Horological Meandering

RALPH LAUREN RL Automotive Skeleton Unveiling in Singapore

 

On 20th October 2015, RALPH LAUREN Watch And Jewelry hosted an event to showcase their new RALPH LAUREN RL Automotive Skeleton in Singapore at their duplex Marina Bay Sands Boutique.  

Please join me on a virtual tour of the evening and followed by a closer look at the RL Automotive Skeleton with LIVE photographs.

The facade of the duplex RALPH LAUREN Boutique in Marina Bay Sands.  The RL watch section is located near the front entrance on the ground floor.

For our global visitors, I should explain that a duplex showroom in one of the most luxurious retail malls in Singapore deserves a second look. The Marina Bay Sands casino complex is now a landmark in Singapore and visible prominently at every major telecast of the bay e.g. F1 Grand Prix racing.

The acquisition of a duplex retail space demonstrates commitment to the luxury retail experience and to pardon the pun, more than a one pony show than just Ralph Lauren polo shirts!

Showcase of the RL Automotive Skeleton watch with a model of the 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe

Various steps of the amboyna burl wood bezel fabrication were displayed.

Mr Jerome Souman, VP of RALPH LAUREN Watch & Jewelry International Sales & Training, gave an introduction to the guests about RALPH LAUREN and
then the  RL Automotive Skeleton watch.

Only 1 piece of the RL Automotive Skeleton was available, such is the rarity of production. Everyone gathered closer to have a detailed look.

Mr David Manna, RALPH LAUREN's International Training Senior Manager, answering guest's queries of the  RL Automotive Skeleton.

RALPH LAUREN RL Automotive Skeleton
Most will remember 'Polo' when the word 'Ralph Lauren' is mentioned.   This American designer was already a brand icon even before the buzz-word " branding" or brand management emerged.
Over the years, he has expanded his clothing and accessory universe related to adventurer (Safari), equestrian, driving and motorcycling, formal and hip genres.  That's not just it: we understand that he even designed and built furniture.  He is an avid collector of classic automobiles and watches too.

In 2011, he started his Automotive Watch series drawing inspiration from a personal vintage collection of automobiles.

In 2015, he unveiled another five Automotive watches and one of them is the RALPH LAUREN RL Automotive Skeleton, inspired by his 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe.

The 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe is a rare classic car: only 4 were built.

We heard mention that it cost Ralph Lauren about $40 Million to acquire but that is only hearsay!
It was designed by Jean Bugatti and built until 1940.  A sudden discontinuation of this classic car may have been due to the World War II.
The body of the Type 57SC is of Duralumin (an aluminium alloy), which at that time, was the one of lightest metals (besides magnesium) or equivalent to today's carbon fibre.
The body panels were riveted, creating signature seams.  Probably the stitching of the leather straps on the watch resemble the rivet seams?

From the Type 57SC model, the colour scheme is black, silver and golden yellowish-brown for the steering wheel and dashboard.

Two kinds of burl wood are used in the Automotive Collection - the Elm burl and the Amboyna burl.  Typically the softer Elm burl is used on the dashboard, thus for the Chronograph and Chronometer pieces, the Elm burl is on the dial (as a display dashboard) and protected by the sapphire crystal.
As for the RL  Automotive Skeleton's wood bombe bezel, since it is exposed to external elements, just like the steering wheel (of the Type 57SC), they are of the same exotic and expensive Amboyna burl.

Amboyna burl is extremely dense and resistant to splitting. It is not easy to work with, even by machines because the grain is twisted and interlocked: causing it to chip and shatter easily.  Thus, it requires a skilled craftsman to cut, mill,lathe, polish and bore; to finish the bombe burl bezel.

Above is a section of the amboyna burl, showing how a round block is cut and then processed. 

This video ( at 0:39) gives a glimpse of the craftsman fabricating the bezel.

A layer of lacquer was applied at the last stage to protect the surface and give it a slight glossy finish.

The burl bezel is set onto a metal support plate and the six holes are drilled and then bored for the screws to secure it to the caseband.

Though it was not mentioned in the specifications, the RL Automotive Skeleton, will be limited in production of 50 pieces. 

The 45mm diameter (by 11.20mm height) case of 316L steel, is blackened and annealed in chemical bath.

Water-resistance is rated to 50m.

To reduce glare and enhance the viewing pleasure of the skeletonised movement, the sapphire is slightly convex and anti-reflective coated on the second surface of the crystal.

The open-work is well-planned with balanced symmetry and nicely exposes the large balance wheel of the hand-wound IWC-sourced FA Jones 98290 movement.  Both the 12H (near the barrel area) and 6H sub-dial areas are decorated with  azurage pattern. Overall the platine is black matte galvanised to closely match the case. 

A prominent change is an added  'RL' logo, probably to identify this watch is of the RL universe.  Somehow the logo seems to be too large and sort of 'in your face'. Even the full word at 6H is big.

The sword-shaped hour and minute hands are coated with a beige Super-LumiNova to provide a consistent vintage feel.

The lug-horns have a stepped curve profile, perhaps, referencing the fenders of the Type 57SC. 

With the quick-dropped design, this 45mm watch embraces small wrists well, even better after the leather strap is softened.

The crown is signed with RL logo, and of the right size for easy winding and time adjustment.  Constant winding may wear the burl bezel around the crown area.  For some,  it may even be a welcome sign of use or stories to tell.  As for those who are particular, it would be wise to check with RALPH LAUREN if the 15-year-warranty for the bombe Amboyna burl bezel covers this area.

A snapshot of the skeletonised work.

The FA Jones caliber is skeletonised by ValFleurier at the component level.  The whole assembly of the movement, casing and final quality control and assurance is executed by RALPH LAUREN Watch division.
This manual movement RL1967 beats at 18,000VPH and has a power reserve of 45 hours. 

It is actually very beautiful. Seeing the Jones calibre with black bridges / platine, contrasting with the golden and silverish alloy parts and red rubies, sort of reminds us of the Bamford pieces.

The balance cock area is bevelled, whereas the rest is a respectable industrial finished.

The RL Automotive Skeleton is matched with black alligator strap with black Alsavel lining and a black pin-buckle. 
Perhaps a deployant clasp shaped like the door of the 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe would be great.

A lume snapshot of the beige Super-Luminova coated hands and the RL logo at low light.

From a design and aesthetic perspective, the colour interplay of the warm burl bezel, the dark case and the calibre is unique and harmonious, a good blend of soft and hard.  The only apprehension, is the size of both the logos on 'dial side'.  This RL Automotive Skeleton is already an icon, which could be recognised even at a distance with its distinctive burl bezel so there is no reason for such a large logo.   With the black galvanised FA Jones calibre within, it is indeed exclusive.  Overall, the RL Automotive Skeleton is scored well in both form and function.


What are your thoughts?



Kong