De Bethune SIHH Novelties: Skybridge and DB28

moc · 2013-01-29T04:28:02Z

Explore De Bethune's SIHH novelties, including the Skybridge and DB28, with insights into their innovative design, technical prowess, and unique material use.

moc

WPS member · Independents forum

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Moc provides an enthusiastic, yet critical, review of De Bethune's novelties showcased at SIHH, particularly focusing on the groundbreaking Skybridge and various DB28 iterations. His report delves into the brand's design philosophy, technical innovations, and the emotional connection collectors form with these independent creations.

Its very difficult to be objective about a brand when you are so biased like myself towards De Bethune. I see other people being totally non-objective when they talk about their hero-brand and I would hate myself for being that way. I try to look at De Bethune watches,then digest them,go away,compare them,relook again and so on;passion and love comes and sometimes, if it doesn t have gravity and content, it goes as fast as it came. Well,as you might assume,this is not the case between me and DeBethune.

I just choose a few samples from the hyper prolific (for a 400 watches a year production independent)line up,to prove my point.

As I stated many times before ,with DB there are no corners cut,every aspect of their production is obsessively looked after:

1)DESIGN:amongst the most groundbreaking designs in modern watchmaking,a stye recognisable at a glance,but never for the sake of it,every watch case and design is a one thing with the calibers inside. Its a controversial point,DB look is not for everybody ,either you love it or hate it ,but you will not be indifferent to it,a sign of great personality in todays panorama that can be boring and redundant at times.

2)QUALITY AND BEAUTY OF THE CALIBERS:with countless patent innovations filed,De Bethune is always ahead of the game(use of silicium,fastest tourbillon,lightest tourbillon cage,triple parachute ,innovative balance springs etc etc)and never scared to put their attributes on the table ,without being contempt about the successes obtained. De Bethune is a neverending productive machine on both sides(sometimes a bit too much).

First of all I pick the most innovative and breathtaking novelty from this year,the SKYBRIDGE.

The path taken years ago with celestial creations ,reached the pinnacle this year.This watch is spectacular,the concave dial gives such a sense of depth that makes your heart skip a beat. The inside hourmarkers seem suspended just like satellite around a planet. Anew caliber was necessary(almost every new model has a new caliber in DB)due to the fact that the concave dial took some space away from inside the case. The hands are a work of art themselves...a pure sci-fi beauty,with its vertical element taht really seem to cut the universe in 2 ,like a gate to a parallel one.

Then ,more renditions of what became a classic now in De Bethune collection: the DB 28. First a stunning Rose gold tourbillon version with zirconium lugs.This is a combo to die for,one of my favourite.Zirconium is a magic material,only the live experience will make anyone appreciate its sheer slickness . I must admit that this version makes me think a lot.....just sublime.

Then some black version.I have some reservations here,especially because I am not a big fan of"all black"type of watches,I grew out of them,and i see them as a trend that will pass. I must say though that De Bethune took the "black"approach in a completely different way:no pvd,no dlc,or any other black treatment,but the whole case is made of oxidised zirconium,like the lugs,in a shiny or matt finish. A big sign of maturity and,no-bulls..t,again no corners cut or spray-on(nothing wrong with that)treatment,but a different,more exclusive,"real" solution for an all black watch.Chapeau!!

Tourbillon first...

Fantastic black moon....

Next a fantastic watch that belong to the Olympus of the dream watches:inspired by the magnificent DB15 perpetual calendar(one of my all time fav from the brand),then equipped with a dead second tourbillon at the back. The result is stunning,and understated for this quartz looking

watch!! I really love the guillochet pattern,similar to the early versions of the DB15.The case is so sensual and smooth,a watch that requires huge attributes to acquire,it would be easy to go for a more conservative brand at this level of price ,but,if I could afford it......I wuldn t think twice.

Last a series of variations on the "entry level"(diminishing term for a De Bethune!!)DB27 Titan Hawk.Even if the least expensive ,still with many DB signature features(silicon balance wheel,finish of the case to die for ,etc,etc,,). Different dials for the same watch,a truly stunning outcome!!Last year I was left a bit cold by the regular silver dial version....

But this year... Black

Stunning blue,exclusive for the russian "Mercury"......just so yummy

AND......my absolute favourite,a salmon dial with blue numerals and hands...I couldn t take my eyes off it...Am I in trouble?YES YES YES...look at this beauty!A bit 1950's,a touch of sic-fi,De Bethune quality...whats not to like?? I must say the most pleasing to my eyes.....of the whole collection.

The 4 beauties together.....

Thats it,I hope I made my case clear. De Bethune remains my favourite independent brand,another stellar year.

Yours,Mo

This message has been edited by moc on 2013-01-29 04:31:33

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Skybridge is highlighted as the most innovative and breathtaking novelty, praised for its concave dial creating a sense of depth and its unique, sci-fi inspired hands.
De Bethune's commitment to quality and innovation is emphasized, noting their prolific patent filings, use of advanced materials like silicium, and continuous development of new calibers for almost every new model.
The DB28 in rose gold with zirconium lugs is lauded as a sublime combination, showcasing the magic and slickness of zirconium as a material.
De Bethune's 'all black' watches are distinguished by their use of oxidized zirconium for the entire case, rather than PVD or DLC coatings, signifying a more exclusive and mature approach to black finishes.
The salmon-dialed Titan Hawk is described as a 'nightmare' for collectors due to its sublime aesthetic, achieved by laminating the dial in gold, making it a highly desirable piece.
A collector, initially indifferent to De Bethune, expresses being won over by the report's passion and the brand's design coherence, originality, technicality, and quality, prompting a decision to visit their Geneva boutique.

The Discussion

cisco

Jan 29, 2013

De Béthune hates You, you have a magnificent DB and look at what they release this year... This Skybridge coming from another galaxy , I don't know what to say about this one. On photo I was rarely so impressed by a watch. I was many times impressed but that much... wow, and then the DB27 terrific in salmon and also in this petrol blue imho. I do not envy you this time Mo, you are so much in trouble :D thanks for sharing, photos of the skybridge from you and FX hammers my head. cheers Francois

Hulk

Jan 29, 2013

The new db 28 versions really look special in the all black. But the tourbillon dial for me has too much of a Star Trek look in the centre. Whereas the moon or the Aiguille de Or version is much better proportioned. Anyhow, I would not say no to it if it was offered to me. Thanks for the pics and thoughts Cheers Steve

TdotBean

Jan 29, 2013

I'm just about dead after reading your post. The salmon hawk:) is going to be my nightmare of 2013. Just when I thought there's no surprise on this year SIHH ... I was prepare for the blue hawk but this sublime salmon dial with the blue hand to me is the best of both world. Fantastic work from De Bethune. PS Do you know how DB achieve the pink color? Regard Tyler

moc

Jan 30, 2013

Hard to resist... Mo

moc

Jan 30, 2013

Or just hope never to see one in Metal......They are really stunning. Lets see at the end of the year when we will do or annual yearly report. thank you for chiming in. Mo

moc

Jan 30, 2013

the regular "moon "version is better to me,that little detail complement the watch so much,that is how it was conceived ,so its hard to beat the original version. Some element of the Tourbillon version are super nice though ,like the polished bridges and the rehaut. Thank you Mo

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De Bethune SIHH Novelties: Skybridge and DB28

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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