Independents

In Watches by George Daniels and Cecil Clutton, it is mentioned that a stark, instrument-like finish was popular because (I'm paraphrasing because I don't have the book in hand) "an English gentleman of the time could not be seen to indulge in excess ornamentation." 

I mention George Daniels because I can't imagine that we'd see any watches finished this way now if it weren't for his influence, and his obvious preference for this type of finishing. In Watchmaking he seems to indicate a belief that the gilded/frosted British-style finish is objectively superior to the plated, anglaged, striped continental finish. Again, I'm paraphrasing because the book is at home, but that's the gist. That being said, he had very good things to say about Patek Philippe in his biography, and clearly thought highly of the brand's finishing.

Of course, after George Daniels we have Roger Smith, and the Frodsham watch is another step in the re-emergence of true British watchmaking, and the British style of movement finishing. Roger Smith, in his YouTube videos, has stated his preference for the 3/4 plate design because it maintains more rigidity, keeping the train aligned during use and servicing. One might suppose that modern production methods of bridged movements produce ample rigidity, but it's a helpful reminder that the design has a basis in functionality.

Finally, as it relates to the man hours and skill required for production, it's my understand (from one of the aforementioned books; can't recall specifically which right now) that the method of frosting the finish by hand is actually extremely delicate, and a plate can easily be ruined. Add to this the fact that Daniels' and Smith's watches have incredibly intricate, multi-piece hand guilloche dials, and you can add up where a lot of the man hours are spent on finishing. Of course, the Frodsham lacks such a dial.

An interesting tidbit I read recently over on SJX in his article about the new Akrivia watch (quoting): "According to Rexhep, a frosted finish (which is the only viable alternative for a watch of this quality) is more prone to oxidise or stain over time if moistures enters the case or as the result of careless handling during servicing. Geneva stripes, on the other hand, is a more robust finish."

Overall, both styles of finishing are the products of their respective histories, and of the influence of particular makers. Stylistically, the difference is clearly subjective, I don't think you'd be wrong to prefer one over the other. For me, I like both, as long as it's consistent with the full package. 

Hope that helps!

Brandon

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