small-luxury-world
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De Bethune - before looking at the novelties ...
Magnus & Oliver decided to visit their (new) boutique in Geneva.
The visit was not planned in advance, but circumstances at SIHH gave us some extra time.
I
hope from the following pictures you can imagine our pleasure - it was a
feast for the eyes and the perfect preparation for our appointment to
see their novelties the coming day.
For such a small brand/boutique there have been quite a few watches on display and we took pictures of some of our favorites.
The DB 25 collection is one of them and we would like to start with the DB25WS3 :
The case is well made and shows lots of De Bethune DNA. Just look at the lugs, the horns (from the early days) are still there.
The back shows the
calibre DB 2024, a mechanical self-winding movement with its unique
(unique for De Bethune) triple pare-chute.
The latter protects the heart of the movement thanks to a titanium bridge secured by a spring-based system.
The first time I tried it on my (Oliver) wrist was at a PuristS GTG in 2009 - still have the picture on my iPhone 
Still
think it is a modern and very special watch, even when it is some years
old now. The blued titanium microlight dial shows some great details
and depending on the light it looks quite different, but always beautiful.
Magnus:
Let
me chime in here. For starters, this is an easy one for me. Blue is my
absolute favourite colour, not only when it comes to watches (well,
watch dials). Blue is a universal colour but far from boring and mundane.
With the DB25WS3 De
Bethune created quite an outstanding watch in many regards. It is a
watch that exemplifies watchmaking coherence throughout the timepiece.
Movement construction, design and finishing match with the outer
appearance of the watch. Do you think the word thoroughbred is adequate?
I guess so!
Here
we have remarkable unique construction as far as automatic movements
are concerned. This uniqueness however displays a rare internal logic of
its constituents. Nothing here gives the impression of difference
implemented for the sake of difference. In contrast, the pieces displays
the product of intense knowledge and thinking.
This
also applies to the dial and the case. The mastery of all three
dimensions is a characteristic De Bethune developed around the time they
introduced their first movement with the heart-shaped main plate (and
the DB15 watch). The company developed a distinctive style that
emphasises both surface and depth.
The latter is already well demonstrated by the images above. Thus I'd like to highlight the casework:
Isn't that sexy ? I mean, there is a small manufacture which developed an extraordinary and immensely fascinating basic mechanism, and it manages to wrap it in a case that practically serves it up on a silver plate. These delicate lugs, like subtle handles to carefully carry the royal load just like on a palanquin... The whole case makes me want to caress it without break in order to experiences its tactile qualities... I better stop here!
And strap it on:
Even
better - this is just made for me! nothing, really nothing is in the
way between me, the watch and my pleasure of wearing it. Not technical
or aesthetic gripe, no fatigue. Just pure joy!
DB25LRSIVI
The same case as before, but with a more classical silver-toned hand-guilloché dial and an additional (almost mesmerizing) moon.
On the back is the calibre DB 2105 a mechanical hand-wound movement with 6 days power reserve shown.
Also you can see the back of the leather strap, which looks great and feels just so smooth. For sure it is not a bargain (as well), but it feels perfect.
Perfect on the wrist ...
... and a pleasure to look at.
Magnus:
Also
an extraordinary piece, but for me the DB25S3 wins. The more technical
dial of the latter is just the icing on the cake in combination with
this - for De Bethune - rather classical case design. I would have,
however, a hard time to choose between the automatic vs. the handwound
movement...
DB25LWS3V2
Most of you know that watch from our fellow Purist - Mo. Nonetheless it is worth to look at it again and again. Isn´t it?
Magnus:
Most of you know that watch from our fellow Purist - Mo. Nonetheless it is worth to look at it again and again. Isn´t it?
Magnus:
For
me a watch for specific moments. For private pleasure, while listening
to music or enjoying art. I do not see this on my wrist while working.
Or during meeting with friends. I would be too egoistic to share the
joy. Here again the colour makes a real difference, as the hand-blued
dial has its own depth and such does not need the vertical
differentiation of the DB25S3.
If I had to choose... honestly, I could not predict the outcome!
