Armin Strom: Claude Greisler Interview on Tourbillon

AndrewD provides an exclusive interview with Claude Greisler, Technical Director of Armin Strom, offering a rare glimpse into the brand's philosophy and the development of their in-house movements. This piece highlights Armin Strom's journey from skeletonizing ETA movements to becoming a full-fledged manufacture, with a special focus on the launch of their new tourbillon. Readers will gain insight into Greisler's passion for watchmaking and the brand's unique approach to design and decoration.

During my visit to Switzerland in October I spent a few hours with the staff of Armin Strom to get some insights into their watches and watchmaking philosophy. I spoke with Claude Greisler, Director of the Armin Strom Manufacture, on the day of his new tourbillon launch at the Hotel Alpenblick in Interlaken, Switzerland. Claude is responsible for design and movement development at Armin Strom.

On the philosophy and approach of the company: “The movement is the main thing for us. Armin Strom was skeletonizing movements in the 1980s when no one was interested in mechanical watches. The movement, the engraving, the craftsmanship was always at the centre of an Armin Strom watch. In 2006, when was in his mid 60’s he wanted to turn his production into a brand. He started working with ETA movements, but in 2008 Swatch announced reduced access to the ebauches. And collectors were focusing more on manufactured movements too. Also, Mr Strom spent so much time skeletonizing and engraving ETA movements that it pushed the price level too high. So we decided it was better to do it in-house where you can create a canvas and do the mechanical design and the movement decoration in a parallel process. We think at the beginning about the decoration, which is a different way of working to most watch manufactures.”

I asked Claude which part of job he enjoys most and the answer was: “… the lunch break!”. [Laughing, of course]. More seriously: “… design is nice but the best is the construction, because you can see how the watch grows. I started as a watchmaker and then did restoration of watches and clocks. I then worked for Christophe Claret. Claret also started in Lyon doing clock restoration and of course F.P.Journe went down the same path in Paris. I was always fascinated by clocks …”

Armin Strom has come a long way in a short time. They purchased their first CNC machine in January 2009, and the tourbillon is the third manufactured movement they have developed. Claude was wearing a prototype of the new tourbillon and allowed me to strap it on for a few photos.

“An in-house tourbillon was a dream for Armin Strom. And given my experience with Christophe Claret it was a logical step. We wanted it ready for Basel in 2013, but this prototype was first assembled in March 2012, and pleasingly it was running without problems. A lot of preparation was done on the computer before that and the preparation paid off."

The Calibre ATC11 is designed and made completely in-house and has twin barrels connected in series giving a power reserve of an impressive 10 days. The escapement, which runs at 2.5Hz, uses a hairspring with a Breguet terminal curve and a high inertia balance wheel poised with white gold balancing screws. When winding the watch you can see the ratchet wheels turning. The diameter is 44.6mm with short lugs and uniquely the shape is slightly conical with a 2mm difference that increases the wearing comfort.

“The philosophy of Armin Strom is always to show the movement and the Tourbillon is a fascinating and beautiful complication that you can view from the dial side. We wanted the tourbillon cage to be very thin and light as possible. The dial is made in-house using CNC cutting machines.”

The lip at 6 o’clock on the case is an Armin Strom signature flourish which was present on his early watches and is continued in the current iteration. It allows the customer to monogram their watch, just as they might a shirt cuff. Approximately 25% of customers currently order their watch with an engraving.

“We then decided to introduce the new Tourbillon in 4 sets of 4 watches, each representing a different element (Water, Earth, Fire, Air) and each with a special decoration on the movement. The cases are the same apart from the metal. All of our watches have the movement visible from the dial side. This comes from the Armin Strom history because 30 years ago he was skeletonizing movements so you could see it functioning from the front of the watch.”

“The collection of 4 watches will be ready for Basel. Later the individual tourbillons will be available in the themes we have today with more classical finishing with Geneva stripes, perlage and hand engravings. Some customers have already ordered customized Tourbillons. They will be available in steel, titanium, red and white gold. We also plan to add additional complications such as date and automatic winding.”

I asked what Mr. Strom thought of the watch and Claude replied: “… Armin Strom said that he always wanted to have his own manufactured movement. He worked on a skeletonized Tourbillon for Omega and he always said the Tourbillon and the minute repeater was one of the best complications from a watchmaker’s perspective.”

And on the company: “... Armin Strom has 4 mechanics and we do everything: screws, wheels, pins, bridges, mainplates. It is really a complete manufactory. Two watchmakers only perform decorations. One girl does engraving and the galvanic treatment to get the colours perfect. Finally we have 3 watchmakers and a 4th apprentice from watchmaking school. We have two girls in marketing.

For more information on the Armin Strom tourbillon, click here for Don's Interlaken launch report, click here for Ed's Los Angeles launch event and click here for Kong's Singapore launch event.

Andrew