foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
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SIHH 2013: Lange & Söhne, the comprehensive report
After one full week in Geneva, I consider that Lange, along with Cartier and JLC, was one of the most convincing brands of the 2013 SIHH. Honestly speaking, I was not expecting to see in 2013 some watches of the new collection. But after all, surprises are always welcome... when they are positive! Actually, I would have imagined the Grande Complication debut in 2014 (20th anniversary of the first collection) or in 2015 (200th anniversary of F.A.Lange birth).
Lange presented 7 novelties including variations of existing models what can be considered as a very reasonable figure. But we don't have to forget that Lange is a small company which roughly produces around 4500 watches per year and in this context, the key indictor is the number of new movements.
If we analyse the new collection, we can find 3 new movements including the most impressive one ever produced by Lange in a wristwatch.
Grande Complication=New movement
1815 Rattrapante PC=New movement
1815 up and down=New movement
Grand Lange 1 Black dial=movement already existing
Grand Lange 1 Lumen=movement already existing
Saxonia Automatic with diamond-set bezel=movement already existing
Saxonia Annual Calendar=movement already existing
If we put aside the very specific case of the Grande Complication which will be produced at a very slow rhythm (one per year), the two other new movements deserve a closer look.
Despite its reference, the caliber L051.2 of the 1815 up and down is different from the L051.1 of the 1815. It has a larger power reserve (72 hours) which gives a justification of the use of the power reserve display. But even more important, it gives another proof of a new trand firstly observed with the Saxonia Thin: the handwind movements have a new lay-out and the 3/4 plate doesn't hide the click, the ratchet and the crown wheel. Of course we can regret to lose the purety of the 3/4 plate. But let's face it: with more visible parts, the movement is more enjoyable... and we also have ther addition of the small planetary gear train of the power reserve indicator.
So this 1815 up and down can't be considered as a "mere" 1815 with the addition of a complication: it is a true new watch.
The movement L101.1 of the 1815 Rattrapante PC is for me, one of the most gorgeous ever produced by Lange. It is not only a question of finishings but also of lay-out. The split-second system creates an unusual view of the movement... Double-Split included.
The Grand Lange 1 Lumen was unveiled before the Salon at a Pre-SIHH event and I already presented a comprehensive report on it. The 3 remaining watches even if they don't produce the same feeling of surprise than the watches with new movements also deserve a closer look.
I propose you to discover in more details these 7 novelties. Each watch will be presented in two parts: the first part with my own feelings and pictures, the second one with the press release of the brand.
But before... we need to enter the booth!
Part 1: the Booth
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Part 2: the Grande Complication
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Part 3: the Grande Complication (PR)
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Part 4: the 1815 Rattrapante PC
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Part 5: the 1815 Rattrapante PC (PR)
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Part 6: the 1815 Up and Down
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Part 7: the 1815 Up and Down (PR)
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Part 8: the Grand Lange 1 "Lumen"
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Part 9: the Grande Lange 1 "Lumen" (PR)
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Part 10: the Grande Lange 1 WG
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Part 11: the Grande Lange 1 WG (PR)
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Part 12: the Saxonia Annual Calendar Platinum
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Part 13: the Saxonia Annual Calendar Platinum (PR)
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Part 14: the Saxonia Automatic diamond set bezel
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Part 15: the Saonia Automatic diamond set bezel (PR)
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Conclusion
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Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2013-02-02 02:35:47 This message has been edited by foversta on 2013-02-03 01:00:22 This message has been edited by foversta on 2013-02-09 02:15:11
SIHH 2013: Lange & Söhne, the comprehensive report
After one full week in Geneva, I consider that Lange, along with Cartier and JLC, was one of the most convincing brands of the 2013 SIHH. Honestly speaking, I was not expecting to see in 2013 some watches of the new collection. But after all, surprises ar...
Part 1: the booth
Lange didn't change the lay-out of its booth which was the right decision. The only change, if I remember well the previous years, was the upstairs room in which the cabinet of the Grande Complication was located. If we forget the stones in the middle of ...
Part 2: the Grande Complication
It is not so easy to speak about the Grande Complication and to give my own feelings. I could see the watch in its cabinet, I saw it working including the Foudroyante but I didn't wear it nor handle it. Pictures were not allowed. The watch is obviously no...
Only with German dial version?
Many thanks for all the reports. Very enjoyable to read. My comment on this one: a pure collectors item for the prestige. Lock forward to simple striking watches that will be available for a wider audience, like the ZW Striking Time. Best Moritz var __chd...
Yes Moritz, I have the same expectation
I would be happy to see a MR or even better a GS watch in a more simple and more wearable context. Thanks for your comments! Fx
I think the revelation of the Grande Complication....
