Overall an interesting read, thx for that. Your text seems to be a bit shallow in some parts, though.

Apr 10, 2024,07:46 AM
 

The current Vacheron Overseas does have a very good fine adjustment on the metal bracelet. The leather and rubber strap clasp for it don’t need it in my opinion. The Octo Finissimo metal bracelet doesn‘t have one because of its construction, which has been done for the clasp to be fully hidden inside the bracelet, whereas other brands have parts of the clasp sitting between the bracelet andd the wrist. A well justified reason for a watch marketed as thin or ultrathin imho.

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Conspicuous Conundrum: New Watches Are Lacking Fine Adjustment Bracelets and Buckles

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-06:45
It's a quiet Watches and Wonders 2024 this year. And one thing I was hoping and predicting to see was more clasps with fine adjustment. So far, I'm disappointed, as I'm not seeing a lot of these clasps and bracelets with fine adjustments. Why does a clasp...  

 
 By: drricook : April 10th, 2024-07:43
Nice post and photos. I couldn't agree more! I had a beautiful Bvlgari Octo Finissimo that I had to let go simply because I could not get the perfect fit. Equally, I nearly bought the Chopard Alpine Eagle but did not for the same reason-it's infuriating!

Thank you!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-08:28
It's a luxury object that's supposed to be a perfect work of art. I just think this fine adjustment for the bracelet would be an important part of perfecting a product.

Overall an interesting read, thx for that. Your text seems to be a bit shallow in some parts, though.

 
 By: nafetS : April 10th, 2024-07:46
The current Vacheron Overseas does have a very good fine adjustment on the metal bracelet. The leather and rubber strap clasp for it don’t need it in my opinion. The Octo Finissimo metal bracelet doesn‘t have one because of its construction, which has bee... 

You must know more about the subject than I do.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-08:34
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas models are hard to come by and the photos online didn't show the fine adjustment. But now that you mentioned it, I do recall now that I read a press release about it around two years ago or so, mentioning that the bracelet... 

Sorry, if I offended you. English ist not my native tongue, so I sometimes use words in a wrong way.

 
 By: nafetS : April 10th, 2024-11:43
Regarding the Overseas: Here‘s two quick pictures showing the bracelet with the extensions on both sides pushed in and pulled out. Regarding the Octo Finissimo: Here‘s two quick pictures showing how the clasp is actually integrated into the links of the b...  

Not at all!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-15:08
You are fine! Thank you for the pictures. The Vacheron Contantin photo is a nice reminder of how the system works! The Bulgari is a nice watch! I have some too!

 
 By: drricook : April 10th, 2024-09:52
I can understand your reasoning, but it frustrates me that if there is no variability in the clasp, at least offer a half link/different sized links which only a few manufacturers do. Bvlgari do not as far as I am aware, and even though the links are smal... 

True!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-15:19
Especially for design lead brands like Cartier and Bulgari, the desire to create a certain look may be the higher priority. But still, the resources these large companies have are vast. And many brands spend more time and money making patented exclusive s... 

Indeed.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-15:09
Yes, that's another thing about these micro adjustments! With the micro adjustment, one generally doesn't need a small 0.5 link or the large 1.5 link.

Thank you for the overview!

 
 By: 74hk : April 10th, 2024-07:54
However, when looking at Formex and Longines Spirit (both powered by dexel) and Parmigiani for the Tonda 1950 in steel I'm not sure if the cost argument still holds water. Some of the major brands just don't seem to care too much when it comes to micro ad...  

I agree. Costs shouldn't be a factor, considering less expensive brands like Rolex and Omega do find a way.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-08:41
The problem, which I didn't make very clear, in my article (for keeping it short, otherwise, it quickly gets very long) is that these higher end watches often make a lot of watches in gold. And once you have a part made in gold, the costs go up significan... 

I honestly never use fine adjustment so it's not a deal breaker for me

 
 By: andrea~ : April 10th, 2024-07:58
But I still think that it's a good thing to have.

Neither did I...

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-08:45
I didn't use one for a very long time. My first watch, a watch I wore nearly every day for nearly 10 years, didn't have it. Sometimes, on a warm day, the watch would be noticeably tight, and sometimes on a cold morning, the watch would be too loose. I'm c... 

If they don't invest much in new movements

 
 By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : April 10th, 2024-12:02
Why they should pay R&D for a simple buckle?

You bring up a good point!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-15:11
New movements that are easier to service, cheaper to produce, more accurate, and using the latest silicon technologies that reduce servicing requirements is a priority for the brands. Not new buckles. But some of these new movements are already put into w... 

Imagie living in Singapore.... Heat, humidity outdoors... air conditioning, ocean swimming...

 
 By: enjoythemusic : April 10th, 2024-16:18
..my wirst size changes. So very much a big yes i use the clasp adjustments. Since i tend to change bands, you can also choose the pinbuckle / clasp, which also affects the overall fitment. Of course when all else fails, just add another hole in the leath... 

Absolutely!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 10th, 2024-18:39
At home, I have tools to adjust my strap. If I really need to. This rarely happens. But when I'm traveling to Singapore, Taipei, or any of these "warm" countries where one goes from air conditioned coolness, to hot outdoors and back and forth all the time...  

It seems many have opinions of your piece!

 
 By: Darron : April 11th, 2024-14:12
Thanks for the clarifying post on the translation of R&D from steel to gold and the sheer material cost in gold does put and added factor in CoGS. I would also like to point to material properties too wrt steel vs. gold, so another point for a brand that ...