DB27 TitanHawk Silver
An 'entry level' offering that cuts no corners in terms of technology and design. Once more the company has demonstrated its understanding of levels. A look at the dial, imagine how tightly the months hand sits on the dial surface, and how dynamically the hours and minutes hands seem to jump out of the centre basin.
It is a really everyday watch, ultra-light with case and lugs made of fully-polished titanium:
A real feast here are the optically extraordinary but on the other hand extremely functional and comfortable case. The floating lugs are another example on how carefully De Bethune thinks about space. They allow the watch to assume the shape of the wrist (look how perfectly the lower rim of the lugs reflects the curvature of my wrist). This is functional aesthetics!
Wearing it the idea of a pocket watch converted to the wristwatch comes to mind. The winding crown at 12, and the lugs which seem separate but well integrated (if this is understandable). For me the most discrete way to wear a De Bethune (and I mean not only to the public, but also to the wearer him- respectively herself.
A quite dynamic watch, and one that certainly withstands many tough situations. Probably a true companion for life! Is there more to ask?
Stay tuned, there will be more to see from ...
... those very passionated people at De Bethune
Oliver & Magnus
... those very passionated people at De Bethune
Oliver & Magnus
This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2013-02-06 13:29:18
De Bethune - before looking at the novelties ...
Magnus & Oliver decided to visit their (new) boutique in Geneva. The visit was not planned in advance, but circumstances at SIHH gave us some extra time. I hope from the following pictures you can imagine our pleasure - it was a feast for the eyes and...
What more to add....
You guys put on a show,the elegance and beauty of the picture and the passionate text are just pure melody to my eyes and ears. My fav must be the pic of the DB 25 automatic,the watch that made me fall in love with De Bethune,a watch that after years is s...
Mo, I think we shared ...
that first moment with De Bethune ... "home game" for you ... ... good news, they improved their straps ... attention to the details! :-) Cheers, Oliver ...
Oh Yes..
we were there together.... DB straps are veery good ,especially with the double sided croc....the only thing is that i would welcome more daring colours... Mo
Amazing watches and....
an amazing report. Thanks Oliver & Magnus. Do you know if I can find the guys also in Basel this year? It will be a great moment to see this watches in real. wow... stere
Hi stere ...
yes they will be in Basel as well. Stay tuned at the moment we are working on the next De Bethune post. Gruß, Oliver
Besten Dank!
So I will make an appointment for my visit this year. I'm greatly looking forward! stere
Thanks, Ed.
It is next to the FP Journe boutique and opposite of John Lobb. Hope that helps :-) Cheers, Oliver
Your report taste like paradize folks!
As Mo said, I felt in love with the brand because of one watch. But in my case it is the DB25 style design, generally speaking, not one version in particular. The lugs, the crown, the case ... I like them all, Mo's starysky, the QP, the tourbillon, the po...
"in my case it is the DB25 style design, generally speaking, not one version in particular
Mark, once more I feel like you :-) Thanks for your kind words and by the way it is Magnus and not Marcus. Cheers, Oliver
lol
sorry for Magnus! People call me Marcu sometimes so I made a little confusion as it was also late at night :p Cheers, Mark
Loved your pics!
This brand is start to slowly grow on me. Do you have pics of the skybridge or db27 with other dials? Never took interest in that brand before, so weird, how all of a sudden i start to find them really nice. Thanks for the great post.
This is our Pre-SIHH review, new NEWS will come...
next week (time permitting)! Glad you liked it! Indeed, my own feeling regarding De Bethune was not an instant love affair, but benevolence and interest from the start, cultivated over a long time and then suddenly wooosh! and you're done. I think this is...
When your cooking, you gotta taste what you are cooking...
... before serving it us... and woooosh :) Actually, i agree with you when you say that its brand that needs to be understood. Like most brands actually, except that in some there is nothing to be understand. Beside that, the esthetics is very important f...
Fricks, especially for you ...
But now I have to take care of my day job :-) Cheers, Oliver ...
Thank Oliver!
I have to say De Bethune is (and most deservingly) one of the most loved brands here! Look at their amazing range... the amount of talent they have is ridiculous! Every year they come up with something that make our hearts flutter!
Fantastic timepieces. Love them.
The DB25WS3 is my fav from your post, both sides look stunning, specially the movement view. Thanks for sharing with us, Oliver. Vte :)