cazalea
[Seiko Moderator]
17068
Armin Strom Swiss Watch Overview & the Max Chilton Edge Watch at Texas Motor Speedway
Hello folks,
I have recently had the opportunity to spend 24 hours in Texas as the guest of the Armin Strom team, along with a small group of distinguished watch journalists.
Our mission?
To discover Armin Strom, the Company; meet Max Chilton the driver; watch Max win the Texas 600 IndyCar race; have a good time. Well, three out of four isn't too bad. We had fun, we discovered the watches and met Max, and what can I say about the race that this photo can't convey?
Let's start with the watches.
ARMIN STROM
Armin Strom is a small watch company located near Biel/Bienne in Switzerland. There a few dozen employees manage to create about 600 watches a year for distribution around the world. They have decided to focus on making their own movements (minus hairsprings, jewels and a few other small items). This gives them flexibility to change things when necessary, independence from waiting around for big suppliers to deliver parts, and the ability to service watches within 6 weeks! They also avoid stamping parts, which reduces tooling costs and time. As production runs are typically 100 watches per model, they have a good sense of how many parts they need to produce. All this improves production efficiency and controls costs, explained our host, Sebastian Marten.
The company recruited Claude Greisler, formerly with Christophe Claret, to settle on a strategy for production and movement design. Working with his small team, he was able to style the movement's architecture while laying out its mechanical functions. Key to this was a unique offset arrangement of the movement in the case, which we will cover later, and an open dial arrangement. Not only does this add interest to the watch, it reduces dial production issues.
Armin Strom chose a clever marketing strategy for the variants of each model, based on 4 primary elements FIRE, WATER, EARTH and AIR. Those names describe watch cases made of Gold, Stainless Steel, Black PVD Stainless, and Titanium, respectively. Some of the optional configurations are labeled in clever ways too - such as the term GRAVITY to describe those that have automatic winding.
ARMIN STROM WATCH CONFIGURATIONS
Here is a grid showing the variations in their current catalog. I compiled it today using their printed materials - any confusion or errors are likely to be my fault or the buckets of caffeine required to survive the weekend. If at any time in this article you can't determine which watch is which, you can refer to the chart below.
The Racing models contain alloy melted down from a F1 engine block and machined into some of the movement parts. I can't say exactly what that adds to the watch, other than it's more appealing (to me) than moon dust or Titanic rust.
ARMIN STROM MOVEMENT ARCHITECTURE
I have created this drawing to illustrate the offset configuration of the center shafts of the watch (where the hands attach). By placing these key components slightly to the left of center, AS is able to use larger barrels for longer autonomy compared to a "standard" 42 hour ETA-type movement. And by sticking with this 3-circles arrangement, they can drop in various displays (seconds, date, day/night, power reserve) or features (tourbillon) without having to redesign the entire movement. All models are slow-running, with a 18,000 beats/hour frequency that is more common in pocket watch type movements.
Another bonus which I appreciate is the lovely detailing of the "keyless works" (watch lingo for the crown, winding and setting components). No cheap, stamped plates and levers.
The large, 36.6mm diameter movements fill the standard 43.4mm case, providing a satisfying view through the sapphire caseback.
I am not a big fan of large watch cases (generally), but this watch won me over. It was extremely comfortable, no matter which variation I tried on. See the obligatory hand-in-pocket shot while, waiting for the ever-so-slow hotel elevator. This angle also highlights the hornback strap.
ARMIN STROM EDGE CASE DESIGN
Our visit to Dallas was to report on the launch of a new model in AS's 2016 Edge lineup, which feature modified movements in a larger 46.8mm case. The Armin Strom-supplied graphic below points out features of the Edge case design.
After our hotel reception briefing, we jumped into a van and headed to the track. When we arrived, the storm warning on the scoreboard should have given us a clue that the race was in jeopardy. But it was 85º F, and Texas, so anything seemed possible.
We found our way to the garages and caught up with Max Chilton (a very nice guy) who was in a cheery mood and happily posed for some photos.
He explained to us how he likes a larger, more aggressive look in his watches, and has enjoyed wearing several different models in his multi-year relationship with Armin Strom, first in F1 and now IndyCars. He handed us the Max Chilton special edition #1 watch, giving us all a chance to see it briefly before the actual launch presentation. Oops. We won't tell.
Max was the only one with this watch (of course, as it is one of eight). The rest of us swapped the other AS watches around, trying on the different models, taking pictures, and making a modest nuisance of ourselves in the garage area. The team didn't seem to mind too much - I suppose this is standard behavior at races.
But I think they were baffled that we took more pictures of the watches than of the cars.
We did look at other cars, just to be polite.
We found our way back to the hospitality tent and descended on the meal awaiting us there.
ARMIN STROM WATCHES IN A RACETRACK CONTEXT
While we excitedly waited for the race to start, and bemoaned the rain, we continued to study the watches and accompanying literature.
