Independents
Small-luxury-world offers an in-depth look at the De Bethune DB27 collection, presented at Geneva 2013. This post explores how the DB27, introduced for the manufacture's 10th anniversary, aims to deliver a comprehensive De Bethune experience at a relatively more accessible price point, integrating key chronometric and design elements.
"The dial is wonderfully sculptured and three-dimensional. It certainly exudes the class of vintage pocketwatches of the likes of a Breguet or Leroy. The central date hand reminds of a geographical instrument, a sextant for example."
DB28 Skybridge
Probably the most spectacular and discussed novelty shown was the DB28 Skybridge. As a member of the DB 28 Collection it has their familiar case and the movement (caliber DB 2105; hand-wound, 6 days power reserve) is not new as well. So why is it spectacular for so many people? Well, because of the mesmerizing blued mirror polished dial with the skybridge and the white gold and diamond stars. Some may say we have seen something similar before (Only Watch 2011). That is true, but “the style” of the latest one is stronger than ever before and it feels like you can get lost looking at the dial only.
The new watch shows five innovations and registered patents from De Bethune:
· Self-regulating twin barrel
· Silicon/palladium balance wheel – balance-spring with flat end curve
· Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system
· Spherical moon-phase indication
- Silicon escape wheel
·
… at the blue dial first.
The concave shape of the dial with the 12 polished steel
spherical hour markers, the upward pointing titanium bridge
and the stars (white
gold or diamonds) from the night sky brings out the depth of the dial and the strong
blue color very well.
With that kind of surrounding the moon is not that
spectacular any more, but the icing on the cake.
It´s like a piece of art, isn´t it?
As mentioned above, the case and its iconic lugs are known and nothing is wrong with that.
With all those attention on the dial, what goes on at the back side?
The
movement is not new but shows some new blue details as well. Of course
therefore a transparent back is needed
for appreciating the latter. Especially
the blue (steel?) bridge is very tempting and helps to get a fair amount of
attention
when the watch is not on the wrist.
On the wrist it feels as comfortable as all their family members with that kind of skeletonized floating lugs.
DB28
- the simple one without tourbillon should be
already known very well. It was awarded at the Grand Prix d´Horlogerie
de Genéve in 2011, a lot was written about
afterwards and there are also quite a few proud owners here at PuristS.
De
Bethune did more than one version e.g. DB28TiS8,
DB28TiS8 “Special Edition”, DB28RS5B,
DB28TiS5B ….
Somehow it is a (or
shall we say THE current) showcase for their (impressive amount of)
innovations.
Without further introduction here we go with the latest one:
DB28TiS8
De
Bethune presented us this limited version of the DB28TiS8 (50 pieces). At first
sight we thought this is an existing
watch. It carries (almost) all the looks
of the special edition 'Aiguille d'Or' like a case made of matte Grade 5
titanium,
the black movement plates and the mirror-polished central plate...
The
minute hand lacks the red gold insert and the allover black case and lugs
remind us to another version the “Special
Edition” with anthracite zirconium
floating lugs. Some changed details but we think it complements the watch well.
Different to most pieces from the current DB28 collection you will find a display back. The back sight is dominated by
The remaining autonomy is indicated by a gauge on the back. But this is not the only power reserve indication...
If
you pay attention you will find a second one on the dial precisely between the
2 and the 3 o'clock indications
(note the tiny pointer!). This time the indicators
(up & down) are both in red – surprisingly.
Like
all DB28 watches also this one has floating lugs who's end pieces carry the
characteristic ogival lugs
(that's how they used to call them, now they use the
word 'conical', but we like to older designation better
- its more special - as
are the watches!), here in matt anthracite zirconium:
De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28
The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.
The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.
Conclusions De Bethune still feels like a Think Tank with associated production skills extraordinaire, but these days we see more smart evolutions instead of a “revolution” every day. In times when nobody really needs a mechanical watch (and especially not in this price range), it is great to have a company that allows you to dream and that´s what they do best – at least to us. Their strengths are that they clearly seem to have a vision, a strong DNA shown in all of their products and lots of pa
That´s what we saw at De Bethune in Geneva this year, beautiful watches inside the hotel and a drop dead gorgeous car in front of the hotel. Nothing was mentioned about De Bethune on the car (at least not from ou tside) , but it was not that difficult to see if you know the people from De Bethune. Daydreaming – after so much toy´s it is easy to do, isn´t it? Take one of those marvelous watches and put it on your wrist. Next thing to do is to go to your sports car parking outside, with a big smil
Did anyone obtain any further info on these developments from De Bethune? Hope to see a Resonique piece soon.... nothing on their website about this? Will we see some further magic at Baselworld that was not at SIHH? ;)
I already had tenth of pics of the skybridge. Now i am adding yours and the beauty is that none look the same! The whole collection is great but i would buy db27 and skybridge
Where to start, well first of all from the huge compliments and admiration for your exceptional(once more)presentation. The sheer quality of your pictures and the superb write up are to be saved in any watch fanatic library for future references,just outstanding. You couldn t sum up De Bethune spirit,dan and intents better than i said many many times before,there is something magic about DB and something some reasons De Bethune give a great deal of reassurance of a solid monolithic independent
As I said for the 1st part, I thank you for your work and shedding light on this brand's beauties. Your opinions are worthy and help understand DB's aim. Indeed, I mentioned this silicon balance wheel outer ring's new aspect and I noticed in this 2nd part that other models have been equiped with it too: it could be interesting one day to know why this change (I noticed Paladium instead of Platinum, maybe is it a clue to help explain that). These have been indeed 2 years now of consolidation, ori
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