patrick_y
[PuristSPro Moderator]
29775
Something Unusual About The Caliber BVL 138 and its Jewels, Introducing Spacer Jewels
WOW. OUR MEMBERS ARE SUPER EAGLE EYED! I never ceased to be impressed by the readers on WatchProSite! Very impressed.
The Version 1 Caliber BVL 138 has 36 jewels. The Version 2 BVL 138
caliber only has 31 jewels. A funny detail about the V1 caliber is that
many of the jewels aren't traditional pinion jewels. Meaning they
don't hold a gear or a pinion in them. Many of them are actually
"spacer" jewels, meaning that they're there so that way space can be
maintained between the plates (since the watch is so thin)! You'll notice many of these jewels don't have a little hole in the middle where the pinion for a gear would go into. This is
considered to be fairly unusual. It's also considered to be an elegant
technical solution and an expensive solution, as jewels are more expensive than metal spacers, metal spacers can also just be CNC'd in the plate, whereas jewels would likely need to be pressed into the plate by a human. I haven't studied the V2 extensively, but it
appears most of those spacer jewels have been removed. Possibly to cut costs, or to improve the overall movement, or both.
Version 1. Notice the jewels on the top left quadrant, many of them don’t have holes with metal pinions in them. Many of the ones without holes in them are ”spacer jewels" that are there to maintain space between the narrow plates. This is HIGHLY UNUSUAL architecture and not commonly seen nor discussed.
Version 2, notice many of the spacer jewels have been removed compared to the Version 1 movement.
Almost all the jewels present in V2 have metal pinions in them. The rotor also looks a little bigger to me. So it seems like there are multiple changes between V1 and V2.
I will get in contact with our man on the inside at Bulgari and get some more details hopefully. Again, super impressed with the WatchProSite community for noticing this super minute detail. And Tim Mosso is definitely a greatly detailed fella! Without him mentioning it, I might not have noticed for months! Thank you WPS members and Tim Mosso!
Photo credit to Bulgari's website, both of these pics come from Bulgari's website.
Something Unusual About The Caliber BVL 138 and its Jewels, Introducing Spacer Jewels
WOW. OUR MEMBERS ARE SUPER EAGLE EYED! I never ceased to be impressed by the readers on WatchProSite! Very impressed. The Version 1 Caliber BVL 138 has 36 jewels. The Version 2 BVL 138 caliber only has 31 jewels. A funny detail about the V1 caliber is tha...
More changes...
The gold filled engravings are also gone, the new big plate design evokes Panerai rather than the svelte previous version, looks like automatic winding system was adjusted as we previously discussed difficulty to wind to full power, the rotor is certainly...
Agreed! You've got a keen eye!
I wanted to introduce some members to spacer jewels, as not everyone is familiar with spacer jewels in watchmaking as they're somewhat uncommon to be seen with the naked eye. But you took it to the next level! You mentioned many more of the changes!
Fixing the rotor issue?
Mine wouldn’t wind at all and I know a few others with similar issues fyi. Guessing these revisions are to fix it?
Definitely a possibility!
The BVL 138 does have some winding issues. So I wouldn't be surprised if they modified it to make it work a bit better. The new rotor does look larger, which would imply it should work better.
Mine usually lasted for 30h after I worn it for couple of days.
SA at BG boutique said that it is normal and it likely cannot be fully wound from wearing it alone, I thought he was joking, I eventually ended up selling the watch (not for this reason, bought winder).
I see!
It takes 2170 turns in the CW direction, if I recall correctly, to satisfy this watch! Edit: Clockwise, not Counter-clockwise.
Ha
Funnily enough, when I was looking for this information it was nowhere to be found.
I had to ask Bulgari internally.
I too had looked, and it was nowhere to be found. And I just realized I made a mistake. It's CW, not CCW.
Ouch! That’s a really bad watch!
You know somethings definitely broken when it won’t wind!
Great post OP! Yes, some Octos had winding problems (some reported 'jumping seconds') and so that it probably addressed with this movement variant.
Yet why remove the gold-filled lettering and would love to know why a change in the balance wheel? For clarification, a new movement number (??BVL 138a??) is desired to reflect the updated movement. Love my 'old' Octo FS and feel it better presents a fine...
Indeed. We've got an eagle eyed crowd!
I wouldn't be surprised if we were all eagle eyed on a Patek Philippe movement. But on a Bulgari movement! I AM IMPRESSED!
Indeed! At least some of us!
But we seem to be pretty fair. When Montblanc Villeret made a specific steel watch model with that Minerva Villeret movement, I think we had over 20 owners of the 50 watches ever made! And that was already several years ago!
Addition to your clarification request, and a gripe
Hi Patrick, when you inquire with your Bulgari contact, please also ask how the jewels are counted, whether the 36 included the spacers. Aren't only bearing/pivot jewels supposed to be counted? This harks back to the days of yore before rules were tighten...
Will do!
I have a feeling that these "spacer jewels" are indeed counted on this particular model. I'll see what I can find out!
Accuracy is usually designed into the base caliber.
Revisions to a caliber are usually done to address deficiencies realized from real-world situations and reliability. But overall, watch calibers are consistently being designed to become easier to assemble, easier to regulate, easier to service, and gener...
Reminds me of why i walked away from the music BUSINESS years ago.
But that's a whole 'nother can-o-worms.
OH HECK YES!!!! Yet first, i must show gratitude for my very wise, and understanding, Muse.
Patrick, it a mixed story filled with many early 'victories'... and later homelessness of my own making. Today, it brings added appreciation for many 'simple pleasures'... and knowing if a 'reset' happens we'll be fine. Chronometer, as an artist i truly '...
That is impressive my friend! Thanks for taking the time to share. Your story regarding your “muse” is very touching. Staying grounded is so important …
I am really happy you her in your life and that you also get to experience several of your passions! Regarding Laine, I am very close to ordering a V38 myself. Such a nice brand
Many thanks, I truly appreciate it. My Muse's custom Laine...
Niiiice, go for it as i think he's booked through the end of this year right now. Was thinking of going with a custom Tux dial, but as my Muse and I were looking at his Instagram page she instantly fell in love with this below combo, so she won this round...
Wow! That's confidence right there. And a very special outlook on life!
You must have an incredibly loving family whom you know will be supportive no matter what happens! Good for you! You are an incredibly fortunate man!
It seems less finished
The first edition had better anglage, cote de Geneve, chamfered screw slots, gold lettering, gold balance wheel, more shape to plates and Canon wheel, escapement is visible. All and all a big decrease in finishing. This as novice looking plainly. -kevin
Looks that way from the photos.
Hard to say without seeing it. The Cote de Geneve I do believe is machine applied. The gold lettering might not be gold plating, but just a brass movement showing through, and they covered that area with a gel before rhodium plating the movement. I'm not ...
