Jaeger-LeCoultre

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Interview from the JLC Heritage Department!

Interview of Marc-Andre Strahm and Sebastian Vivas ( Heritage Department ), by Dje and Amanico for www.PuristSPro.com

A Manufacture is first and foremost - and beyond the technical aspects - a story of men and women.
In that spirit we considered as much worthy of interest to listen to those who contribute for our pleasure and passion to maintaining the magic of timepiece creation.

The first chapter of this series of interviews is dedicated to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history, through the encounter of an expert, Marc-Andre STRAHM, and a historian, Sebastian VIVAS, complementing each other, and both working at the Heritage Department.





Q1: Could you please tell us your personal journey, and tell us in what conditions and why you both ended up working for Jaeger-LeCoultre?

Answer from M.A.S:

I spent the first 12 years building on three different experiences: studying at the "Technicum" in La Chaux de Fonds first, then learning precision mechanics, and finally working in a watch shop doing the servicing.

I then decided to open my own haut de gamme vintage clock and watches restoration shop and it occupied me for thirteen years.

In the last two and a half years I’ve worked as the vintage horology expert for Jaeger-LeCoultre. I’ve simply answered newspaper advertising from the Manufacture.

Answer from SV:

I have a University degree course in literature and history. I’ve then begun as a University of Neuchatel assistant. Unlike Marc-Andre I’m not a watchmaker, neither a technician

I’ve worked with the “Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie” on my study thesis and this work ended up in a publication titled “L’Ancre et la Plume”.

Imprinted with horology I spontaneously applied for a work at Jaeger-LeCoultre and I work as a historian in the Heritage department since 2001. We have an endless work!

Our department works in close partnership with many other JLC departments.

Recently we have worked on the book « La Grande Maison”, on the conception and realisation of the Heritage Gallery, on several communication subject and several other events.



Q 2: What is your connection with Vintages?

Answer from M.A.S:

I rarely wear modern watches. I have no special pleasure with those by the way.
Vintage is my field.
I’ve lived around vintage stuff for thirty years on the horology side as on the furniture or car side (note from writer: MAS drives an old Range Rover)

Answer from SV:

Personally I make no distinction between past and present time. Let me explain:

New watches often represent a fusion between past, present time and future.
Let’s take the Amvox1 case.
This watch brings back a Polaris case, shows the esthetical codes of the twenties cars’ dashboards and the calibre is built on an old base, perfected and perfectly contemporary.
So there’s no gap between past, present and future.



Q3: What is your favourite vintage and why?

Answer from MAS:

I’ve always liked JLC. I particularly appreciate the Reverso and the Futurematic.
If I had to decide of my three favourites they would be:
1/ The Polaris I’m wearing right now (note from writer, MAS wears a 1965 Polaris)
2/ The 1938 Reverso, first series in steel, men’s size.
3/ The 1958 Geophysic.

Answer from SV:

I would say the Geophysic. I’ve worn it for years. I like it for its pure style, its history (named after the International Geophysical year, the watch is presented to the US submarine Nautilus captain, later linked with the North Pole) and its rarity.
The Memovox comes next.

Q4: What is the vintage you’d like to see re-edited?

Answer from MAS:

The watch I love, the Polaris in the 1965 version with applied indexes (note from writer: we understand you...LOL).
The 1968 version (note from writer: with painted dial) is very nice too.
I would then see the 1959 Deep Sea ref E 857 and the Geophysic, but both in a larger case.
What to say about the Futurematic!

A re-edition brings the light on the vintage object in my opinion. I see the principle of re-editing as a very positive move as long as this phenomenon doesn’t become too common.

Answer from SV:

A gem set Duoplan in steel in the purest art deco style and some ultra thin models if there’s an expected market.

Géophysic:



Future Matic: ( Sorry, don't know who to credit )



Memovox Deep Sea 1959 Ref E 857:



Polaris Prototype 1965:



A nice set of Reversos:



Q: Talking about the Polaris, there’s a controversial discussion about the so-called Calypso hands...What can you say about this?