I had my nifty DiaScope with me (procured last week in Las Vegas) so I took some freehand macro shots.
It does a nice job of showing the depth of this watch - you can see the escape wheel down there ...
and I see a pallet jewel here.
Eventually we were "carted" over to the pits, for a walk down pit row.
We went through the track tunnel to the bleachers ... by the time we had climbed 43 rows with watches, beverages and soggy clothes, it was Huff Puff Groan Moan for a few minutes. We timed our throbbing hearts. We took more pictures.
I love the back of this watch. It feels a little bit reminiscent of the Grönefeld, I think.
All this time trucks with jet engines in back were circling the track, deafening us and futilely trying to dry it off.
A monster transformer truck-thing came out and spit fire at us, while crushing a few cars. This was the most exciting point of the afternoon.
I loved this thing! One of the race drivers came on the PA system and said they'd given him a ride, and he found the experience much more scary than his race car, as he was 30+ feet in the air.
We waited a long time as the track management tried to get in under the weather, but finally we gave up. We trudged down the 43 rows, under the tunnel, into our van, and back to the hotel. No racing for us Saturday night. Alas. We felt bad for the drivers, our hosts, and the other fans.
AFTERMATH
I've actually forgotten which watch I had on when the evening ended. One of our group composed a "pillow talk" ode to his watch, which I note was the white dial, stainless, tourbillon, automatic ... oh bother. It was that bright one in the middle of these ...
I don't think anyone let on that Max had shown us a glimpse of his watch 18 hours before in the IndyCar garage ...
I like the modern, machine / race car finishing. It's appropriate for the watch. The blue trimmings match Max's car. The Union Jack superimposed over the 8 hints back to his roots - he was born in Redhill, Surrey, UK in 1992. (I too lived in Surrey in 1992 but I was already 40 then - yikes!)
Silver stitching on the strap; blackened PVD bezel front and rear, twin spring barrels, contrasting metal finishing, Edge case, crown protection, lots of rubies.
Cazalea
All this time trucks with jet engines in back were circling the track, deafening us and futilely trying to dry it off.
A monster transformer truck-thing came out and spit fire at us, while crushing a few cars. This was the most exciting point of the afternoon.
I loved this thing! One of the race drivers came on the PA system and said they'd given him a ride, and he found the experience much more scary than his race car, as he was 30+ feet in the air.
We waited a long time as the track management tried to get in under the weather, but finally we gave up. We trudged down the 43 rows, under the tunnel, into our van, and back to the hotel. No racing for us Saturday night. Alas. We felt bad for the drivers, our hosts, and the other fans.
AFTERMATH
As journalists often do, we got together in the hotel lounge for a debriefing, where we discussed the technical details of the Armin Strom watch line, rain, and the sport of motor racing. We did a bit more testing of our watches under grueling table-top conditions and found they operated perfectly.
I've actually forgotten which watch I had on when the evening ended. One of our group composed a "pillow talk" ode to his watch, which I note was the white dial, stainless, tourbillon, automatic ... oh bother. It was that bright one in the middle of these ...
The next morning we all slept in til 10, then bounced cheerfully down to the patio for brunch and the presentation of the Max Chilton Edge.
I don't think anyone let on that Max had shown us a glimpse of his watch 18 hours before in the IndyCar garage ...
I like the modern, machine / race car finishing. It's appropriate for the watch. The blue trimmings match Max's car. The Union Jack superimposed over the 8 hints back to his roots - he was born in Redhill, Surrey, UK in 1992. (I too lived in Surrey in 1992 but I was already 40 then - yikes!)
Silver stitching on the strap; blackened PVD bezel front and rear, twin spring barrels, contrasting metal finishing, Edge case, crown protection, lots of rubies.
As we were waiting for the rain to start up again, we took our final pictures of "our" Armin Strom watches. Then our hosts compelled us to hand them back in.
Despite the debacle of the race, I at least had a great time and immensely enjoyed handling and wearing these watches. I'd had a glimpse of Armin Strom a couple years ago, but never really took a close look. I appreciate the engineering and modular approach chosen for these watches.
Despite the debacle of the race, I at least had a great time and immensely enjoyed handling and wearing these watches. I'd had a glimpse of Armin Strom a couple years ago, but never really took a close look. I appreciate the engineering and modular approach chosen for these watches.
If supporting a small watch company appeals to you like it does to me; if the styling and size are appropriate to your wrist and lifestyle; if you like a rational explanation of how the product is developed; if you want to avoid an excess of marketing fluff, then take a look at Armin Strom.
Cazalea
This message has been edited by cazalea on 2016-06-14 02:41:23
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Wow - they should invite you more often :)
The report was typically yours - informative, erudite, somewhat tongue in cheek and illustrated with great photography. More please
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Looking forward to more! :)
And I will certainly read these more carefully than the diamond ones
