more natural way visible as in the Benzinger dial. When directly comparing the two dials, the Benzinger one leaves generally a more "artisanal" impression. Viewed as a whole, I believe these different appearances of the dials of the two watches have exactly the right "touch" to fit in with the detailing of the rest of the watch: A more artisanal touch with the Benzinger, absolute precision with the Voutilainen.



Taking in the PP 5930 to compare, you lose all shadow play with a darker dial colour. The guilloche pattern has thus to be more intricate to attract interest. As nicely as the guilloche work is done on the PP, it looks a bit "industrial" to me compared with the other two watches. But you could say, this is again what is required for a coherent look of the watch.


Many thanks, Magnus, for sharing your thoughts. Commissioning a watch with a one-off case brings such an adventure indeed on a completely different level if not an almost generic shape shall do. But when a "unique piece" (including movement changes) is based on an existing model, getting involved in the creation process with its direct exchanges with the master watchmaker, the issues arising can be well managed (including finances) and bring an unforgettable experience with it. The GMT models in Kari Voutilainen's range have all been developed based on an initial commission of a customer. If you have a good idea for a complication, there is thus always a chance that a new model an independet watchmaker is developing and later offering is exactly what you want.

Björn




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Commissioning a Unique Piece to Celebrate Traditional Craftsmanship: Jochen Benzinger with Svend Andersen

 
 By: BjoernM21 : February 20th, 2018-13:05
In the watch industry masters of different trades work together. Jochen Benzinger is a specialist for decorative work on dials and movement parts, but he offers also watches bearing his name. I wanted one of his watches, though, he could not offer the add...  

Very thorough post my friend 👌🏻

 
 By: Watchonthewrists : February 20th, 2018-13:52
Love his work 😘 here is one of my CvdK ...  

What a great, and informative post!

 
 By: JToddH : February 21st, 2018-05:08
It is so nice to see the old-world artisanship still active. Such a good article and worthy of a re-read or two to really soak in and appreciate the skill and dedication these brands bring to the art.

Great post, great brands.

 
 By: TomSinger : February 20th, 2018-23:45
I was always a fan of Benzinger watches, I'm even more now! Thanks for sharing Björn.

Excellent - this is a monumental post!

 
 By: cazalea : February 21st, 2018-11:25
As a tiny background contribution, here is an example of Benzinger/Chronoswiss circa 2008 Leap Year meeting of Purists sorry for the blurry photo Cazalea ...  

Everyone Read This !

 
 By: DonCorson : February 21st, 2018-12:35
Another of Bjorrn's research projects in independent watchmaking! Don

Fabulous post - I need to re-read and digest this.

 
 By: Bounce781 : February 21st, 2018-17:15
I’ve always admired Nr Benzinger and Mr Andersen’s work. One of my “early mistakes” was to sell a unique Benzinger piece “Reelsmith” I was lucky to acquire second-hand. Have always missed having it (Photo by the original owner) ...  

Wow Bjorn!

 
 By: Tim Jackson : February 21st, 2018-23:18
What a splendid read this article is, thank you so much for taking the time to do this, sharing so much of the custom process, decisions and challenges made in order to execute on an idea with two Master craftsmen! Not an easy exercise, and you are to be ... 

I have a late response to this, simply because...

 
 By: skyeriding : February 26th, 2018-08:17
...I can't find the words to do justice to compliment such an incredibly written article!! There is a certain beauty in seeing your request as a client to the watchmaker - as you described, you're assuming the role as a "foreman", to direct at a high leve... 

Wow... what a story and picture overload...

 
 By: andrewluff : February 26th, 2018-09:27
Need to sit down and digest all the information... thank you for taking the time! I never knew the partnership with Habring! Your piece is superb, love the guilloche bezel as the final touch... BIG Congratulations!!! Here's my piece G & B... Cheers Andrew...  

A beauty

 
 By: Donny Tondo : December 13th, 2023-02:44
Andrew — Thank you for sharing. Your G&B is a beauty. Would you mind also sharing info about the movement?

Thank you

 
 By: ztirual : February 26th, 2018-11:24
for your wonderfully researched, documented and written article. I particularly enjoyed all the information describing the guillochage technique. You have in your Voutilainen and your Benzinger two delightful watches, that reflect your taste and deep pass... 

Dear Björn, I had the immense pleasure of reading your treatise on watch-creating once more with a free mind...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : March 5th, 2018-13:39
For me, selecting an existing watch, paying for it and walking out of a watch boutique is one thing, where your own money is the sole matter that is at stake. However, I find becoming actively involved in the actual creation, just like you to elaborately ... 

The differences in the guilloche work are very subtle, with the surface treatments having a strong influence how the decoration appears

 
 By: BjoernM21 : March 7th, 2018-01:47
Sorry for the rubbish pictures but this is all I managed with a loupe and the iphone in "freehand mode". The different light play in the dials can also not be shown with these photos, but this has for me the biggest influence on how the dials appear in na...  

Here is my unique benzinger

 
 By: vivek : July 17th, 2019-11:43
Eternal calendar ...  

Can’t believe I didn’t notice your article a year ago

 
 By: Homme de La Firme : July 18th, 2019-00:28
The article has amazing detail and depth I wish I would see more nowadays as almost all watch journalism is focusing on fast content on new launches to fuel the visitor amounts and views for ad ratings. Just amazing work - thank you!

I don’t know how on Earth I missed this MASTERFUL post 2 years ago

 
 By: Brandon Skinner : June 2nd, 2020-16:54
But I’m so glad I found it today. Congrats on your very special watch and thank you so much for taking us a long for the ride. I learned a lot today and you’ve inspired me to perhaps to do something of my own with an Indy down the line.