Answer from SV:

The person who has been managing the spare parts stock for forty years (!!!) is sure to have seen these hands at the time. I don’t see what the discussion is!

Q: What about the « Polaris » name as we know that it is not the official name of the watch?

Answer from SV:

There are several theories but none can be definitely considered as the right one so far
The name can be linked to the missile project sharing the same name, a name that was very popular at that time in the States.
The Polaris name was used only on the American market and not in Europe .
Commandant Cousteau also popularized the undersea world at that time.

Q5: JLC and the collectors:

- Do you have the spare parts for the service or restoration of old or even very old watches, such as glasses, calibres, hands, les dial, etc...?

Answer from MAS:

The rule is the following:

For a recent watch the service department can repair, service, or restore without any problem.
A more than 30 years old watch can be serviced by a specialized watchmaker or even restored extensively if necessary.

JLC can eventually remake old parts but this is considered as possible only when the watch has a value that exceeds and justifies the high cost induced by the operation.

However we still have in stock some parts like some hands or calibres for some watches like the 1931 Reverso models.

Dials are let untouched if in acceptable state, if not they are preferably restored than replaced.

We are currently wondering if we should remake some Deep Sea bezels.

-How long takes a vintage piece restoration?

Answer from MAS:

Between 6 and 12 months, closer to 12 than 6 by the way…

- How many pieces are present in the archives? Can JLC track down a specific piece?

Answer from MAS:

Nearly all but we can’t state 100%. Furthermore the information we have is more or less exhaustive depending on the models.

Answer from MAS and SV:

We take the opportunity to answer about what has been written sometimes over the internet regarding the authenticity of some vintage models pictured in the press kits. For instance the picture of the 1931 Reverso and specially its hands:



This type of hands has probably existed at this time even if we can’t prove that so far. It was quite probably on Reverso models with a Tavannes calibre (the first calibre used in the Reverso).

Recently we were close to changing the hands on a 1934 Reverso model as we had doubts about their authenticity and we found an old Hermes catalog right in time. The catalog was showing the debated hands.

- How do you see the Heritage Gallery?



Answer from SV:

This space is and will be permanently alive. It won’t stop evoluting and integrating new pieces.
For instance the first waterproof watch from Jaeger-LeCoultre from 1939 just arrived.
We hope to get and show someday a Chronometer signed Edmond Jaeger.

Q 6: Let’s talk about the diverse publications on JLC. The book “La Grande Maison” is a very beautiful presentation of the Manufacture and the brand but is a generalist book. The Reverso book from 1991 “La Legende Vivante” is no more up to date as it doesn’t integrate all the magnificent models launched since that time, and is not available anymore. The book from Jean Lebet dedicated to the Atmos is a rare bird too and is old now. Consequently JLC collectors and fans lack a reference book on vintage watches and calibres. Is it a subject you’re working on?



Answer from MAS :

" La Grande Maison " is a reference book.
We agree on the interest on such a new vintage and calibre reference book but there are other projects at the time being, making this impossible for now.
We must add that the archives are so huge that their study takes a very long time.
However the publication of a book on vintage watches would be in the air!

Q7: Taking into account the saying: «To know better the past to better understand the present, and to better foresee the future", how do you see JLC’s future?

Answer from SV:

We are on our side focussed on the past. If you look at the long term history of JLC, starting from 1833 you’ll go from the pinion cutting tools invention to the full integration of all the watch making activities.
There is still a huge potential at all levels and we have the means to realize extraordinary stuff.
To be concrete the historians have a certain role to play in the creation of some new products.
Take the case of the Duometre. JLC has taken into account the opinion of the historians on the respect of the watch making tradition and on the design of the calibre.

Answer from MAS:

We can’t make history say everything….We have to think considering the tools they had, and we can only admire what the watchmakers have been able to do with the tools they had!

.............................
We wish to thank you both for taking the time to answer our questions.
We wish both of you and the JLC teams a great success and a bright future!

Dje and Amanico, for " www.PuristsPro.com ". This message has been edited by amanico on 2008-04-02 00:27:26