.... serves more as a teaser than a presentation. And i think the intention is well-thought: a pleasure delayed is a pleasure enhanced for this situation. Congrats to the chosen six!
Part 3: the Grande Complication (Press Release)
Pinnacle of watchmaking: GRAND COMPLICATION Limited to a mere six pieces: The most complicated and most exclusive A. Lange & Söhne timepiece ascends to the pinnacle of precision watchmaking. The GRAND COMPLICATION features a host of fascinating functi...
Part 4: the 1815 Rattrapante PC
The 1815 Rattrapante PC is my fav Lange watch of the year and without any doubt of the Salon. It is a totally different watch from the Datograph Perpetual which was previously gathering a PC with a chronograph (indeed, without the rattrapante). It is the ...
A bit too many notes ... ehhhrm: hands!
Why not a window display to make it a bit more divers? Porthole usage would be also helpful for such complex watches. The "DS issue" "can be forgiven" as it counts only a minute as a rattrapante, so not a big bother. Like I said regarding the GC: descenda...
I think it's a chance there is no big date
consider the Datograph and the 1815 chronograph, there is quite a significant difference of thickness because of the big date mechanism. This 1815 Split Perpetual is already a big beast that small wrist may not be comfortable with. With the Big date I do ...
It does not have to be always a big date
... to be a Lange. But you are right regarding the size of the watch: as Lange is banking more on "robustness" and " force" than slenderness, at the moment, the watch would fall completely out of proportion. I would not be too surprised if Lange offers mo...
It depends Moritz...
On complicated watches, you have to take into account the usual german movements architecture which tend to add multiple layers. On the other hand... they also create this beautiful feeling of depth. On simple watches, I think that the trend was a bit opp...
So... this watch is like Mozart?
I don't see the trouble here with the too many hands mister Salieri. ;) I like this pocket watch inspiration and the overall balance. And I think that once you get used with the colours code of the hands, it is fine! Fx
Nice watch but to me, there is a clear problem with the dial....
... Its an impressive watch, that's clear, but i cannot help myself thinking that the big date would have been sooooo much nicer at the place of the power reserve and seconds sub-dial. Its a clear weakness. Especially that the area under "12" is an eye ma...
Thanks a lot Fricks!
Like Moritz, you are making a good remark and like François, I would answer you that each coin has two sides. The problem of the big date system is its own size in the movement and with complicated watches, each gain of room is welcome to control the move...
Thanks FX Fabulous watch !
and thanks for all the reports. This one seems also to me the masterpiece of the salon. I love everything, the caliber for sure, the presentation is typically Lange and very traditional. I understand the big date seems to miss for Datograph fans but the m...
Thanks François for your comments.
Clearly, more than the diameter, it is the weight and the height which have to be checked by the potential owner. The diameter is fine, the watch is not that big. The issue is the comfort on the wrist: if the watch is well positioned, everything is fine a...
I'm grateful for the live pictures as well, thanks!
This is my favorite watch from the entire collection this SIHH as well. Despite the amount of data presented on the dial, it does not feel cluttered. Besides balance, the reason why the big date display was omitted was probably to allow a better product d...
Your comment is right Rhyzen.
There is an obvious will to propose a very different dial layout from the Datograph perpetual. Thanks for your input! Fx
Yes, this is it!
...other than the original PLM, this one is for me to go for, no matter how long it will take! Thanks for the report, Fx! Ken
Thanks a lot Ken!
By the way, at the Lange dinner, I had the chance to see a watch you know very well... I will come back to it! Best. Fx
The Lange 1 with the engraved caseback...
you presented us... I had the chance to see it and more important to meet its lucky owner! Of course we spoke about you with Edmond! Fx
Ah, nice.
He is a very nice gentleman.... Very, very much in love with Lange..... :-) Thank you, Fx! Ken
Part 5: the 1815 Rattrapante PC (Press Release)
The legacy of a grand tradition: 1815 RATTRAPANTE PERPETUAL CALENDAR The 1815 RATTRAPANTE PERPETUAL CALENDAR melds the technical fascination of a rattrapante chronograph with the enduring precision of a perpetual calendar that does not need to be correcte...
Part 6: the 1815 Up and Down
If you think that the 1815 Up and Down is just an 1815 with the addition of a power reserve display, you are wrong. The watch is very different from the "classic" version. First of all the case is smaller: 39mm vs 40mm. Secondly the case doesn't have the ...
The belle of the ball...
in white gold ... completely agree with you foversta re: the metal.
Part 7: the 1815 Up and Down (Press Release)
An extra hand: 1815 UP/DOWN The sublimely perfect four-hand 1815 UP/DOWN with a power-reserve indicator reflects the A. Lange & Söhne style in its purest form. The number 1815 in its name refers to the birth year of the founder of Saxon precision watc...
