De Bethune DB28Z: First Impressions Review

mrds · 2021-01-30T08:59:31Z

Explore the De Bethune DB28Z with mrds's first impressions. Discover its Zirconium case, floating lugs, and innovative dial in this collector's review.

mrds

WPS member · Independents forum

31 replies3741 views12 photos

In this insightful review, mrds shares his long-awaited acquisition of the De Bethune DB28Z, a watch he has admired for 15 years. His detailed impressions offer a unique perspective on how the DB28 embodies De Bethune's core principles of innovation, bold design, and exceptional craftsmanship. This article delves into the specific design elements and technical features that make the DB28Z a standout piece in independent horology.

I still remember the day in 2005 when De Bethune released the DBS. The moment I saw it, I knew I wanted it. It was well beyond my financial means and so it remained a dream, but a dream that kept alive over the years and that let me admire De Bethune's watches for what have been 15 years. When 2010 the DB28 that came out, the itch to have one only got more intense. To me it unites all that De Bethune stands for - innovative movements, bold design, new materials and exection to the highest standards - in one irresistible package. Alas, another 10 years passed, but when late last year this beauty came on auction my moment finally came.

After 4 days now with the DB28Z, it's time to share my impressions.

Design

One of the reasons I am so drawn to De Bethune's creations is the design. This watch is not elegant in a tradional sense. It is more a futuristic machine with the esthetics of a stealth fighter jet. Yet at the same time it feels like a jewel. Its surfaces are excuisite, it glows in the light.

Although there's a lot of complexity in the case, the dial, etc. the overall design is very coherent and well executed.

Case

The case is made of Zirconium, a matte dark-grey ceramic material. It's lightweight, very hard and scratch-resistant. It is also used for the lugs, crown and buckle. The case is

The signature feature of the DB28 case is the floating lugs, which are attached to the case at the 3 and 9 positions. Despite the large 42.6mm case, this design lets the watch sit snugly and comfortably on the wrist. The lugs are available in short and long versions to fit the wearer's wrist size.

The lugs take up a design cue from DB's early "torpedo lugs" watches. This is just one example of the overall no-efforts-spared approach that makes this DB such an outstanding time machine.

Dial

This is the real deal! Partially open to reveal the pulsating balance spring and glimpses of the movement, the he front side of the DB28 is immensly captivating.The main part of the dial is finished in traditional Côtes-de-Genève stripes, which render light in a fantastic way. On top of that is a black, mirror polished triangular plate that is one of De Bethune's signature elements. The hour markers are mirror-polished 3D white gold balls surrounded by a shaped chapter ring sporting the minute track. At 6 o'clock sits the 3D moon phase De Bethune introduced with the DBS 15 years ago.

The complex construction of the dial gives lots of visual pleasure. In one moment it's all a calm black background, with a slight turn of the wrist light plays around on the Côtes-de-Genève stripes and the pulsating balance spring catches the eye.

Movement

De Bethune has always been about innovation in their movements. Much has been written on their development of silicon for the balance and regulator, so I won't go into more details here. What I love on the DB28Z version is that you're actually able to see the movement; the original titanium version had a solid Ti caseback with only a small opening for the power reserve indicator. In my view, this movement is definitely too beautiful to hide. The contrast between the black baseplates and bridges with the golden gears and PR indicator is a sight I wouldn't want to miss.

Like the dial, it changes its character under different lighting from a stealthy black to an unexpected brilliance, reflecting light in abundance and showing off the immaculate movement finishing.

The manual-wind inhouse cal. 2115 operates at 28800 vph and has a 6 day power reserve.

Conclusion

Thank you for bearing with me through this review. As you probably sensed from my words, I couldn't be happier. The DB28 is not the most complicated watch or the most novel. It is, however, one that unites highest quality, design, innovation and excuisite craftmanship in a way that I've not seen in any other watch, on this level.

Thanks for looking!

Best,

Daniel

About the De Bethune DB28 Ref. DB28

De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28

The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.

The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.

This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2115

Case: Titanium

Diameter: 42.6 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The enduring appeal of De Bethune watches often begins with an in-person encounter, solidifying a long-term appreciation for the brand's unique aesthetic and craftsmanship.
De Bethune's finishing style, particularly their Côtes-de-Genève stripes, is noted for its broader strokes, contributing to the brand's distinctive visual identity.
Despite its 42.6mm case size, the De Bethune DB28, especially with short floating lugs, is surprisingly wearable on smaller wrists, a testament to its ergonomic design.
The DB28's design, despite being over a decade old, maintains a strikingly modern and futuristic appearance, which contributes to its lasting desirability among collectors.
Achieving a long-term dream watch like the De Bethune DB28 significantly amplifies the pleasure of ownership, making the wait worthwhile.

The Discussion

Gwai

Jan 30, 2021

Thank you for sharing your passion for this extraordinary watch. Cheers Marc

mtvandi

Jan 30, 2021

Quite innovative and really nicely made. Enjoy!

mrds

Jan 30, 2021

Tried my best with the iPhone. Mixed results but I‘m happy I could convey the qualities of the DB.

Watchonthewrist

Jan 30, 2021

Like you my love for the brand started many years ago. The moment i saw a DB in person it was love at first side. A few years ago i was able to purchase my first , a DB27 and two years I was lucky to add a early DB10 . Hope you will enjoy your amazing DB28 as much as I enjoy them 🤗

piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1)

Jan 30, 2021

Your photos are great, some macro shots are stunning. I've always loved DB like you and many others, but it's still beyond my means, though I'm truly happy when a long term aficionado achieve his dream. Now there's only one question, what's next?

Gwai

Jan 30, 2021

"futuristic machine." That's exactly what it is. Cheers Marc

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