Part 8: the Grand Lange 1 "Lumen"
I presented with details the Grand Lange 1 "Lumen" when it was released in the context of a pre-SIHH event organized in Saxony: One month later, I didn't change my mind. This watch manages to combine the elegance of the Grand Lange 1 design with a very c...
The Lumen is so interesting... but...
the more pics I see, the more I regret the GREEN lume color of the Roman numerals... why slime-green? HMmmmmm. Well, I love the watch conceptually, but am cooling off a bit on it.
It is a very complicated watch to shoot Mostel.
But IMHO, due to the complex dial, the colour of the figures works well here. Thanks for your comments! Fx
Interesting...
So the green numerals are not 'green'? Or they are green, but it works to your eyes? VERY VERY interested! Thank you sincerely.
Green they are. But not so green...
For me, they are closer to light green and the meaning of my words was to say that they combine well with the dial. Moreover, the Lumen can really change with the light conditions as you can see on the wristshots: Mostel, I have the feeling that the piece...
Part 9: the Grand Lange 1 "Lumen" (Press Release)
The enlightenment of the outsize date The limited GRAND LANGE 1 “Lumen” offers enlightenment: a semi-transparent dial exposes the ingenious mechanism of the first luminescent outsize date display by A. Lange & Söhne. Legible even in the dark: GRAND LA...
Part 10: the Grand Lange 1 WG
The Grand Lange 1 in WG is not the most surprising watch of the Salon but thanks to its black dial, it is one of my fav novelties. It is even a watch I can consider to buy. Actually, it is much more than the a Grand Lange 1 with a mere black dial. This bl...
Part 11: the Grand Lange 1 WG (Press Release)
Elegance in black: GRAND LANGE 1 Among artists, designers, and avant-gardists, black is considered to be an expression of timeless elegance and creativity. It is a colour that radiates distinction and sophistication. So does the new GRAND LANGE 1, with it...
Part 12: the Saxonia Annual Calendar Platinum
The Saxonia Annual Calendar in Platinum gives us the opportunity to enjoy one more time the Sax-O-Mat movement. Sadly, this iconic 3/4 rotor automatic movement is only available now in the Lange collection with the automatic calendar watches. If you remem...
Part 13: the Saxonia Annual Calendar Platinum (Press Release)
Sublime clarity: SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR in platinum Since it had its debut three years ago, the articulately designed SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR has become a benchmark in the calendar watch category. Apart from the models in pink and white gold, it now come...
Part 14: the Saxonia Automatic diamond set bezel
Last year was presented a Saxonia Automatic with a diamond set bezel and a MOP dial. This year, Lange unveiled a similar watch in a 38,5mm case without the MOP dial in order to meet the expectations of some male customers who look for a precious watch wit...
Part 15: the Saxonia Automatic diamond set bezel (Press Release)
Precious in every respect: SAXONIA AUTOMATIC The diamond-studded SAXONIA AUTOMATIC in a case made of solid white or pink gold coalesces the genius of watchmakers with the virtuosity of gemsetters. Timeless elegance: SAXONIA AUTOMATIC in white gold Elabora...
Conclusion: the year of the tribute to the Pocket watches
The report is over now. I hope that you had the same pleasure to discover the 2013 novelties than me a few days ago in Geneva. After having written this report, my first feelings were confirmed. In my point of view, this 2013 collection is a very solid an...
Excellent Millésime for me.
You're a great ambassador of Lange's watches, thanks for this wide overview after the SiHH 2013. I can't but remain in admiration when I see Lange's efforts concerning the caliber's novelties. Especially compared to other high-end brands. Too many time, I...
Thanks a lot Mark for your detailed remarks.
Your seat is ready at the Boutique! ;) About the 2013 collection, your words are giving a perfect summary of what I think too. Fx
Bravo!
Thanks for the beautiful complete report! Although i have to say it again that i am not particularly turned on by any of the watches, this is good for me as it allows my funds to rest for awhile. Till next year! Tschuss Stephen
Phenomenal report!! Thanks for sharing! Love the new WG GL-1!
Can see one in my future. Cheers,
I was really seduced by this Grand Lange 1
As I wrote, it is a watch I can consider in my collection... the slender case + the black dial = a beautiful combo. Thanks SteelerFan! Fx
It's not longer 3/4 plate...more like 2/3 plate!,
Excellent coverage my friend...and seeing you at SIHH,albeit for a short while. Best, Horo
Thank you FX for your usual excellent report....
Which I found most interesting to read and well balanced. If and only if it was possible to take away the magnificent accomplishment that L&S has achieved with their Grande Complication and turning a blind eye to the price!! I would suspect that i wou...